RE: fogged digital negative?
Hi Greg, If you inter-leave the negatives with plain printing paper this will help absorb the glycols and what not from the substrate. Hope this helps, Don Bryant -----Original Message----- From: Gregg Kemp [mailto:gregg@roanokesound.com] Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 10:30 AM To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca Subject: Re: fogged digital negative? I have been storing my digital negatives in a print box, either right after printing it, or right after making a print with it. So I really haven't been letting them air dry much at all - at least not in any intentional way. I've now reprinted the ones I would like to print with again and have placed them on a shelf in a closet to dry - with the ink side up. I won't be able to do any printing for the next two weeks, so I'll just let them dry out a few days, then put them in sleeves until I have time to print again in a couple of weeks. To be safe, I think I'll let them air dry a bit after printing also, before returning them to their sleeves. Thanks again for all the good information. I hadn't given much thought to the negatives, so this has all helped a lot. Gregg On Apr 14, 2008, at 12:30 AM, Ender100@aol.com wrote: > Gregg, > > My experience is that you can use digital negatives a number of > times until the get scratched or you do something that wrecks them. > I've used them up to 10 times and have not noticed any problem from > the exposure to UV light. > > If I understand correctly you used this negative before and it > sounds like it picked up moisture from the coated paper this time. > Did you notice having to peel the two apart? > > Newly printed negatives will look "frosted" when viewed from the non- > emulsion side until they dry a bit. This is very pronounced right > at first. > > The 2200 inks take much longer to dry than the current inks in the > R2400. As Jon mentioned, you can give the negative a boost in > drying with a hair dryer without damaging it, as long as you keep > the hair dryer moving and don't overheat the negatives. > > For the 2200, I think the negative would cure in a couple of hours > on the original Pictorico and in less time on the Ultra Pictorico. > An R2400 negative on Ultra is cured in about half and hour the the > density remains stable after that. > > The R1800 negatives take quite a while to cure and are prone to > picking up dust during printing and right after. The 2200 and > current inks don't seem to gather dust at all. > > I always let my negatives cure emulsion side up. > > Mark Nelson > Precision Digital Negatives > PDNPrint : Precision Digital Negatives > Mark I. Nelson Photography > In a message dated 4/12/08 3:28:45 PM, gregg@roanokesound.com writes: > > >> I was printing some cyanotypes today and one of my digital negatives >> seems to have "fogged". I've printed with this negative 3-4 times >> before, with fairly consistent results. But today it added a dark >> ring around the print. When I looked at the negative, it looked OK >> on >> the inkjet side, but the other side had a strange, silvery fog to it. >> The effect was to lighten the negative and print out darker around an >> area about 6 inches in diameter. >> >> Is this a normal problem for a digital negative - a short life span? >> Or did I do something wrong - maybe use it too soon after printing >> the >> negative. I don't remember how long I waited before using it to make >> a print. But I've used it several times over several weeks. I'll >> make another negative, but just wanted to check here to see what I >> may >> have done wrong. The negative requires a 9 minute exposure for the >> cyanotype and paper I'm using. I'm printing with a UV lightbox >> that's >> around 26 x 20 inches or so, and about 4 inches from the bulbs. >> >> - Gregg >> > > > > > > > > > > > ************** > It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance. > (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850) Gregg Kemp gregg@roanokesound.com http://www.greggkemp.com
|