Re: Resinotype Mountain Revisited
First:- To make things really easy for those of us who do not have sophisticated electronic scales ( I DO have them ) could you simply state, in level teaspoons, the measures of rosin to pigment powder? I noted that Keith managed, somehow, to get the ammounts reversed.I use both an electronic scale (0.1g) and a very old scale for document (0.5 g, one of those with a weight near the arm and a quarter of circle scale, once used also for letters, 0-50 g and 0-250 g). So I am not used to measure by volume. The proportion by weight is 4 parts of pigments and 10 parts of rosin. This proportion may be changed adding more pigment if this is weak, but increasing the ratio pigment/rosiny our powder will stain the highlights more. From my own experiments the following might also help:-The first times I coated the paper by immersion, but I ever had problems with tiny air bubbles forming a few moments before the settling of the gelatine :-( Moreover, I find poorly repeatable this type of coating. So, I started to pour a known volume of 6% gelatine over my paper. The most important part is to have it over a perfectly leveled plane. Next, you may simply spread the gelatine over with a proper tool. Or use a frame, fixed with pliers, and pour your gelatine inside, etc. I use a glass cutted slightly wider than my paper, where I deposit my wet paper keeping it with my fingers at the opposite corners, so that there do not form air bubbles. Check for bubbles looking at the read side. Then I wipe off the excess water with an old windscreen wiper staring from the centre, and finish the wiping with a paper towel again starting from the centre. I look after the air bubbles because they might rise the paper leading to a different level of gelatine. But all these operations are the same for preparing a carbon tissue or a paper for oil printing... And are again the same for sensitizing. In this way, you will also become skilled for other two additional techniques :-) Alberto
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