I go to a beauty supply house and buy the clear 20v
stuff--you should have a Sally Beauty supply by you. I get it by the
gallon for $6. Then I use that equal--a liter of mordancage plus a liter
However, you can use the drugstore stuff as well
but use more of it. The chemists on the list can chime in and tell you how
much volume of 3.5% HP which I think is the drugstore kind, is equivalent to a
liter of 20v....it is not a direct conversion and there is a formula. It
works just fine.
In the fall I do a gang mordancage lab outside at
my house with my photo students. It is a BLAST. This year I had
them come back and do negatives a week later with the old solution. Again,
wow stuff--esp the guy who did it to 8x10 bw.
Ilford MGIV is the best paper to do this with--very
Get your copper chloride by the pound from
glacial acetic acid--you can substitute any stop
bath for this but if the indicator stop bath that exhausts to purple, it will
dye your prints, so stay away from indicator stop baths. Yukky.
Any developer will do.
I have a tray of thiocarbamide toner and a tray of
selenium side by side with the developer. Remember not to selenium tone
until after you develop because the fixer in KRST will bleach out the print
Lots more to tell but this is enough.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 1:29
I'm going to be trying Mordanšage within a week or two, as soon as I can
gather the materials/chemicals. I have a few questions about the hydrogen
peroxide: will store bought peroxide work? All the recipes I've seen on the
net say 30 volume. Is that what comes from the store? or will I need to get
some from a chemical supplier?