From workshops at polychrome.nl Sat Jun 1 07:11:58 2013 From: workshops at polychrome.nl (Kees Brandenburg) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 09:11:58 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: DAS from China In-Reply-To: <571D0DEB-9E8A-41DE-9F1A-696E75217B87@jorj.org> References: <571D0DEB-9E8A-41DE-9F1A-696E75217B87@jorj.org> Message-ID: Hi Jorj, Nice to hear you like the Chinese DAS. I told you ordering is a bit adventurous...but it's worth the hassle. Can you also tell us how you print your carbon negatives? With a color layer as in your casein negs? kees On 1 jun. 2013, at 00:19, Jorj Bauer wrote: > Just to follow up to everyone: the DAS from China is great. I'm using a 3% (w/v) solution, 1:1 with acetone, brushed on (because I have existing sheets of carbon) and it works fundamentally the same as a 1.5% of Ammonium Dichromate, 1:1 with acetone, brushed on the same, dried the same, same exposure time. > > The ChartThrob curves are very similar. Both are nearly linear, with DAS being closer to linear response. Which makes it easier to use stock negatives without diddling with curves; I'll probably never use this curve. > > The two curves are here for anyone that's interested: > > http://www.jorj.org/expire/jorj_carbon_das_6m.acv > > http://www.jorj.org/expire/jorj_carbon_6m.acv > > -- Jorj > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From donsbryant at gmail.com Sat Jun 1 12:27:44 2013 From: donsbryant at gmail.com (Don) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 08:27:44 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Nuarc 26K for sale In-Reply-To: References: <571D0DEB-9E8A-41DE-9F1A-696E75217B87@jorj.org> Message-ID: <888FA3CBF6984DFA830C42E24970EF93@FireBreather> Hello Everyone, I have a Nuarc 26k exposure unit available for sale located in the metro Atlanta - N. Georgia area. Included is a brand new never used Ushio MHL-1000/1 bulb. If you are interested please contact me off list. Thanks, Don Bryant From marekmatusz at hotmail.com Sat Jun 1 14:34:29 2013 From: marekmatusz at hotmail.com (Marek Matusz) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 14:34:29 +0000 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Four color gum In-Reply-To: References: <51982938.9020209@gmail.com>, , , ,,, , , ,,<51988A5B.7060408@gmail.com> <050701ce5480$920b8a60$b6229f20$@gmail.com>, , , ,,, , , ,,, , , ,,<99E493F6-B755-4C1D-9A0A-877BEF6583F2@gmail.com>, , ,,, , ,,, ,,, , , <4773BD83-18DA-4542-8D9C-64C1DE6766F5@gmail.com>, , , , <31D71573-52A7-4CAB-83FD-69801BA12D34@pictoform.nu>, , <07591C54-B260-4B10-B4B1-F060E1F00EA8@gmail.com>, , Message-ID: Diana, The only thing for brushing and spray development is that you will need a longer exposure to begin with to have a more sturdy gum layer.. I would double your normal exposure time and then play with it. Marek > From: dlhbloomfield at gmail.com > Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 17:30:56 -0400 > To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Four color gum > > Hey Marek, > > Wow-- Thank you so much for sharing all these. I love them. I think they're really wonderful and definitely have that look that's so appealing. And thanks for all the details. I always use Quinacridone gold for my yellows. For some reason, when I first started gum, I seemed to have problems with various yellows-- except for that one. That's really interesting/informative to see the process here, too. I love the gray/blue of it all-- and just a hint of pink in those few. I look forward to trying this. I had ordered some powdered lamp black-- but I do have graphite on hand, so I might try it with what I have tomorrow. I'm thinking that the brushing/spraying technique is a bit tricky(?)-- but this is very helpful. Thanks. Really really like the look of these. > > Diana > > > On May 31, 2013, at 2:32 PM, Marek Matusz wrote: > > > > > > > All, Here is the link to my final set of pictures. All 3 prints are done now. https://plus.google.com/photos/105732508998271877151/albums/5882305049320410433 My workflow was somewhat different from Chia's. I used graphite gray (which comes as a nice neutral black on the print) for my fist black layer with K negative. Then I decided to use RGB separations for added color. My blue was cobalt blue (Daniel Smith). It is a very light, clean blue, which suited me well since I was going for a tint rather then full color saturation. I have included pictures of that stage. Then I added magenta (quinacridone rose from DS). This turned out to be a bit more saturated then I would like. For one of the images I have included two versions of the print. One with just soak water development, perhaps 15 minutes and the second image after spray development and brushing. I need to cut the magenta concentration for my next project. I did do a lot of spraying and brushing to remove parts of the > i > > mage at every stage. For yellow I used Quinacridone gold PO49. It is more muted then typical process yellow. Just one of the images (amaryllis) contained a substantial yellow component and it blended very nicely with PV19 for the coral red of the amaryllis. Finally another lighter graphite layer to adjust (darken) background and add a touch of contrast in parts of images. That was one intense printing week and I am very excited about the images and the new printing workflow. I did try doing low saturation images before and they always come muddy and just unpleasant. This workflow of starting with a solid black layer is just amazing as it allowed me to visualize the steps of adding hints of color while keeping solid and crisp image. Thanks to Chia for sharing. Marek > > _______________________________________________ > > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From dlhbloomfield at gmail.com Sat Jun 1 16:49:15 2013 From: dlhbloomfield at gmail.com (Diana Bloomfield) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 12:49:15 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Four color gum In-Reply-To: References: <51982938.9020209@gmail.com> <51988A5B.7060408@gmail.com> <050701ce5480$920b8a60$b6229f20$@gmail.com> <99E493F6-B755-4C1D-9A0A-877BEF6583F2@gmail.com> <4773BD83-18DA-4542-8D9C-64C1DE6766F5@gmail.com> <31D71573-52A7-4CAB-83FD-69801BA12D34@pictoform.nu> <07591C54-B260-4B10-B4B1-F060E1F00EA8@gmail.com> Message-ID: <698491E0-6CC1-4F4A-9DDD-D55612740380@gmail.com> Okay; thanks. And you did use separation negatives? My powered pigments literally just arrived. I'm trying it this afternoon. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 1, 2013, at 10:34 AM, Marek Matusz wrote: > Diana, > > The only thing for brushing and spray development is that you will need a longer exposure to begin with to have a more sturdy gum layer.. I would double your normal exposure time and then play with it. > > Marek > >> From: dlhbloomfield at gmail.com >> Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 17:30:56 -0400 >> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org >> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Four color gum >> >> Hey Marek, >> >> Wow-- Thank you so much for sharing all these. I love them. I think they're really wonderful and definitely have that look that's so appealing. And thanks for all the details. I always use Quinacridone gold for my yellows. For some reason, when I first started gum, I seemed to have problems with various yellows-- except for that one. That's really interesting/informative to see the process here, too. I love the gray/blue of it all-- and just a hint of pink in those few. I look forward to trying this. I had ordered some powdered lamp black-- but I do have graphite on hand, so I might try it with what I have tomorrow. I'm thinking that the brushing/spraying technique is a bit tricky(?)