Re: solarplate

[Jon Lybrook <jon@terabear.com>]

80% density is the rule of thumb.  Not sure what the standard 
'solarplate' one uses in terms of dpi, but Duane at Copy Graphics in 
Santa Fe would know.  He's who I've been going through for mine. I 
believe the standard screens are something like 300 or 400 dpi...

http://www.copygsf.com/

Any service bureau with an imagesetter should be able to produce these 
kinds of screens, however.

I've been using an 1800 dpi stochastic screen using an Olec exposure 
unit.  I don't recommend it for learning one since there are many more 
technical challenges with using the finer screen -- solid contact 
becomes all the more critical, but I think better results.

Jon

Christina Z. Anderson wrote:
> Thanks for the info, Jon.  How would I have a local printer make an 
> aquatint screen for me, or do they automatically know how?  What 
> specifications would I ask for?
> Chris
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jon Lybrook" <jon@terabear.com>
> To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 9:46 AM
> Subject: Re: solarplate
>
>
> > Thanks Chris,
> >
> > Glad to hear you're working in polymer/solar plate and PDN.  I'll be 
> > eager to hear when you've got more info on that.  Thanks for the info 
> > on printers too.
> >
> > I tried making "aquatint" screens on the 2200 early on.  Partly due 
> > to Peter Elzy's advice and what I saw under a lupe, I found the 
> > screens from an image setter were sharper and more durable.  Those 
> > off the inkjet printer didn't have the hard dot required to get a 
> > nice clean set of dots on the plate to hold the ink.  Careful 
> > handling and the store-bought screens can last a long time.
> >
> > Best wishes,
> > Jon