[alt-photo] Re: Re : Re: cyanotype [Triangle]

[Paul Viapiano]

Trevor,

Those are beautiful...thanks for sharing.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Trevor Cunningham" <trevor at chalkjockeys.com>
To: "The alternative photographic processes mailing list" 
<alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 5:16 AM
Subject: [alt-photo] Re: Re : Re: cyanotype [Triangle]


I use white vinegar in my initial development AND my final wash (I've
found a second bath prevents run-off stains and saves me the task of
erasing those with a q-tip and baking soda). I've posted a few current
images. I've tried to make the colors as true as possible to the prints,
hopefully that translates on your monitors. The flowers were all printed
on Strathmore (a paper I'm finding I like more and more), and the
landscape was printed on Bienfang Ph Neutral. The latter failed to clear
in the highlights, and actually soaked almost through the paper (I was
laying it on a little thick). This prompted me to try a size...I threw
some gesso on there and, while it did nothing for the staining, gave me
a sandy quality I am absolutely smitten with. Diane, if we have
opportunity to meet up this month, I'll show you one if you like. I have
a few more to make before I hop on the plane next week. The website is
here: http://www.chalkfoto.com/Cyanotype/

ding dangdong wrote:
> Hello Loris and all,
>
> In a recent 8-day printing frenzy of cyanotype gumovers and tricolors, 
> (for a show of only 13 prints; ugh!) My two most reliable friends were 
> 'vinaigre d alcool' and my wife's hair dryer. I use the vinegar to 
> pre-acidify full sheets of Fabriano Artistico and 10 sheets of smaller (30 
> x 30cm) indian handmade paper i found at sennelier here in Paris. Dont 
> know if im doing it right but out of laziness or maybe i read it here 
> sometime ago, i decided to consider the 'preshrinking presoak' done at 
> this stage.  also pour 2 cups of it to 5 liters of water in the 
> development when i desire to keep more of the blues in the scale and omit 
> it when i want more to wash off giving me more latitude for the gum 
> layers. In that time span, (May 21 - 28) weather here
>  got funky with extreme
>  changes, raining hard and humid one day then 30 degrees of glorious 
> sunhsine the following. I wasted three parent sheets at one point in this 
> print run because i can't figure out why im getting very dark violet stain 
> in areas mostly in the highlights. My thoughts were 1) overexposing too 
> much 2) uneven coating 3) contaminated or mistake in my chemical mix 4) 
> fogging 5) humidity.
> It was then that i remembered Loris' advice on printing bone dry that i 
> used the hair dryer and went a little more careful in keeping things at a 
> constant. Im working under time (and supplies running short) pressure so 
> you can imagine how relieved i was when the problem went away. Again, I 
> thank the list for the rescue and specially Loris for this one!!!
>
> p.s. For European list members The indian paper i found gave me the 
> deepest blue and very wide tonal range i have experienced with trad 
> cyanotype almost like what i get with cyanotype 2. And bonus is i dont 
> even have to acidify!!! code is 'SP3 2W 3. pochete de papier indien blanc. 
> pur chiffon'. link: 
> http://www.magasinsennelier.com/papier/p_monde.html#pinde
> p.s.2 apologies for my pained attempt at writing english. Its not my 
> native language neither French.
> Ding
>
> --- En date de : Jeu 3.6.10, Loris Medici
>  <mail at loris.medici.name> a écrit :
>
> De: Loris Medici <mail at loris.medici.name>
> Objet: [alt-photo] Re: cyanotype [Triangle]
> À: "'The alternative photographic processes mailing list'" 
> <alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org>
> Date: Jeudi 3 juin 2010, 9h08
>
> My advice would be that you:
> Humidify before coating, coat, wait until no surface sheen is visible (3-5
> minutes depending on paper and environment), thoroughly force dry with 
> heat
> (both front and back sides, until paper's literallty/practically bone 
> dry),
> wave the paper few times until it isn't hot anymore (don't overdo it since
> it immediately starts to suck moisture from the air and do it in a
> consistent manner), quickly put the paper in the printing frame sealing 
> the
> back with mylar or similar
>  impermeable material and expose. (Naturally, the
> exposure times will increase significantly due decreased sensitivity, but
> once determined it's very consistent - in every RH levels...)
>
> Regards,
> Loris.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Loris Medici
> Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 9:59 AM
> To: 'The alternative photographic processes mailing list'
> Subject: RE: [alt-photo] Re: cyanotype [Triangle]
>
> Diana,
>
> All processes that use FAC are somehow problematic in the department of
> getting "in" the paper. You need relaxed (humid - not wet!) paper while
> coating, to have the sensitizer effectively soak in the paper. You don't
> need damp paper while exposing (if you aren't going for the shortest
> possible exposure time, that is...), actually, damp/humid paper during
> exposure is a problem with processes that have FAC sensitizer; since
> negatives tend to stick to the paper and/or negatives peel the
>  topmost
> fibers from the paper giving extra grainy / fibrous tones...
>
> Regards,
> Loris.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org On Behalf Of
> Diana Bloomfield
> Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 5:01 AM
> To: The alternative photographic processes mailing list
> Subject: [alt-photo] Re: cyanotype [Triangle]
>
> Hmm . . . that's so odd.  I really have to humidify my papers (for
> cyanotype)-- literally holding both sides of the paper in the steam, until
> the paper actually feels somewhat damp, for cyanotype to work for me-- no
> matter what paper I use.  Otherwise, the emulsion just comes right off in
> the water.  That's why I'm so surprised that  humidity would be the issue. 
> Maybe
>  it's just weird water up there,  full of weird toxic stuff. :0
>
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