-- but this is very helpful. Thanks. Really really like the look of these. >> >> Diana >> >> >> On May 31, 2013, at 2:32 PM, Marek Matusz wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> All, Here is the link to my final set of pictures. All 3 prints are done now. https://plus.google.com/photos/105732508998271877151/albums/5882305049320410433 My workflow was somewhat different from Chia's. I used graphite gray (which comes as a nice neutral black on the print) for my fist black layer with K negative. Then I decided to use RGB separations for added color. My blue was cobalt blue (Daniel Smith). It is a very light, clean blue, which suited me well since I was going for a tint rather then full color saturation. I have included pictures of that stage. Then I added magenta (quinacridone rose from DS). This turned out to be a bit more saturated then I would like. For one of the images I have included two versions of the print. One with just soak water development, perhaps 15 minutes and the second image after spray development and brushing. I need to cut the magenta concentration for my next project. I did do a lot of spraying and brushing to remove parts of t > he >> i >>> mage at every stage. For yellow I used Quinacridone gold PO49. It is more muted then typical process yellow. Just one of the images (amaryllis) contained a substantial yellow component and it blended very nicely with PV19 for the coral red of the amaryllis. Finally another lighter graphite layer to adjust (darken) background and add a touch of contrast in parts of images. That was one intense printing week and I am very excited about the images and the new printing workflow. I did try doing low saturation images before and they always come muddy and just unpleasant. This workflow of starting with a solid black layer is just amazing as it allowed me to visualize the steps of adding hints of color while keeping solid and crisp image. Thanks to Chia for sharing. Marek >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From sanking at clemson.edu Sat Jun 1 16:56:09 2013 From: sanking at clemson.edu (Sandy King) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 12:56:09 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: DAS from China In-Reply-To: <571D0DEB-9E8A-41DE-9F1A-696E75217B87@jorj.org> References: <571D0DEB-9E8A-41DE-9F1A-696E75217B87@jorj.org> Message-ID: Jorj, Are you making carbon prints on fiber paper with the DAS? If so, are you able to eliminate the yellow stain that has described as characteristic of DAS? Sandy On May 31, 2013, at 6:19 PM, Jorj Bauer wrote: > Just to follow up to everyone: the DAS from China is great. I'm using a 3% (w/v) solution, 1:1 with acetone, brushed on (because I have existing sheets of carbon) and it works fundamentally the same as a 1.5% of Ammonium Dichromate, 1:1 with acetone, brushed on the same, dried the same, same exposure time. > > The ChartThrob curves are very similar. Both are nearly linear, with DAS being closer to linear response. Which makes it easier to use stock negatives without diddling with curves; I'll probably never use this curve. > > The two curves are here for anyone that's interested: > > http://www.jorj.org/expire/jorj_carbon_das_6m.acv > > http://www.jorj.org/expire/jorj_carbon_6m.acv > > -- Jorj > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From jorj at jorj.org Sat Jun 1 16:58:27 2013 From: jorj at jorj.org (Jorj Bauer) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 12:58:27 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: DAS from China In-Reply-To: References: <571D0DEB-9E8A-41DE-9F1A-696E75217B87@jorj.org> Message-ID: <649073D9-063B-46A7-AEFB-DED2D70AE7F8@jorj.org> > Nice to hear you like the Chinese DAS. I told you ordering is a bit adventurous...but it's worth the hassle. It certainly was. :) > Can you also tell us how you print your carbon negatives? With a color layer as in your casein negs? They're straight black. I only added the color layer to the casein/glass negatives because of how sensitive that process was; I wanted finer control over the exposure. -- Jorj From jorj at jorj.org Sat Jun 1 17:00:39 2013 From: jorj at jorj.org (Jorj Bauer) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 13:00:39 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: DAS from China In-Reply-To: References: <571D0DEB-9E8A-41DE-9F1A-696E75217B87@jorj.org> Message-ID: <3FF9B9C8-EB16-47F7-BFC2-5E9CC3864DAF@jorj.org> > Are you making carbon prints on fiber paper with the DAS? If so, are you able to eliminate the yellow stain that has described as characteristic of DAS? I'm hoping to have my first prints on actual paper today (Rives BFK); sheets are drying after sensitizing at the moment. But I'm doing multi-layer color which means double-transfer, which should avoid the problem (by not trapping the DAS on the fiber, washing it away at separation from the temporary support). But that's all theoretical at the moment. Ask me again on Monday. :) -- Jorj From gjh at shaw.ca Sat Jun 1 17:51:47 2013 From: gjh at shaw.ca (Gordon Holtslander) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 11:51:47 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Nuarc 26K for sale Message-ID: <2i1ktkxdnro4enffhubv2j95.1370109104038@email.android.com> Gordon J Holtslander Gjh at shaw.ca Don wrote: Hello Everyone, I have a Nuarc 26k exposure unit available for sale located in the metro Atlanta - N. Georgia area. Included is a brand new never used Ushio MHL-1000/1 bulb. If you are interested please contact me off list. Thanks, Don Bryant _______________________________________________ Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From gjh at shaw.ca Sat Jun 1 17:53:04 2013 From: gjh at shaw.ca (Gordon Holtslander) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 11:53:04 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Nuarc 26K for sale Message-ID: Gordon J Holtslander Gjh at shaw.ca Don wrote: Hello Everyone, I have a Nuarc 26k exposure unit available for sale located in the metro Atlanta - N. Georgia area. Included is a brand new never used Ushio MHL-1000/1 bulb. If you are interested please contact me off list. Thanks, Don Bryant _______________________________________________ Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From workshops at polychrome.nl Sat Jun 1 18:16:14 2013 From: workshops at polychrome.nl (Kees Brandenburg) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 20:16:14 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: DAS from China In-Reply-To: <649073D9-063B-46A7-AEFB-DED2D70AE7F8@jorj.org> References: <571D0DEB-9E8A-41DE-9F1A-696E75217B87@jorj.org> <649073D9-063B-46A7-AEFB-DED2D70AE7F8@jorj.org> Message-ID: <2D97B8EB-2F35-4456-8749-61489F8055F0@polychrome.nl> Hi jorj, Getting a straight line curve is something like finding the holy grail! > They're straight black. I only added the color layer to the casein/glass negatives because of how sensitive that process was; I wanted finer control over the exposure. My carbon curves are all close to a a gamma 1 => 2.2 - 2.4 correction on the positive image. What printer are you using and what inkset? Did you use PK or MK for K? -k From sanking at clemson.edu Sat Jun 1 19:07:40 2013 From: sanking at clemson.edu (Sandy King) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 15:07:40 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Argyrotype on Fabriano Artistico Extra White Soft Press 300gsm (140lb) In-Reply-To: References: <0F6D7363-6538-413F-8A64-2A2C3325BBA1@clemson.edu> Message-ID: Loris, I should have mentioned that the first coating I do is diluted 1+1 with the light sensitive solution + a solution of 5% citric acid, not plain water. I tested this with several of the iron processes and a number of papers and found that this method gave me "almost" as much Dmax as double coating, and definitely more than single coating. Sandy On May 30, 2013, at 4:31 PM, Loris Medici wrote: > Same here, double coated Vandyke is better in terms of dmax. But I really > don't like to double coat, I sometimes get pour marks when I do so, > therefore I left that practice. When gold toned, single coated Vandyke or > Argyrotype both give me convincing dmax - Argyrotype being better. That's a > great tip though, may try it for some images in the future. Thanks much! > > Regards, > Loris. > > > > 2013/5/30 Sandy King > >> Loris, >> >> My normal coating procedure is to double coat. I use the same light >> sensitive solution, but the first coating is diluted 1+1 with water, second >> coating is full strength. I have done this with all of the iron sensitive >> processes, including kallitype and pt/pd, and almost always got a bit more >> Dmax with the double coating method (or perhaps the 1.5X coating method). >> >> Sandy >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On May 30, 2013, at 4:07 PM, Loris Medici wrote: >> >>> Dear Sandy, >>> >>> Indeed, the colors are very close if toned to completion - using full >>> strength toner. (It's slightly different with diluted toner