[alt-photo] Re: Gum Bichomate used as a resist for metal printing

Jack Brubaker jack at jackbrubaker.com
Sun Feb 6 01:22:39 GMT 2011


Keith, I love the idea but I don't think so... Come in the spring and we'll
play.  Jack



On Sat, Feb 5, 2011 at 5:27 PM, Keith Gerling <keith.gerling at gmail.com>wrote:

> Jack, this is very helpful!  I'll be heading your way in the spring.  Hey,
> dont I owe you a print still?
>
> On Sat, Feb 5, 2011 at 2:03 PM, Jack Brubaker <jack at jackbrubaker.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Keith,
> >
> > Several thoughts. There are a lot of materials that will color metals.
> > There
> > is a great company in WS that makes patina solutions that I use. They are
> > at
> > www.epi.com. I also use JAX Chemical Company patinas. In the past EPI
> > would
> > send out one pint samples for free. Don't know if that is true today.
> >
> > I use the EPI patinas in a spray bottle and mist them on either just
> enough
> > o speckle the surface or to flood it.
> >
> > I prepare the metal by sandblasting most of the time, but scrubbing it
> > clean
> > with a Scotch-Brite pad will work. If the patina beads up on part of the
> > piece scrub the patina in with a scotch-brite pad. The acid content in
> the
> > solution usually helps clean the surface.
> >
> > On steel I use their Insta Blak 333 on steel and copper based metals. I
> > don't know if I have tried it on aluminum. I buy that stuff in 5 gallon
> > pails. If you want to try some let me know and I'll send you a sample. If
> I
> > remember they don't actually sell smaller quantities than 5 gals.
> >
> > Sand blasting is another idea. I have wondered about blasting a metal
> plate
> > with a thick gum image on it. The gum might hold up long enough to form
> an
> > image. Perhaps sand blast first and blacken with the patina then do the
> gum
> > image (the blasted surface should hold the gum well) and blast off the
> > exposed blackening to make the final image. The gum might break down
> slowly
> > enough to form a tonal image. I've been meaning to try this for 20 years.
> > Next time you come this way let's play with it!
> >
> > Jack Brubaker
> >
> > On Sat, Feb 5, 2011 at 12:02 PM, Keith Gerling <keith.gerling at gmail.com
> > >wrote:
> >
> > > As i recall, the artist used gum for a resist, then immersed steel
> plates
> > > in
> > > various corrosive agents to get different colors.  What I am looking
> for
> > is
> > > what those agents are.
> > >
> > > Any ideas, Jack?  You're the metal expert!  What would be even better
> is
> > if
> > > you had any thoughts on how i could tarnish/blemish/colorize aluminum.
>  I
> > > have loads of aluminum that I could use for this.
> > >
> > > As for removing it, if it doesnt dissolve in one of the solutions, I
> can
> > > always hit it with a blowtorch.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > it just dawned on my that you're going to polymerise the gum with
> > > bichromate
> > > which is of course going to make it insoluble in water. Your
> > possibilities
> > > for using an etch then broaden (I'd try high strength hydrogen peroxide
> > > maybe). How do you remove the hardened gum after the etch though? ~m
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On 2/5/2011 6:12 AM, Keith Gerling wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> Some years ago I remember seeing some links to some metal work.  I
> > > believe
> > > >> the artist used gum to create a resist and then allowed corrosion to
> > > >> create
> > > >> the image on steel.  Does anyone have these links bookmarked?
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