[alt-photo] Re: metallic/chromo/gold/halochrome/Seigel/Dalla Tana

[Keith Gerling]

Chris, you're kinda amazing.

On Sat, May 1, 2010 at 4:16 PM, Christina Anderson <zphoto at montana.net>wrote:

> Dear All (and Alberto specifically),
>
> OK, so I did all this researching on metallic plating out of prints because
> I just can't give my questions a rest (instead of grading as I should be
> doing).  Below is a lengthy list of the different chemistries involved that
> may be part of Dalla Tana's gold process. I found out all about Halochrome
> from the Rockland website as well as their MSDS sheets and the Halochrome is
> all their writing, not mine as indicated by quotes (tho it is loosely
> quoted). So I now know the difference between doing it on a non-fixed print
> and a fixed.  I share all, below, for someone still interested in getting
> into the darkroom. I am most positive Dalla Tana is doing it on a developed
> and fixed/previously made print as you can see, below, in the Halochrome
> section.
>
> I share also my formula for doing chromo.
>
> Those of you who do not think gelatin silver is alt, I apologize.
>
> I was most happy to go through Judy's PF Journals again, but I had never
> read these sections because I was only interested in gum at the time.  I
> include her information here as well for comparison.  But you have to read
> it for yourself, and get the instructions. I thought it hilarious to find
> that I term my form of chromo "poor man's daguerreotype" and Judy in her PF
> years ago called it a "poor person's daguerreotype".  I thought I was being
> so clever!!! And here she was clever long before me, AND being
> gender-neutral. I wish, Judy, you would bind all PFs in a book and publish
> thru Lulu--so easy to make one PDF and do it nowadays....Jeremy, maybe you
> can do the work for her like you did with Camera Work :)
>
> I also read Diana Bloomfield's HILARIOUS essay on portfolio reviews.  I
> think it is a must-read for my students.
>
> And Cor Breukel and Christine Osinski did a lot of experimenting with this
> process as well.  Wonder who else.
>
> Enough procrastination for the day.
> Chris
>
> ========================================================================
> My formula for CHROMOSKEDASIC SABATTIER
> Activator (pH 14)
> Weight %/ Chemical Name
> 5-10        potassium hydroxide
> 5-10        sodium sulfite
>
> Stabilizer (pH 4.85)
> Weight%/ Chemical Name
> 15-20        ammonium thiocyanate
> 5-10        sodium metabisulfite
> 1-5               acetic acid
> (works best with Tektol, not Dektol, so see below for ingredient
> comparison)
>
> Tektol (pH 10.35)
> Weight%/Chemical Name
> 10-25                         potassium carbonate
> 7-10                         sodium sulfite
> 5-10                         sodium isoascorbic
> 1-5                         triethanolamine
>
>
> Activator is always in a 2:1 proportion to Stabilizer and Tektol stock, and
> mixed like this:
> 2 parts Activator
> 1 part Tektol
> 1 part Stabilizer
> 4 parts water
> At time of use, mix a tray of the above and put a freshly developed but not
> yet fixed print into it for as long as it takes to plate out silver.  Fix,
> wash, hypclear as normal.
> ========================================================================
> "HALOCHROME (Rockland Website!!!)
> "Halo-Chrome tones black-and-white prints pure silver by fusing the black
> grains of colloidal silver into solid metallic silver. It can be used two
> ways, one on a finished print and one on a freshly developed but not fixed
> print. The first, bleaching and retoning an already finished print, produces
> silver in the blacks of the image so a silver image on a white background
> (if it were a black tree against a white sky).  The second, no bleaching but
> just toning a not-yet-fixed image—produces silver in the whites of the image
> so a black image on a silver sky (if it were a black tree against a white
> sky).
> "Bleach Formula:
> CUPRIC CHLORIDE Percent: 38
> WATER Percent: 62
> Prepare the bleach solution by adding the entire contents of the small
> bottle of green copper bleach to one quart (1 liter) of water. Add one
> tablespoonful (approx. 1 oz.) of table salt. Store this solution in a glass
> or plastic bottle marked "Bleach." Do not use stainless steel or other
> metals, as the bleach is corrosive.
>
> "Redeveloper Formula:
> Halo-Chrome® Silver Toner (1)
> AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE (SARA III) Percent: 30
> SODIUM HYDROXIDE (SARA III) Percent: 2.5
> NON-HAZARDOUS INGREDIENTS AND WATER Percent: 67.5
> © Rockland Colloid Corp.)
> Make up a fresh working solution of Halo-Chrome by mixing one part of
> concentrate with 7 parts of cool water. (Use the same day).
>
> "Bleaching and Redeveloping a fixed print
> Choose a high-contrast negative. Expose normally onto paper, either
> fiber-base or RC. Develop with paper developer such as Dektol, and fix with
> Kodak Fixer (or other hypo-based fixer. Avoid rapid or liquid fixers, which
> may fade the image.) Wash the print thoroughly to remove all fixer.  The
> remaining steps can be done under room light. Immerse the washed print in
> the Bleach solution until only a yellow ghost-image remains. Rinse the
> print. The bleach can be re-used. Pour enough Redeveloper solution to cover
> the print in a tray and immerse the print with constant agitation until
> silvering is complete. (A second print can be toned immediately after.)
> Rinse the toned print and put back in fixer for a few seconds, until any
> stains disappear (or not at all if you don’t need it—it is a “develop to
> completion” process). Wash 5 minutes and dry.
>
> "Silvering out a not-fixed print
> This procedure does not require bleach. Make up a fresh working solution of
> Redeveloper  by mixing one part of concentrate with 7 parts of cool water.
> (Use the same day). Choose a high-contrast negative. Expose the print for
> twice the normal time. Develop the print in paper developer, but do not
> shortstop or fix. Pour enough Halo-Chrome solution to cover the print in a
> tray. Rinse the developed print one minute in running water, drain and
> immerse in the Halo-Chrome solution with vigorous agitation until silvering
> is complete. Rinse the toned print and fix for one minute. Wash and dry like
> a normal print."
>
> ========================================================================
>
> POST FACTORY  © JUDY SEIGEL
>
> Silver Mirror Printing, or as Seigel calls it, Specular Silver (SS) Toning
> (the “poor person’s daguerreotype”) Issue 3 pp. 28-29, 38, Issue 4 p. 43,
> Issue 6 pp. 31-32, Issue 7 pp. 23, 26. Issue 3 is the one you want to buy.
>
>  BLEACH
> Copper Bleach (CB)
> 300ml water
> 10g. sodium chloride (2 ¾ tsp)
> 10g. copper sulfate (1 ½ tsp)
> At time of use, dilute bleach 1+1 water.
> (and lots of other formulae)
>
> STEP TWO:  REDEVELOPER FORMULAE STOCK SOLUTIONS (mix 1 +10 at time of use)
> 2 g. hydrazine sulfate
> 1g hydroxylamine hydrochloride
> 50ml 25% ammonia
> 120ml 10% sodium hydroxide
> 40-200ml distilled water.
> (and LOTS of other formulae).
>
>
> Christina Z. Anderson
> christinaZanderson.com
>
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