though...) >>> OTOH, according to my recent experience, Argyrotype (even diluted 2+1) >>> gives slightly better dmax than Vandyke. (Both single coated.) When >>> printing Vandyke, which one you do - double coating or single coating? >>> >>> ?Regards, >>> Loris.? >>> >>> >>> 2013/5/30 Sandy King >>> >>>> ?... >>>> In any event there is virtually no difference in "look" between gold >>>> toned vandyke and argyrotype. >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From sanking at clemson.edu Sat Jun 1 19:23:48 2013 From: sanking at clemson.edu (Sandy King) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 15:23:48 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: DAS from China In-Reply-To: <2D97B8EB-2F35-4456-8749-61489F8055F0@polychrome.nl> References: <571D0DEB-9E8A-41DE-9F1A-696E75217B87@jorj.org> <649073D9-063B-46A7-AEFB-DED2D70AE7F8@jorj.org> <2D97B8EB-2F35-4456-8749-61489F8055F0@polychrome.nl> Message-ID: On Jun 1, 2013, at 2:16 PM, Kees Brandenburg wrote: > > > Getting a straight line curve is something like finding the holy grail! > > > -k > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo Yes, that seems to be the case. All of my digital negatives produced with the Epson driver require very abrupt .acv curves to linearize. With QTR I can do much better, in fact some of my profiles require virtually no linearization. Then, there is the problem of fine grain. You may have have a perfectly linearized profile, but if you use the profile for printing with a process like carbon the grain will show. Pt/Pd printers live in a more forgiving world as paper texture often hides printer artifacts!! For carbon I have a very nice profile for the Epson 3880 that prints very smooth in carbon, and is almost perfectly linear even with no linearizing curve in the profile. I use PK, never managed to get tight grain with MK with any of the Epson printers. In general one might be better off with carbon reducing the DR of the negative to 1.8 - 2.0. With the Epson printers that have pizza wheels the higher DR negatives will sometime show the marks with high DR negatives. Not always, but it is always a risk. Sandy From mail at loris.medici.name Sat Jun 1 19:53:35 2013 From: mail at loris.medici.name (Loris Medici) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 22:53:35 +0300 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Argyrotype on Fabriano Artistico Extra White Soft Press 300gsm (140lb) In-Reply-To: References: <0F6D7363-6538-413F-8A64-2A2C3325BBA1@clemson.edu> Message-ID: I see, after this remark, I remembered you had already told me about this method before; I must have forgotten... Thanks, will definitely try it. Regards, Loris. 2013/6/1 Sandy King > Loris, > > I should have mentioned that the first coating I do is diluted 1+1 with > the light sensitive solution + a solution of 5% citric acid, not plain > water. I tested this with several of the iron processes and a number of > papers and found that this method gave me "almost" as much Dmax as double > coating, and definitely more than single coating. > > Sandy > > > > > On May 30, 2013, at 4:31 PM, Loris Medici wrote: > > > Same here, double coated Vandyke is better in terms of dmax. But I really > > don't like to double coat, I sometimes get pour marks when I do so, > > therefore I left that practice. When gold toned, single coated Vandyke or > > Argyrotype both give me convincing dmax - Argyrotype being better. > That's a > > great tip though, may try it for some images in the future. Thanks much! > > > > Regards, > > Loris. > > > > > > > > 2013/5/30 Sandy King > > > >> Loris, > >> > >> My normal coating procedure is to double coat. I use the same light > >> sensitive solution, but the first coating is diluted 1+1 with water, > second > >> coating is full strength. I have done this with all of the iron > sensitive > >> processes, including kallitype and pt/pd, and almost always got a bit > more > >> Dmax with the double coating method (or perhaps the 1.5X coating > method). > >> > >> Sandy > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> On May 30, 2013, at 4:07 PM, Loris Medici wrote: > >> > >>> Dear Sandy, > >>> > >>> Indeed, the colors are very close if toned to completion - using full > >>> strength toner. (It's slightly different with diluted toner though...) > >>> OTOH, according to my recent experience, Argyrotype (even diluted 2+1) > >>> gives slightly better dmax than Vandyke. (Both single coated.) When > >>> printing Vandyke, which one you do - double coating or single coating? > >>> > >>> ?Regards, > >>> Loris.? > >>> > >>> > >>> 2013/5/30 Sandy King > >>> > >>>> ?... > >>>> In any event there is virtually no difference in "look" between gold > >>>> toned vandyke and argyrotype. > >>>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > _______________________________________________ > > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From mail at loris.medici.name Sat Jun 1 19:54:33 2013 From: mail at loris.medici.name (Loris Medici) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 22:54:33 +0300 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Four color gum In-Reply-To: <698491E0-6CC1-4F4A-9DDD-D55612740380@gmail.com> References: <51982938.9020209@gmail.com> <51988A5B.7060408@gmail.com> <050701ce5480$920b8a60$b6229f20$@gmail.com> <99E493F6-B755-4C1D-9A0A-877BEF6583F2@gmail.com> <4773BD83-18DA-4542-8D9C-64C1DE6766F5@gmail.com> <31D71573-52A7-4CAB-83FD-69801BA12D34@pictoform.nu> <07591C54-B260-4B10-B4B1-F060E1F00EA8@gmail.com> <698491E0-6CC1-4F4A-9DDD-D55612740380@gmail.com> Message-ID: Nice work Marek and good luck Diana. Regards, Loris. 2013/6/1 Diana Bloomfield > Okay; thanks. And you did use separation negatives? My powered pigments > literally just arrived. I'm trying it this afternoon. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jun 1, 2013, at 10:34 AM, Marek Matusz wrote: > > > Diana, > > > > The only thing for brushing and spray development is that you will need > a longer exposure to begin with to have a more sturdy gum layer.. I would > double your normal exposure time and then play with it. > > > > Marek > > > >> From: dlhbloomfield at gmail.com > >> Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 17:30:56 -0400 > >> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > >> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Four color gum > >> > >> Hey Marek, > >> > >> Wow-- Thank you so much for sharing all these. I love them. I think > they're really wonderful and definitely have that look that's so appealing. > And thanks for all the details. I always use Quinacridone gold for my > yellows. For some reason, when I first started gum, I seemed to have > problems with various yellows-- except for that one. That's really > interesting/informative to see the process here, too. I love the gray/blue > of it all-- and just a hint of pink in those few. I look forward to trying > this. I had ordered some powdered lamp black-- but I do have graphite on > hand, so I might try it with what I have tomorrow. I'm thinking that the > brushing/spraying technique is a bit tricky(?)-- but this is very helpful. > Thanks. Really really like the look of these. > >> > >> Diana > >> > >> > >> On May 31, 2013, at 2:32 PM, Marek Matusz wrote: > >> > >>> > >>> > >>> All, Here is the link to my final set of pictures. All 3 prints are > done now. > https://plus.google.com/photos/105732508998271877151/albums/5882305049320410433My workflow was somewhat different from Chia's. I used graphite gray (which > comes as a nice neutral black on the print) for my fist black layer with K > negative. Then I decided to use RGB separations for added color. My blue > was cobalt blue (Daniel Smith). It is a very light, clean blue, which > suited me well since I was going for a tint rather then full color > saturation. I have included pictures of that stage. Then I added magenta > (quinacridone rose from DS). This turned out to be a bit more saturated > then I would like. For one of the images I have included two versions of > the print. One with just soak water development, perhaps 15 minutes and the > second image after spray development and brushing. I need to cut the > magenta concentration for my next project. I did do a lot of spraying and > brushing to remove parts of t > > he > >> i > >>> mage at every stage. For yellow I used Quinacridone gold PO49. It is > more muted then typical process