U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | RE: Liquid Emulsion Questions

RE: Liquid Emulsion Questions

Fujifilm sells its own version of liquid emulsion, and they also sell a
sizing solution for this type of application. The sizing solution, when
I checked last time, was a styrene butadiene latex copolymer. This is an
excellent material to coat under gelatin emulsion (it's also used on
polyester films).

Note also that wood is not an archival material, unless well aged stock
of certain quality is used. Wood used for quality framing supplies is
good, but plywood is probably not.

On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 18:52:07 -0700, "Robert" <rc3@flash.net> said:
> I would suggest you use clear acrylic jesso. It will give tooth for your
> emulsion to stick to. I print gum on birch plywood. The 1.4 may get a
> slight
> warp after three to four soakings. 1/2 will not warp but is heavy. I
> frame
> my work on wood when it on 1/4 inch wood and that makes it flush again.
> The
> 1/2 I do not frame but paint the edges to mach the print.
> Best Regards,
> Robert
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Camden Hardy [mailto:camden@hardyphotography.net] 
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:18 AM
> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> Subject: Re: Liquid Emulsion Questions
> Polyurethane varnish also works pretty well with liquid emulsion.  As
> John
> mentioned, I would recommend coating the entire board to completely seal
> it from the chemistry...that way the wood won't warp.
> Camden Hardy
> camden[at]hardyphotography[dot]net
> http://www.hardyphotography.net
> On Sun, September 24, 2006 10:20 am, John Cremati wrote:
> >           I have coated wood with  thick layers of a diazo  emulsion in
> > the
> > past....... What I did was to apply numerous coats of a  sandable  sanding
> > sealer to the wood sealing it totally....... I only needed it done on the
> > front but from what I can see in your case, you would have to do the
> > entire
> > piece.........  I imagine lacquer or shellac would work as well.... The
> > soak
> > time frame may be limited though depending what you use........... If you
> > do
> > not do this you will get sever warpage  beginning almost immediately even
> > if
> > you just coat the surface......
> >        Is it possible that you just coat  only the front  surface using a
> > brush on method and then create a dam around the peice to devlelope , fix
> > and rinse.....
> >      Also You could build a  recirculating flood system by just drilling
> > small holes over  a length of PVC, caping it at one end and then run a
> > tube
> > to a small pump and well in some sort of tray set up.......This would
> > minimize your chemicals and you could just tape of the back using visquine
> > or cut a piece of plastic plexi and tape that in place......
> > You may also want to look into Sandy King' s method of coating paper for
> > Carbon Printing .
> > John Cremati
> >
> >