Loris,
My standard yellow is PY150 (nickel azo yellow) from Daniel Smith. It is a very transparent cool yellow, much stronger from the tube then other colors. It actually looks kind of ugly straight from the tube, but try making swatches and diluting it and you will find it quite fascinating. For a warmer yellow try PY110 (permanent yellow deep), also very a transparent yellow that will shift your overall print balance towards somewhat warmer hues. If I am not happy with my first yellow layer I almost always add PY110 as a second layer.
FOr magenta stick with PV19.
There are a couple of transparent magenta pigments that you could experiment with but they are a bit off key from the primary hues. Deep scarlet (PR175) that Katharine suggested recently and I have been testing. Another suggestion is perylene maroon. I do not have the number here but every manufacturer's perylene maroon is exactly that.
The choices could drive you insane.
Hope you are doing well.
Marek
> Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 14:51:36 +0200 > From: mail@loris.medici.name > Subject: Taming Fabriano Artistico (Trad. White) for Cyanotype > To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca > > I have few questions about Fabriano Artistico Trad. White & Trad. Cyanotype: > > Is there anyone using this paper for Trad. Cyanotype? Do you pre-treat the > paper before printing Cyanotype? > > I had a bad experience with Fabriano Artistico and New Cyanotype, > therefore plan to acidify (or neutralize) the paper before printing Trad. > Cyanotype. I remember someone's nice Cyanotype prints on Artistico but I'm > not sure if it was the Trad. White or Extra White variant. > > I want a paper which is good for both Cyanotype and Gum -> I want for more > dmax / punch with my color prints, therefore want to use Cyanotype as the > Cyan layer. > > BTW, any non staining / transparent M and Y primary pigment suggestions > would be highly appreciated. As far as I can see, Schmincke PV19 is nice > as Magenta but PY151 of the same brand has too much filler and kills the > underlying layers by seriosly clouding them (despite being marketed as > semi-transparent)... > > I plan to: > 1. mix 0.5M (~50ml 35% HCl into water givin a final volume of 1000ml) HCl and > 2. put the paper into it for not more than 10 minutes and > 3. transfer the paper into salted water (to suck the HCl out of the paper > by osmosis) few minutes > 4. rinse it (flushing several times) in pH neutral tap water > > Do you think the above procedure is fine to get rid of the calcium > carbonate buffer in the paper w/o disturbing it's integrity? > > Should I lightly size the paper after acid treatment in order to get a > decent (contrasty and sharp) Cyanotype layer of will it work OK? > > Thanks in advance! > Loris. > > P.S. I know I can try this and see for myself but I'm sure there are > people already tried this before, so I'm trying to save time by not > pursuing an lenghty but equally ineffective(?) procedure... >