yellow. Just one of the images (amaryllis) > contained a substantial yellow component and it blended very nicely with > PV19 for the coral red of the amaryllis. Finally another lighter graphite > layer to adjust (darken) background and add a touch of contrast in parts of > images. That was one intense printing week and I am very excited about the > images and the new printing workflow. I did try doing low saturation images > before and they always come muddy and just unpleasant. This workflow of > starting with a solid black layer is just amazing as it allowed me to > visualize the steps of adding hints of color while keeping solid and crisp > image. Thanks to Chia for sharing. Marek > From jorj at jorj.org Sat Jun 1 22:17:36 2013 From: jorj at jorj.org (Jorj Bauer) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 18:17:36 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: DAS from China In-Reply-To: <2D97B8EB-2F35-4456-8749-61489F8055F0@polychrome.nl> References: <571D0DEB-9E8A-41DE-9F1A-696E75217B87@jorj.org> <649073D9-063B-46A7-AEFB-DED2D70AE7F8@jorj.org> <2D97B8EB-2F35-4456-8749-61489F8055F0@polychrome.nl> Message-ID: > My carbon curves are all close to a a gamma 1 => 2.2 - 2.4 correction on the positive image. What printer are you using and what inkset? Did you use PK or MK for K? PK. Epson inks, on an Epson Stylus Pro 4000. But I know the epson drivers are using some cyan when they print "pure" black. (I could never be bothered with QTR.) I only know because my cyan inks were clogged and I didn't notice until I tried using the negatives, and they seriously failed to block UV. After a day of failed prints, I finally did a nozzle check and found the culprit. -- Jorj From dougcollins99 at gmail.com Sun Jun 2 12:02:58 2013 From: dougcollins99 at gmail.com (douglas collins) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 08:02:58 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] FW: HEllo! Message-ID: http://ibmaths.org/onqpotgr/spsccwejuwocatviafeacfatc.evqvra From workshops at polychrome.nl Sun Jun 2 13:04:13 2013 From: workshops at polychrome.nl (Kees Brandenburg) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 15:04:13 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: HEllo! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3BFB1670-DC96-430B-BD30-CACAF146CB05@polychrome.nl> On 2 jun. 2013, at 14:02, douglas collins wrote: link removed From workshops at polychrome.nl Sun Jun 2 13:06:10 2013 From: workshops at polychrome.nl (Kees Brandenburg) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 15:06:10 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: HEllo! In-Reply-To: <3BFB1670-DC96-430B-BD30-CACAF146CB05@polychrome.nl> References: <3BFB1670-DC96-430B-BD30-CACAF146CB05@polychrome.nl> Message-ID: <8EADDC59-9A38-4DAB-9D0F-C41FF88EE353@polychrome.nl> That last one went out to fast! I meant to say that I put this e-mailaddress on moderation because it looks like Doug's computer catched a virus. -kees From clara.tmsn at hotmail.com Mon Jun 3 13:40:16 2013 From: clara.tmsn at hotmail.com (Clara Tomasini) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 10:40:16 -0300 Subject: [Alt-photo] chemigrams chemicals Message-ID: Hi, I?m Clara and I?m a photographer from Argentina. Im starting to experiment with chemigrams and I wonder if you know the chemical composition of the activator and stabilizer. It?s impossible to find them here and also to ship them. So I decided to make my own. Thank you! Clara From jacqueskv at gmail.com Mon Jun 3 15:06:51 2013 From: jacqueskv at gmail.com (Jacques Kevers) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 17:06:51 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: chemigrams chemicals In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Clara, You might find some answers here: http://www.cchem.berkeley.edu/wljeme/Chapt6.html Jacques 2013/6/3 Clara Tomasini > Hi, > I?m Clara and I?m a photographer from Argentina. Im starting to experiment > with chemigrams and I wonder if you know the chemical composition of the > activator and stabilizer. It?s impossible to find them here and also to > ship them. So I decided to make my own. > Thank you! > Clara > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > From christinazanderson at gmail.com Mon Jun 3 15:49:41 2013 From: christinazanderson at gmail.com (Christina Anderson) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 08:49:41 -0700 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: chemigrams chemicals In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0EF115CC-62EE-40EB-8D98-8813ADEA3D37@gmail.com> Dear Clara, This might help. You use a developer in combination, and the developer that works great is also included. At time of use, I have best luck when the activator to stabilizer is 2:1. Chris Chemistry EcoPro (pH 10.35) Weight % Chemical Name 10?25 potassium carbonate 7?10 sodium sulfite 5?10 sodium isoascorbic 1?5 triethanolamine Arista Activator (pH 14) Weight % Chemical Name 5?10 potassium hydroxide 5?10 sodium sulfite Arista Stabilizer (pH 4.85) Weight % Chemical Name 15?20 ammonium thiocyanate 5?10 sodium metabisulfite 1?5 acetic acid Christina Z. Anderson christinaZanderson.com On Jun 3, 2013, at 6:40 AM, Clara Tomasini wrote: > Hi, > I?m Clara and I?m a photographer from Argentina. Im starting to experiment with chemigrams and I wonder if you know the chemical composition of the activator and stabilizer. It?s impossible to find them here and also to ship them. So I decided to make my own. > Thank you! > Clara > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From christinazanderson at gmail.com Mon Jun 3 17:15:57 2013 From: christinazanderson at gmail.com (Christina Anderson) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 10:15:57 -0700 Subject: [Alt-photo] sticker shock Message-ID: Dear All, Got a chance to visit Carmel CA and galleries there. First funny thing, was at one gallery there were a set of c-prints by some photographer and they were described as if they were some ancient process. Too funny, since it hasn't been that many years (2007) since we got rid of the color processor at school, but now have Jobos that the students are using to develop their own film and prints. Next was this great gallery, I think the oldest in Carmel, that had a lot of big names...and some gum prints! There was a largish monochrome gum of a landscape scene by Steichen, very dark, moody. It looked like 11x14 size. It was $875,000. If I bought it that day, the gallery would discount it $75,000. When I talked about it with the gallerist he was surprised I knew what a gum print was :) Wow. Chris Christina Z. Anderson christinaZanderson.com From eddy at altphoto.be Mon Jun 3 17:23:37 2013 From: eddy at altphoto.be (Eddy Willems) Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2013 19:23:37 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: chemigrams chemicals In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <51ACD119.4000905@altphoto.be> Are You referring to the proces of Pierre Cordier, http://pierrecordier.com/ you only need developer, fix and something that contains lot of sugar but see his site good luck Op 3/06/13 15:40, Clara Tomasini schreef: > Hi, > I?m Clara and I?m a photographer from Argentina. Im starting to experiment with chemigrams and I wonder if you know the chemical composition of the activator and stabilizer. It?s impossible to find them here and also to ship them. So I decided to make my own. > Thank you! > Clara > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > From eddy at altphoto.be Mon Jun 3 17:40:45 2013 From: eddy at altphoto.be (Eddy Willems) Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2013 19:40:45 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: chemigrams chemicals In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <51ACD51D.6040806@altphoto.be> ocalizing product**(1956) or resistCreates the forms in a chemigram. Ingredients found in painting's components : varnish, wax, oil, eggs as well as grease, glue, honey, apple syrup, adhesive, felt-tip pens, etc. Op 3/06/13 15:40, Clara Tomasini schreef: > Hi, > I?m Clara and I?m a photographer from Argentina. Im starting to experiment with chemigrams and I wonder if you know the chemical composition of the activator and stabilizer. It?s impossible to find them here and also to ship them. So I decided to make my own. > Thank you! > Clara > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > From ravene at gmail.com Mon Jun 3 19:35:53 2013 From: ravene at gmail.com (Ravene@gmail.com) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 12:35:53 -0700 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: sticker shock In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <17CBD331-0FF7-4A96-B62D-02324409B8C7@gmail.com> Clearly I've been under pricing my work! haha! I don't suppose you're going to submit some work to him. :) On Jun 3, 2013, at 10:15 AM, Christina Anderson wrote: > Dear All, > Got a chance to visit Carmel CA and galleries there. First funny thing, was at one gallery there were a set of c-prints by some photographer and they were described as if they were some ancient process. Too funny, since it hasn't been that many years (2007) since we got rid of the color processor at school, but now have Jobos that the students are using to develop their own film and prints. > Next was this great gallery, I think the oldest in Carmel, that had a lot of big names...and some gum prints! There was a largish monochrome gum of a landscape scene by Steichen, very dark, moody. It looked like 11x14 size. It was $875,000. If I bought it that day, the gallery would discount it $75,000. When I talked about it with the gallerist he was surprised I knew what a gum print was :) > Wow. > Chris > > Christina Z. Anderson > christinaZanderson.com > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From marekmatusz at hotmail.com Mon Jun 3 19:45:06 2013 From: marekmatusz at hotmail.com (Marek Matusz) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 14:45:06 -0500 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: sticker shock In-Reply-To: <17CBD331-0FF7-4A96-B62D-02324409B8C7@gmail.com> References: <17CBD331-0FF7-4A96-B62D-02324409B8C7@gmail.com> Message-ID: I just got a shipment of bfk rives paper for my gums. I am hooked on these low color saturation prints A la Chia I will be looking for buyers in 50-100 years Marek Sent from my iPhone On Jun 3, 2013, at 2:36 PM, "Ravene at gmail.com" wrote: > Clearly I've been under pricing my work! haha! > > I don't suppose you're going to submit some work to him. :) > > On Jun 3, 2013, at 10:15 AM, Christina Anderson wrote: > >> Dear All, >> Got a chance to visit Carmel CA and galleries there. First funny thing, was at one gallery there were a set of c-prints by some photographer and they were described as if they were some ancient process. Too funny, since it hasn't been that many years (2007) since we got rid of the color processor at school, but now have Jobos that the students are using to develop their own film and prints. >> Next was this great gallery, I think the oldest in Carmel, that had a lot of big names...and some gum prints! There was a largish monochrome gum of a landscape scene by Steichen, very dark, moody. It looked like 11x14 size. It was $875,000. If I bought it that day, the gallery would discount it $75,000. When I talked about it with the gallerist he was surprised I knew what a gum print was :) >> Wow. >> Chris >> >> Christina Z. Anderson >> christinaZanderson.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From gemeentehuis at gmail.com Mon Jun 3 21:29:28 2013 From: gemeentehuis at gmail.com (Bert Kuijer) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 23:29:28 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: sticker shock In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wait till I tell my kids this story. That old stuff I'm learning at Kees Brandenburg workshops these days is gonna pay for college for their grandchildren in a 100 years or so!!! 2013/6/3 Christina Anderson > Dear All, > Got a chance to visit Carmel CA and galleries there. First funny thing, > was at one gallery there were a set of c-prints by some photographer and > they were described as if they were some ancient process. Too funny, since > it hasn't been that many years (2007) since we got rid of the color > processor at school, but now have Jobos that the students are using to > develop their own film and prints. > Next was this great gallery, I think the oldest in Carmel, that had a lot > of big names...and some gum prints! There was a largish monochrome gum of a > landscape scene by Steichen, very dark, moody. It looked like 11x14 size. > It was $875,000. If I bought it that day, the gallery would discount it > $75,000. When I talked about it with the gallerist he was surprised I knew > what a gum print was :) > Wow. > Chris > > Christina Z. Anderson > christinaZanderson.com > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > From christinazanderson at gmail.com Tue Jun 4 16:26:37 2013 From: christinazanderson at gmail.com (Christina Anderson) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 09:26:37 -0700 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: sticker shock In-Reply-To: References: <17CBD331-0FF7-4A96-B62D-02324409B8C7@gmail.com> Message-ID: <0F10B171-9BAA-4F22-A601-55072F919469@gmail.com> Yes, Marek and Ravene at gmail.com, I am going to tell my children do not not NOT hold a garage sale and sell all my gum prints for a buck each after I die but keep them all. There's their nest egg. Wish I would have gotten the nerve to ask if I could be one of the artists in their stable but I didn't want to see him snicker. I was wondering if Steichen had a camera with film that big, or if he had made a print of the scene and then a neg of the print and used that as his negative, because it was definitely well over 8x10. I think this was the name of the gallery: http://www.westongallery.com/ Chris Christina Z. Anderson christinaZanderson.com On Jun 3, 2013, at 12:45 PM, Marek Matusz wrote: > I just got a shipment of bfk rives paper for my gums. I am hooked on these low color saturation prints A la Chia > I will be looking for buyers in 50-100 years > Marek > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jun 3, 2013, at 2:36 PM, "Ravene at gmail.com" wrote: > >> Clearly I've been under pricing my work! haha! >> >> I don't suppose you're going to submit some work to him. :) >> >> On Jun 3, 2013, at 10:15 AM, Christina Anderson wrote: >> >>> Dear All, >>> Got a chance to visit Carmel CA and galleries there. First funny thing, was at one gallery there were a set of c-prints by some photographer and they were described as if they were some ancient process. Too funny, since it hasn't been that many years (2007) since we got rid of the color processor at school, but now have Jobos that the students are using to develop their own film and prints. >>> Next was this great gallery, I think the oldest in Carmel, that had a lot of big names...and some gum prints! There was a largish monochrome gum of a landscape scene by Steichen, very dark, moody. It looked like 11x14 size. It was $875,000. If I bought it that day, the gallery would discount it $75,000. When I talked about it with the gallerist he was surprised I knew what a gum print was :) >>> Wow. >>> Chris >>> >>> Christina Z. Anderson >>> christinaZanderson.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >> _______________________________________________ >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From fotocmb at gmail.com Tue Jun 4 22:49:44 2013 From: fotocmb at gmail.com (Charles Berger) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 15:49:44 -0700 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: John Bentley Video In-Reply-To: <5197583A.3010003@gmail.com> References: <5197583A.3010003@gmail.com> Message-ID: John's prints are made using 11-22 micron Stochastic films produced under the supervision of Tod Gangler. Charles On Sat, May 18, 2013 at 3:30 AM, Greg Schmitz wrote: > Thanks for this Charles. I thought the video was a bit skimpy on details. > I did notice that John is printing much larger than 810 which was his > originating format (at least based on the video). Is he using lith or > digital to go large? > > When are you going to write a book about Ultrastable Charles? You really > should! > > --greg > > > On 5/17/13 10:12 PM, Charles Berger wrote: > >> Very cool video of photographer John Bladen Bentley of Toronto with his >> 8x10 Deardorff and his color carbon (UltraStable) prints: >> http://vimeo.com/65108090 >> ______________________________**_________________ >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/**mailman/listinfo >> > > ______________________________**_________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/**mailman/listinfo > From dougcollins99 at gmail.com Wed Jun 5 10:02:05 2013 From: dougcollins99 at gmail.com (douglas collins) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 06:02:05 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] chemigram chemicals Message-ID: Hi Clara, The stabilizer is ammonium thiocyanate, sodium metabisulfite, and acetic acid. You can get by with just the thiocyanate, and you can substitute sodium thiocyanate as well, if that's easier for you. The activator is potassium hydroxide and sodium sulfite. Again, you can get by with just the potassium hydroxide. Both products are available from Freestyle in Los Angeles; click on their link at the right side of our first blog page, www.nonfigurativephoto.blogspot.com. Good luck! -- douglas collins www.douglascollinspictures.com cell 646-678-0172 From bobkiss at caribsurf.com Wed Jun 5 14:48:02 2013 From: bobkiss at caribsurf.com (BOB KISS) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 10:48:02 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Q FOR SERDAR was LANA AQUARELLE; ACIDIFY? In-Reply-To: <0bd001ce5d67$d63fe790$82bfb6b0$@gmail.com> References: <0bd001ce5d67$d63fe790$82bfb6b0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: DEAR SERDAR, From your statements below saying that acidification was not necessary for albumen prints, can I assume that it would not be necessary for salt prints either? CHEERS! BOB -----Original Message----- From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of Serdar Bilici Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 3:00 PM To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: LANA AQUARELLE; ACIDIFY? Hi Bob, I have recently tried sullivan's traditional cyanotype formula(includes oxalic acid and amm. dichromate) with sulfamic acid treated papers and the results were dramatically better compared to untreated/buffered papers. If you are doing new cyanotype (Mike Ware's formula), sulfamic acid treatment (de-alkalising procedure) is a necessary step. I guess acid treatment/de-alkalizing is a must for pt/pd process with lanaquarelle paper. It won't be necessary for albumen. Regards Serdar -----Original Message----- From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of BOB KISS Sent: 30 May?s 2013 Per?embe 21:45 To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org Subject: [Alt-photo] LANA AQUARELLE; ACIDIFY? DEAR LIST, I just bought some of what B&S calls Lana Aquarelle 140 lb from B&S. The info sheet in the pack says that it should be acidified. Is this the same paper to which many of you refer as Lanaquarelle? I print mostly pt/pd, cyano, salt and albumen. For which (or all>) of these processes should the paper be acidified? I just bought all>an lb of sulfamic acid from a local chem supplier so, "Have sulfamic. Will acidify!" if necessary. THANKS! CHEERS! BOB Please check my website: http://www.bobkiss.com/ "Live as if you are going to die tomorrow. Learn as if you are going to live forever". Mahatma Gandhi "Earth" without "art" is just "Eh"! (Anonymous graffiti posted on Facebook) "Madonne e fiori, trionfo eterno di giovent?!" from Mattinata Fiorentina by Antonella Ruggiero __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 8394 (20130530) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo _______________________________________________ Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 8394 (20130530) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From sbilici at gmail.com Wed Jun 5 20:45:07 2013 From: sbilici at gmail.com (Serdar Bilici) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 23:45:07 +0300 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Q FOR SERDAR was LANA AQUARELLE; ACIDIFY? In-Reply-To: References: <0bd001ce5d67$d63fe790$82bfb6b0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <002b01ce622d$91c76fa0$b5564ee0$@gmail.com> Hi Bob, No it won't be necessary, because the chemicals are suspended inside the gelatin layer or the albumen layer. Alkalinity of the paper does not effect (or its effects are negligible let's say). Lana aquarelle as far as I know is buffered but not excessively. If you are not using gelatin for salt prints, there might be fogging problems, but it can be averted with citric acid addition before coating with silver nitrate. Regards Serdar -----Original Message----- From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of BOB KISS Sent: 05 Haziran 2013 ?ar?amba 17:48 To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Q FOR SERDAR was LANA AQUARELLE; ACIDIFY? DEAR SERDAR, From your statements below saying that acidification was not necessary for albumen prints, can I assume that it would not be necessary for salt prints either? CHEERS! BOB -----Original Message----- From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of Serdar Bilici Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 3:00 PM To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: LANA AQUARELLE; ACIDIFY? Hi Bob, I have recently tried sullivan's traditional cyanotype formula(includes oxalic acid and amm. dichromate) with sulfamic acid treated papers and the results were dramatically better compared to untreated/buffered papers. If you are doing new cyanotype (Mike Ware's formula), sulfamic acid treatment (de-alkalising procedure) is a necessary step. I guess acid treatment/de-alkalizing is a must for pt/pd process with lanaquarelle paper. It won't be necessary for albumen. Regards Serdar -----Original Message----- From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of BOB KISS Sent: 30 May?s 2013 Per?embe 21:45 To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org Subject: [Alt-photo] LANA AQUARELLE; ACIDIFY? DEAR LIST, I just bought some of what B&S calls Lana Aquarelle 140 lb from B&S. The info sheet in the pack says that it should be acidified. Is this the same paper to which many of you refer as Lanaquarelle? I print mostly pt/pd, cyano, salt and albumen. For which (or all>) of these processes should the paper be acidified? I just bought all>an lb of sulfamic acid from a local chem supplier so, "Have sulfamic. Will acidify!" if necessary. THANKS! CHEERS! BOB Please check my website: http://www.bobkiss.com/ "Live as if you are going to die tomorrow. Learn as if you are going to live forever". Mahatma Gandhi "Earth" without "art" is just "Eh"! (Anonymous graffiti posted on Facebook) "Madonne e fiori, trionfo eterno di giovent?!" from Mattinata Fiorentina by Antonella Ruggiero __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 8394 (20130530) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo _______________________________________________ Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 8394 (20130530) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From mjkoskin at gmail.com Fri Jun 7 00:53:28 2013 From: mjkoskin at gmail.com (Matti Koskinen) Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2013 03:53:28 +0300 Subject: [Alt-photo] casein on glass Message-ID: <51B12F08.7030907@gmail.com> hi, I've been long enough a consumer and not a producer, so I wrote a page of my casein method. It's on http://www.mattikoskinenphoto.com/casein Thanks to all, especially Jorj, who directed me using glass as a substrate. And a question: What are the names for CMY-colours, I think C is Prussian Blue, but M and Y? I'm using acrylic paints. thanks -matti From jorj at jorj.org Fri Jun 7 01:56:29 2013 From: jorj at jorj.org (Jorj Bauer) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 21:56:29 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: casein on glass In-Reply-To: <51B12F08.7030907@gmail.com> References: <51B12F08.7030907@gmail.com> Message-ID: <2DB5697E-126A-4EB5-A15C-E3701633D845@jorj.org> > I've been long enough a consumer and not a producer, so I wrote a page of my casein method. It's on http://www.mattikoskinenphoto.com/casein Looks like you're off to a great start! I'm glad to see someone else performing this process. My prints are really striking when backlit, and I bet yours are too. I might recommend that you register your negatives to the edges of the glass, since you noticed problems with the registration. And I'd also recommend that you try printing on both the front and back of the pane of glass, rather than double-printing on one side. If you double-print, you wind up washing