U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: Resinotype Mountain Revisited

Re: Resinotype Mountain Revisited



First:- To make things really easy for those of us who do not have sophisticated electronic scales ( I DO have them ) could you simply state, in level teaspoons, the measures of rosin to pigment powder? I noted that Keith managed, somehow, to get the ammounts reversed.
I use both an electronic scale (0.1g) and a very old scale for document (0.5 g, one of those with a weight near the arm and a quarter of circle scale, once used also for letters, 0-50 g and 0-250 g). So I am not used to measure by volume. The proportion by weight is 4 parts of pigments and 10 parts of rosin. This proportion may be changed adding more pigment if this is weak, but increasing the ratio pigment/rosiny our powder will stain the highlights more.
From my own experiments the following might also help:-
Stick your selected paper to a sheet of slightly roughened acrylic sheet with a solution of warm Gelatine 10gms to 100ml Water (10%) brushed on the back of your paper and smoothed out by hand with an interleaf of cheap paper to prevent soiling. Directly following this the base coating ( the same 10% Gel) may be evenly brushed on and allowed to dry. I have found that all of the subsequent stages, including sensitizing, are much easier to handle. The completed print can be stripped from the acrylic when all stages have been completed.
The first times I coated the paper by immersion, but I ever had problems with tiny air bubbles forming a few moments before the settling of the gelatine :-(
Moreover, I find poorly repeatable this type of coating.
So, I started to pour a known volume of 6% gelatine over my paper. The most important part is to have it over a perfectly leveled plane. Next, you may simply spread the gelatine over with a proper tool. Or use a frame, fixed with pliers, and pour your gelatine inside, etc.
I use a glass cutted slightly wider than my paper, where I deposit my wet paper keeping it with my fingers at the opposite corners, so that there do not form air bubbles. Check for bubbles looking at the read side. Then I wipe off the excess water with an old windscreen wiper staring from the centre, and finish the wiping with a paper towel again starting from the centre.
I look after the air bubbles because they might rise the paper leading to a different level of gelatine.
But all these operations are the same for preparing a carbon tissue or a paper for oil printing...
And are again the same for sensitizing.
In this way, you will also become skilled for other two additional techniques :-)
Alberto