U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | RE: fogged digital negative?

RE: fogged digital negative?

Hi Greg,

If you inter-leave the negatives with plain printing paper this will help
absorb the glycols and what not from the substrate.

Hope this helps,

Don Bryant

-----Original Message-----
From: Gregg Kemp [mailto:gregg@roanokesound.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 10:30 AM
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: Re: fogged digital negative?

I have been storing my digital negatives in a print box, either right  
after printing it, or right after making a print with it.  So I really  
haven't been letting them air dry much at all - at least not in any  
intentional way.  I've now reprinted the ones I would like to print  
with again and have placed them on a shelf in a closet to dry - with  
the ink side up.  I won't be able to do any printing for the next two  
weeks, so I'll just let them dry out a few days, then put them in  
sleeves until I have time to print again in a couple of weeks.  To be  
safe, I think I'll let them air dry a bit after printing also, before  
returning them to their sleeves.

Thanks again for all the good information.  I hadn't given much  
thought to the negatives, so this has all helped a lot.


On Apr 14, 2008, at 12:30 AM, Ender100@aol.com wrote:

> Gregg,
> My experience is that you can use digital negatives a number of  
> times until the get scratched or you do something that wrecks them.   
> I've used them up to 10 times and have not noticed any problem from  
> the exposure to UV light.
> If I understand correctly you used this negative before and it  
> sounds like it picked up moisture from the coated paper this time.   
> Did you notice having to peel the two apart?
> Newly printed negatives will look "frosted" when viewed from the non- 
> emulsion side until they dry a bit.  This is very pronounced right  
> at first.
> The 2200 inks take much longer to dry than the current inks in the  
> R2400.  As Jon mentioned, you can give the negative a boost in  
> drying with a hair dryer without damaging it, as long as you keep  
> the hair dryer moving and don't overheat the negatives.
> For the 2200, I think the negative would cure in a couple of hours  
> on the original Pictorico and in less time on the Ultra Pictorico.   
> An R2400 negative on Ultra is cured in about half and hour the the  
> density remains stable after that.
> The R1800 negatives take quite a while to cure and are prone to  
> picking up dust during printing and right after.  The 2200 and  
> current inks don't seem to gather dust at all.
> I always let my negatives cure emulsion side up.
> Mark Nelson
> Precision Digital Negatives
> PDNPrint : Precision Digital Negatives
> Mark I. Nelson Photography
> In a message dated 4/12/08 3:28:45 PM, gregg@roanokesound.com writes:
>> I was printing some cyanotypes today and one of my digital negatives
>> seems to have "fogged".  I've printed with this negative 3-4 times
>> before, with fairly consistent results.  But today it added a dark
>> ring around the print.  When I looked at the negative, it looked OK  
>> on
>> the inkjet side, but the other side had a strange, silvery fog to it.
>> The effect was to lighten the negative and print out darker around an
>> area about 6 inches in diameter.
>> Is this a normal problem for a digital negative - a short life span?
>> Or did I do something wrong - maybe use it too soon after printing  
>> the
>> negative.  I don't remember how long I waited before using it to make
>> a print.  But I've used it several times over several weeks.  I'll
>> make another negative, but just wanted to check here to see what I  
>> may
>> have done wrong.  The negative requires a 9 minute exposure for the
>> cyanotype and paper I'm using.  I'm printing with a UV lightbox  
>> that's
>> around 26 x 20 inches or so, and about 4 inches from the bulbs.
>> - Gregg
> **************
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Gregg Kemp