away some of the detail of the first print when you brush on the second coat of casein (creating a higher-contrast layer in the process). If you print on the backside of an already-printed pane of glass, you can carefully wash it (I rest mine on top of two sponges supporting the pane of glass in the tray) and not affect the quality of the first printing. > And a question: What are the names for CMY-colours, I think C is Prussian Blue, but M and Y? I'm using acrylic paints. I use Schmincke pigments: C: helio cerulean M: permanent carmine Y: translucent yellow I've also used cadmium yellow (when I want the day-glow look), or pthalo blue (for a more glow-y cyan). And occasionally I use W&N's permanent carmine (when it's cheaper than Schmincke's at the local art store). -- Jorj From mjkoskin at gmail.com Fri Jun 7 08:21:57 2013 From: mjkoskin at gmail.com (Matti Koskinen) Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2013 11:21:57 +0300 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: casein on glass In-Reply-To: <2DB5697E-126A-4EB5-A15C-E3701633D845@jorj.org> References: <51B12F08.7030907@gmail.com> <2DB5697E-126A-4EB5-A15C-E3701633D845@jorj.org> Message-ID: <51B19825.5060801@gmail.com> On 7.6.2013 4:56, Jorj Bauer wrote: >> I've been long enough a consumer and not a producer, so I wrote a page of my casein method. It's on http://www.mattikoskinenphoto.com/casein > Looks like you're off to a great start! I'm glad to see someone else performing this process. My prints are really striking when backlit, and I bet yours are too. Yep, in summer of 2011 I started to experiment, tempera and casein, when I got dichromate. Long before that, 2002 probably a big pharmacy could order dichromate, but when I asked them, they said it's not available any longer. But my cyano-chemical supplier hopeavedos.fi had dichromate luckily, so I ordered a small amount. And making a small bottle of saturated solution, doesn't need much of dichromate. > > I might recommend that you register your negatives to the edges of the glass, since you noticed problems with the registration. And I'd also recommend that you try printing on both the front and back of the pane of glass, rather than double-printing on one side. If you double-print, you wind up washing away some of the detail of the first print when you brush on the second coat of casein (creating a higher-contrast layer in the process). If you print on the backside of an already-printed pane of glass, you can carefully wash it (I rest mine on top of two sponges supporting the pane of glass in the tray) and not affect the quality of the first printing. I tried registration using edges of the negative and the glass, but still there were small errors. So this made me experiment doing double coating and one exposure. The dmax is quite acceptable. >> And a question: What are the names for CMY-colours, I think C is Prussian Blue, but M and Y? I'm using acrylic paints. > I use Schmincke pigments: > > C: helio cerulean > M: permanent carmine > Y: translucent yellow > > I've also used cadmium yellow (when I want the day-glow look), or pthalo blue (for a more glow-y cyan). > > And occasionally I use W&N's permanent carmine (when it's cheaper than Schmincke's at the local art store). > > -- Jorj > thanks, the world of colour is the next thing to try. -matti From altguido at gmail.com Fri Jun 7 12:38:09 2013 From: altguido at gmail.com (Guido Ceuppens) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 14:38:09 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: casein on glass In-Reply-To: <51B19825.5060801@gmail.com> References: <51B12F08.7030907@gmail.com> <2DB5697E-126A-4EB5-A15C-E3701633D845@jorj.org> <51B19825.5060801@gmail.com> Message-ID: Very interesting work! If I want transparent acrylic colors with casein (I think you may want that for back-lit photographs on glass) I use Winsor&Newton Galeria acrylic paints : C = (Cyan) Winsor Blue PB15 M = (Magenta) Crimson PR170 Y = (Yellow) Transparent yellow PY150 These are all single-pigment colors and reasonably transparent. Guido www.guidoceuppens.be 2013/6/7 Matti Koskinen > On 7.6.2013 4:56, Jorj Bauer wrote: > >> I've been long enough a consumer and not a producer, so I wrote a page of >>> my casein method. It's on http://www.mattikoskinenphoto.**com/casein >>> >> Looks like you're off to a great start! I'm glad to see someone else >> performing this process. My prints are really striking when backlit, and I >> bet yours are too. >> > Yep, in summer of 2011 I started to experiment, tempera and casein, when I > got dichromate. Long before that, 2002 probably a big pharmacy could order > dichromate, but when I asked them, they said it's not available any longer. > But my cyano-chemical supplier hopeavedos.fi had dichromate luckily, so I > ordered a small amount. And making a small bottle of saturated solution, > doesn't need much of dichromate. > > >> I might recommend that you register your negatives to the edges of the >> glass, since you noticed problems with the registration. And I'd also >> recommend that you try printing on both the front and back of the pane of >> glass, rather than double-printing on one side. If you double-print, you >> wind up washing away some of the detail of the first print when you brush >> on the second coat of casein (creating a higher-contrast layer in the >> process). If you print on the backside of an already-printed pane of glass, >> you can carefully wash it (I rest mine on top of two sponges supporting the >> pane of glass in the tray) and not affect the quality of the first printing. >> > I tried registration using edges of the negative and the glass, but still > there were small errors. So this made me experiment doing double coating > and one exposure. The dmax is quite acceptable. > > And a question: What are the names for CMY-colours, I think C is Prussian >>> Blue, but M and Y? I'm using acrylic paints. >>> >> I use Schmincke pigments: >> >> C: helio cerulean >> M: permanent carmine >> Y: translucent yellow >> >> I've also used cadmium yellow (when I want the day-glow look), or pthalo >> blue (for a more glow-y cyan). >> >> And occasionally I use W&N's permanent carmine (when it's cheaper than >> Schmincke's at the local art store). >> >> -- Jorj >> >> thanks, the world of colour is the next thing to try. > > -matti > > ______________________________**_________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/**mailman/listinfo > From mjkoskin at gmail.com Fri Jun 7 16:25:02 2013 From: mjkoskin at gmail.com (Matti Koskinen) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 19:25:02 +0300 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: casein on glass In-Reply-To: References: <51B12F08.7030907@gmail.com> <2DB5697E-126A-4EB5-A15C-E3701633D845@jorj.org> <51B19825.5060801@gmail.com> Message-ID: <9A784889-FDED-48B4-9EDD-9F9500EAC240@gmail.com> On Jun 7, 2013, at 3:38 PM, Guido Ceuppens wrote: > Very interesting work! > If I want transparent acrylic colors with casein (I think you may want that > for back-lit photographs on glass) I use Winsor&Newton Galeria acrylic > paints : > C = (Cyan) Winsor Blue PB15 > M = (Magenta) Crimson PR170 > Y = (Yellow) Transparent yellow PY150 > These are all single-pigment colors and reasonably transparent. > Guido > www.guidoceuppens.be > thanks Guido! I think it was you, who mentioned acrylics as pigment for casein prints. I've tried gouache, but haven't exactly found the right amount, so with acrylic process black, the drop is right on the spot, more starts to flake. I have printed with inkjet < 50 prints in colour, but > 10000 in B&W, so it's time to do casein prints in colour! W&N is readily available from the tiny window glass, windshield, framing and art store in my neighbourhood. And I get artist's discount, so I'll try to see, if they have these colours off-the-shelf. thanks -matti From mail at loris.medici.name Mon Jun 10 07:07:06 2013 From: mail at loris.medici.name (Loris Medici) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 10:07:06 +0300 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Argyrotype on Fabriano Artistico Extra White Soft Press 300gsm (140lb) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi all, A new print from this weekend, again on FAEW/SP. It's a small one (15x12cm / ?