Re: Re: spots and dots and UVBL solarplates
Jon,
When I first started with Solarplates (Dans stuff) I used NO LUAGHFING 3M for
ink jet and a 1280 printer. It worked now I just don't know. I need to get
more ink on the 3Ms but it is no easy (correction more density). I keep
trying. The KMs are nice I just need to rething things. We will see come July.
Jan (still working) Pietrzak
From: Jon Lybrook <jon@terabear.com>
Date: 2007/04/06 Fri PM 02:39:55 CDT
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: Re: spots and dots and UVBL solarplates
Hi Jan,
Thanks! What printer/media are you using to create your inkjetpositives?
Jon
jpptprnt1@verizon.net wrote: Jon,Lets just call them UV/FL (white in color)
and UV/BLBFL (for black light purple/blue in color). I am not one for letter
but in this case it might work. A friend of mine gave me an Aristo exposure
unit. Which is charged neon type of bulb we will see if it is any differant
(white light not purple/blue).I tried some KM plate exposures and did not get
a good plate the ink jet posative was to thin. Back to square 1. UV/FL
exposure.Thanks to all of you Jon, keith, Susan, Chris not sure who else but
thanks with any luck (and without bad luck, I wouldn't have any) I may have
some prints at APIS.All the bestJan PietrzakFrom: Jon Lybrook &
lt;jon@terabear.com>Date: 2007/04/06 Fri PM 02:04:10 CDTTo: alt-photo-
process-l@usask.caSubject: Re: spots and dots and UVBL solarplatesAnd more
particularly, "UV Blacklight Tubes". Tanning UV Tubes seem to have a better
quality to them for poly plates, from what I've seen. Never seen anyone using
a big unit employing UV Tanning lights though...JonJon Lybrook wrote:
Make that, "UV Tubes"... ;-)JonJon Lybrook wrote: I'm quite
convinced, along with Keith Howard, David Hoptman and others that UV isn't as
good for poly plates as a point source -- Amerigraph, Olec, or our good friend
Apollo. You can get good results, but it is more problematic - especially
when going bigger.Jon