[Alt-photo] Re: DAS

C.Breukel at lumc.nl C.Breukel at lumc.nl
Mon Apr 15 12:22:59 UTC 2013


Perhaps you could use dried silica to extract moisture from your carbon tissue ?

Best,

cor

-----Original Message-----
From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of Bert Kuijer
Sent: maandag 15 april 2013 14:03
To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org
Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: DAS

Hello Kees,
A teacher in a course for making dry plate glass negatives had the same problem with drying the glass plates after coating. He had a simple but effective method. He stored the coated glass plates in cardboard boxes for
2 days. The boxes are light tight and the cardboard absorbs moisture easily.
If you dry inside a plastic box or a tight cabinet, the moisture can't go any where so it can dry for many, many days.
And to keep the costs very low, he buys old board games on flee markets, throws away the contents, keeping only the outer boxes for his drying ;-)

"Have fun and catch that light beam!"
Bert from Holland
http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl<http://www.linkedin.com/redirect?url=http%3A%2F%2Fthetoadmen%2Eblogspot%2Enl&urlhash=hCr8&_t=tracking_disc>
http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup

2013/4/15 Kees Brandenburg <workshops at polychrome.nl>

> Hi Loris,
>
> (...)
> My biggest problem is the drying time of the freshly coated sensitized 
> tissue. It prevents me to turn on normal lights in my darkroom for 
> almost 2 days! I should build a light-tight drying cabinet. Mixing 
> coating and preparing for printing I do under sodium vapor safelights. 
> I have two Osram Duka's and a large French made safe light that 
> carries a Philips SOX sodium vapor lamp. So that's a lot of safe light.
>
> -kees
>
>
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