U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: Question for Henk Thijs re: rabbit skin glue

Re: Question for Henk Thijs re: rabbit skin glue

Randi... thanks for letting us know the Liquitex didn't work.  That's something I can
cross off my list of things to try.  Sounds like good old rabbit skin is the way to go.  
How ironic that we're back to the ages-old technique of sizing with r/s in order to
make digital prints.

gravure blog at www.susanvossgravures.blogspot.com
website www.dalyvoss.com

On Thu, Mar 27, 2008 at 9:00 PM, <pulpfic@telus.net> wrote:
At 01:52 PM 3/26/08 -0400, Susan wrote:
Has anyone tried using good-old Liquitex mediums for this purpose?  (surface prep for inkjet printing)  They dry clear and come in matte or gloss finish.

Hi Susan,

I tried out acrylic medium diluted with water 1:10 and the ink beaded up on Arches Aquarelle HP watercolour paper. So I tried diluting the remaining mixture with an equal amount of water. This print had an odd sort of soft-but-bright look to it, but not really acceptable.

The rabbit skin glue coating worked very well on Arches Aquarelle HP; best inkjet print obtained with one coat of glue at Henk's recommended dilution, rather than two coats for this particular paper.

I'll continue using the rabbit skin glue recipe, possible varying the dilution for different papers. The watercolour paper is a lot cheaper than Fine Art inkjet papers.

Take care,

On Wed, Mar 26, 2008 at 5:10 AM, henk thijs <henk.thijs@hetnet.nl> wrote:
Hi Randi,
Just one other thing, after coating, if the paper is not flat, do not try to force the paper in the printer, just tape a stroke of flat paper on the 'leading' site of your print paper.

On 26 mrt 2008, at 1:42, pulpfic@telus.net wrote:
Thanks, Henk, for the detailed instructions!


At 12:10 AM 3/26/08 +0100, Henk Thijs wrote:
Hi Randi,
My process:

15 to 20 grs crystals in 100 ml tapwater;
wait 15 min -like preparing gelatine-;
add another 100 ml water;
heat until 60 to 65 degree Celsius;
down to about 40 degree Celsius (to avoid blistering);
now i cover a tray with hot water with a piece of glas, put the paper on it and coat with a foam brush,
let it dry and coat a second time.

(keep the glue at t40 degrees the whole time you work with it, it is not good to let it down and heat again)


On 25 mrt 2008, at 23:30, pulpfic@telus.net wrote:
Hi Henk,

At 02:33 PM 12/5/07 +0100, you wrote:
that is the reason i mentioned the rabbit glue coating; with the glue it acts like a real inkjet-paper (so one can use all the paper one collected over the years .....:-).

I've purchased the rabbit skin glue (in dry form) to make papers receptive to inkjet printing.

On the package it says 3 tablespoons glue crystals to one quart water (about 45 ml glue crystals to a litre of water), but this is for sizing fabric to paint on; is that a good recipe for coating papers for inkjet? Also, do you coat by dunking paper in a tray, or would you brush the glue onto the paper?

Thanks for your advise, past and future.

Take care,

And for the transparencies .... to coat the clear material is cheaper and if the negative is not ok, just in hot water and you can use it again.
On the other hand if money is not the point why messing around .... :-)



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                                     Ms Randi DeLisle
              bookbinder, publisher, printmaker & photographer
                         pulp fictions & pulp fictions press
        Grand Forks BC  Canada    pulpfic (at) telus.net
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