Re: humidity and gum coating
"The paper will be more easily coated if it is immersed in water and
blotted before being placed on the board."
Neblette, "Photography,its principles and practice", London 1927
Surely, people have tried this before.
Me too. Madrid, where I live, is very dry, so I have tried all kind of
tricks to make coating easier. Wetting the paper works with some papers
but with others you get irregular spots. What I do now is simply to add
water in the mixture.
Katharine Thayer wrote:
Chris, this makes me wonder if anyone has ever tried humidifying paper
for gum coating, to make the coating easier in dry climates. The reason
I'm wondering this is that my humidity, ordinarily >90%, has been way
down for the last couple of days (17% yesterday afternoon) and I was
having a heck of a time getting a smooth coat with my usual straight gum
(no added water) mix. I decided that if this keeps up (unlikely) I'll
need to start adding water to the mix, but your troubles with palladium
gave me to wonder if anyone has reported humidifying the paper to make
the coating easier. I do know that I once coated and printed on wet
paper, just to see if it could be done, and it coated beautifully and
printed fairly well, except for a sort of mottled effect in the
background. Here's the test print I posted at the time:
At any rate, that combined with your explorations around palladium have
led me to musing about whether humidifying might give a better result.
On Sep 1, 2006, at 10:10 PM, Christina Z. Anderson wrote:
Happy Labor Day weekend everyone! It may be a true "labor" weekend
household after all, because my daughter is having her baby in my bathtub
any day (or hour) now. Hmmm...that sounds strange....we do have
in MT....ohhhh, never mind...
At least I got somewhere today with the bleeding issue. My Platine
came in and I was ever so excited to see if the new batch would be
and not bleed. Alas...it still bled like crazy.
SO, it helped that Mark Nelson said that at the Formulary (also in
MT--similar humidity) they had to do two things to get good prints on Cot
320 this summer: humidify 30 minutes before coating and 30 minutes
I've watched the humidity all summer and it has hovered around 30%.
I messed around with the humidity and Everclear variables--using
or not, humidifying before and not after coating, humidifying after
before coating, humidifying both before and after. I built myself a
makeshift humidity box with a couple of trays and stuck a gauge in there,
(Of course in the meantime throughout these tests I am racing first to
hardware store for screening and then to the liquor store for my flask of
Everclear...I thought of downing the bottle on my way home.)
What I found was it was most important to humidify after coating, more
important than Everclear or having the paper humidified before. If I
humidified before coating, the paper tone was greyer and duller. If I
humidified after coating, for 30 minutes (70% humidity) while the
drying, there was no bleeding. So it must be as Clay suggested--the
drying too quickly on the paper surface and not sinking in enough. It
so bad on a couple of my test sheets tonight that I could literally
finger, wipe the wet surface of the print, and have black stains on my
fingertip. I was losing quite a bit of density in the print all over,
including highlights, and even had serious staining/bleeding into the
highlight area, too.
So tomorrow I am going to have to develop a new set of curves with this
after-coating humidity factor, and will continue this procedure to see
in fact, the bleeding completely stops. I just have to find someone to
build me a drying/humidity rack, now....
I'm still puzzled, though, why during the last couple years I never
experienced this, and now I do. If someone has a friend at Arches, could
you ask if their paper sizing has changed in the last year?
BTW, that green ink on the Epson 2400 is sure as heck dense.