[alt-photo] Re: humidity and contrast in the palladium /platinumprocesses

Fri May 21 15:42:30 GMT 2010

Bob,

This will introduce *more* variations in coating than coating 2 sheets at
the size he is used to working with in pt/pd. I assume he can evenly coat 2
sheets of a paper in the size he is used to working with based on his
website work and because if he can't then this test is moot and he needs to
focus on fixing that first!  Additionally, your suggestion introduces more
variables than just a change in coating procedure, i.e. drop counts, coating
time, may not have standard printing paper in a 2x size, etc.

I disagree with your suggestion and stick to my original experimental model
as it will provide a more accurate test of the affects of humidity on his
process as he normally prints. I understand why you made the suggestion, but
if the question is how humidity affects his prints as he makes them then my
model will be more accurate given the assumption of competency in the craft.

-Jeremy-

On Fri, May 21, 2010 at 10:30 AM, BOB KISS <bobkiss at caribsurf.com> wrote:

> DEAR FRANCIS,
>        I will suggest one modification to Jeremy's testing procedure to
> eliminate a variable.  Coat one sheet of paper large enough to make 2
> prints.  Immediately dry it with the hair dryer.  Cut in half, put one half
> in a light tight box.  Expose the other half without humidifying, develop,
> etc.  Now remove the half from the box, humidify expose and process.  Of
> course, you must use the same neg and exposure.  Dry and compare.  This
> eliminates variations in coating.
>                CHEERS!
>                        BOB
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org
> [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf
> Of
> Jeremy Moore
> Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 11:15 AM
> To: The alternative photographic processes mailing list
> Subject: [alt-photo] Re: humidity and contrast in the palladium
> /platinumprocesses
>
> Good point on the sheeting, Paul. If you one doesn't have mylar or
> something
> similar you can even cut down a plastic trash bag to fit. Anything that
> will
> keep the moisture in during exposure will work for this test.
>
> On Fri, May 21, 2010 at 10:11 AM, Paul Viapiano <viapiano at pacbell.net
> >wrote:
>
> > If you're in a dry climate or using a vacuum frame, try placing a large
> > sheet of mylar/thin plastic sheet on the bed and then placing your
> neg/paper
> > sandwich on top of that (after Jeremy's post-coating pre-exposure
> > humidification). This will keep the paper from drying out during exposure
> > and result in better dMax...
> >
> > Yes, old FO can give you anemic prints. B&S' ferric is said to last 1-2
> > years in solution but many factors, of course, can alter that. Many
> > professional printers mix FO the night before a printing session and FO
> is
> > available in premeasured mix packs for that purpose.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeremy Moore" <
> jeremydmoore at gmail.com>
> > To: "The alternative photographic processes mailing list" <
> > alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org>
> > Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 7:59 AM
> > Subject: [alt-photo] Re: humidity and contrast in the palladium /
> > platinumprocesses
> >
> >
> >
> >  Francis,
> >>
> >> I will suggest a very easy test to see how relative humidity affects
> YOUR
> >> printing.
> >>
> >> Variable: Humidity
> >>
> >> Experimental Model:
> >> 1. Coat a piece of paper and immediately blow dry it (preferably with
> cool
> >> air so as not to introduce another variable, but you do want forced air)
> >> then expose it.
> >> 2. Process as normal.
> >> 3. Coat a 2nd sheet of paper and immediately blow dry it (dry it in the
> >> same
> >> manner as you dried the first one). Re-humidify this paper by holding it
> >> over steamy water from a tap or heated water on a stove or a humidifier
> if
> >> you have one. Humidify the paper until it is as damp as you think you
> can
> >> make it without ruining your digital negative then expose it.
> >> 4. Process as normal.
> >> 5. Let both prints fully dry then compare and report back to us!
> >>
> >> Notes: Keep everything as constant as possible--even to the point of
> paper
> >> from the same batch or coating 2 halves of the same sheet. Print an
> image
> >> with long, smooth tonal scale. Include a step wedge in the prints--both
> a
> >> Stouffer if you have one and a test wedge created in Photoshop that is
> >> part
> >> of your digital negative.
> >>
> >> On Fri, May 21, 2010 at 9:49 AM, francis schanberger <frangst at gmail.com
> >> >wrote:
> >>
> >>  Dear AltList,
> >>>
> >>> What is the working relationship of relative humidity to the final
> >>> contrast
> >>> in either a palladium developing out print or a printing out print?
> >>>
> >>> I've been struggling with contrast and have always been rather
> >>> laissez-faire
> >>> in monitoring and adjusting humidity due to the dungeon like qualities
> of
> >>> my
> >>> dim room.
> >>>
> >>> In regards to developers, does ammonium citrate ever get too old? Could
> a
> >>> trend of producing low contrast images independent of drop mixtures
> >>> indicate
> >>> exhausted developer? I was reading in the Weese / Sullivan "New
> Platinum
> >>> Print" book that older ferric oxalate tends to have higher not lower
> >>> contrast.
> >>>
> >>> -francis
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> francis schanberger
> >>>
> >>> www.frangst.com
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> Alt-photo-process-list | http://altphotolist.org/listinfo
> >>>
> >>>  _______________________________________________
> >> Alt-photo-process-list | http://altphotolist.org/listinfo
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Alt-photo-process-list | http://altphotolist.org/listinfo
> >
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