~5.9x4.7"), the humidity is high recently (around 60%), therefore the image color is much much more neutral than previous prints made at lower humidity. (Around 45%...) Toned with diluted gold-thiourea toner. Image detail is fine despite the small size combined with the texture from the paper. FAEW/SP paper's texture is just about right; not too much to chop too much detail, but still has texture. Best parts of both worlds... See here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/loris-medici/9000137718/lightbox/ Regards, Loris. 2013/5/28 Loris Medici > Hi all, > > I finally managed > ? ? > ?to make a *real* 2+1 diluted Argyrotype print on Fabriano Artistico Extra > White paper (which was de-alkalized with sulfamic acid), see the result > below: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/loris-medici/8870289247/ (Same photo for > sake of comparison...) > > Once tamed with sulfamic acid, this paper is a real delight combined with > the absolute lack of reluctance shown by 2+1 diluted Argyrotype. BTW, the > image is not cold / neutral or even split toned because I use diluted > toner; 40ml fresh toner + 360ml used toner, image size 8x10"... > > Regards, > Loris. > > > > 2013/5/20 Loris Medici > >> Hi all, >> >> This is just for the records; I managed to get smooth Argyrotype test >> prints on FAEW/SP (de-alkalized with sulfamic acid), which have good dmax >> and won't show any bronzing or unevenness to the naked eye. >> >> See my working parameters below: >> (These may help as a starting point for some of you...) >> - 2+1 diluted sensitizer >> - 0.25ml coating solution per 10 sq. in. (brush coating) >> - 2 drops 10% Tween 20 per ml of coating solution >> - Drying time: 60 minutes @ 23C / 50% RH >> - Gold-thiourea toning >> >> See the result here: >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/loris-medici/8757864351/ >> >> That's all from my part, I'll continue to the calibration and do my first >> real print on this paper in a couple of days. Done with testing / tech >> talk, lots of printing from now on... >> >> Regards, >> Loris. >> > From jean.daubas at wanadoo.fr Mon Jun 10 10:33:36 2013 From: jean.daubas at wanadoo.fr (Jean Daubas) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 12:33:36 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Important rebates (50%) on prices of Fabriano Artistico in France and Germany In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <838E34DCD0004E93B5E3913F7447F9C0@Jeandesktop> Hi all, Regarding the recent discussions about Fabriano Artistico papers (especially about the FA Extra White soft 300g/sm) and the general appraisal of these papers, I wanted to share with you (mostly the European members of the list), an opportunity to buy all Fabriano papers at very reduced prices before the end of June. ?Le g?ant des Beaux-arts? ( a very large supplier of all art products) offers all the Fabriano range of products with rebates going from 40% minimum to 50 % . For xample, for all the Fabriano Artistico range including FAEW soft, the rebate is 50 % until the end of June. Here is the link to the Fabriano artistico Extra white page: http://www.geant-beaux-arts.fr/Papiers-pour-l-aquarelle/Papier-aquarelle-Fabriano-a-bords-franges-Blanc-intense.html Extra white soft exists in 300g/sm and 640 g/sm: items # 3-17000 and # 3-170001 Here is the home link to this supplier : http://www.geant-beaux-arts.fr/ I understand that this information will mainly interest French speaking European members of the list . Knowing that ?Le g?ant des Beaux-Arts? is a marketing subsidiary of the very large German suplier of art products ?Gerstaecker?, I had the idea to check whether there were also bargains on Fabriano Artistico on the Gerstaecker site. And I found 33% rebates on all Fabriano Artistico products. Here it is: http://www.gerstaecker.de/shop/unser-angebot/malgruende-papier/aquarellpapier-bogen-rolle/fabriano-artistico-extraweiss-buetten-aquarellkarton-online-kaufen-bei-gerstaecker.de-11301a and the home link is: http://www.gerstaecker.de/ So, I hope this will be useful for our German speaking European members! Hope it helps, Alternative cheers from France, Jean From mail at loris.medici.name Mon Jun 10 10:49:00 2013 From: mail at loris.medici.name (Loris Medici) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 13:49:00 +0300 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Important rebates (50%) on prices of Fabriano Artistico in France and Germany In-Reply-To: <838E34DCD0004E93B5E3913F7447F9C0@Jeandesktop> References: <838E34DCD0004E93B5E3913F7447F9C0@Jeandesktop> Message-ID: This is a really nice price Jean; it's about what I was paying (here in Turkey) three years ago. Paper prices got very high in the recent years! For instance, current best price (in Istanbul) for a single 300gsm 56x76cm (22x30") sheet is ~ EUR 4.50 (18% VAT included), and most stores are selling it for EUR 7.00!!! (Kind of theft to me...) Regards, Loris. 2013/6/10 Jean Daubas > Hi all, > Regarding the recent discussions about Fabriano Artistico papers > (especially about the FA Extra White soft 300g/sm) and the general > appraisal of these papers, I wanted to share with you (mostly the European > members of the list), an opportunity to buy all Fabriano papers at very > reduced prices before the end of June. > ?Le g?ant des Beaux-arts? ( a very large supplier of all art products) > offers all the Fabriano range of products with rebates going from 40% > minimum to 50 % . > For xample, for all the Fabriano Artistico range including FAEW soft, the > rebate is 50 % until the end of June. > Here is the link to the Fabriano artistico Extra white page: > > http://www.geant-beaux-arts.fr/Papiers-pour-l-aquarelle/Papier-aquarelle-Fabriano-a-bords-franges-Blanc-intense.html > Extra white soft exists in 300g/sm and 640 g/sm: items # 3-17000 and # > 3-170001 > Here is the home link to this supplier : > http://www.geant-beaux-arts.fr/ > I understand that this information will mainly interest French speaking > European members of the list . > Knowing that ?Le g?ant des Beaux-Arts? is a marketing subsidiary of the > very large German suplier of art products ?Gerstaecker?, I had the idea to > check whether there were also bargains on Fabriano Artistico on the > Gerstaecker site. > And I found 33% rebates on all Fabriano Artistico products. Here it is: > > http://www.gerstaecker.de/shop/unser-angebot/malgruende-papier/aquarellpapier-bogen-rolle/fabriano-artistico-extraweiss-buetten-aquarellkarton-online-kaufen-bei-gerstaecker.de-11301a > and the home link is: > http://www.gerstaecker.de/ > So, I hope this will be useful for our German speaking European members! > Hope it helps, > Alternative cheers from France, > Jean > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From dingedangedonge at yahoo.fr Mon Jun 10 10:57:55 2013 From: dingedangedonge at yahoo.fr (ding dangdong) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 11:57:55 +0100 (BST) Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Important rebates (50%) on prices of Fabriano Artistico in France and Germany In-Reply-To: <838E34DCD0004E93B5E3913F7447F9C0@Jeandesktop> References: <838E34DCD0004E93B5E3913F7447F9C0@Jeandesktop> Message-ID: <1370861875.22602.YahooMailNeo@web28903.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Thanks a lot Jean!? I'm no french speaking member but i happen to live near their 13th arrondissement branch. My stock of Fabriano AEW have not moved much but i paln to do a large print batch come summer. ?Off to shop i go!? Merci encore!? ________________________________ De?: Jean Daubas ??: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org Envoy? le : Lundi 10 juin 2013 12h33 Objet?: [Alt-photo] Important rebates (50%) on prices of Fabriano Artistico in France and Germany Hi all, Regarding the recent discussions about Fabriano Artistico papers (especially about the FA Extra White soft 300g/sm) and the general appraisal of these papers, I wanted to share with you (mostly the European members of the list), an opportunity to buy all Fabriano papers at very reduced prices before the end of June. ?Le g?ant des Beaux-arts? ( a very large supplier of all art products)? offers all the Fabriano range of products with rebates going from 40% minimum to 50 % . For xample, for all the Fabriano Artistico range including FAEW soft, the rebate is 50 % until the end of June. Here is the link to the Fabriano artistico Extra white page: ? ? http://www.geant-beaux-arts.fr/Papiers-pour-l-aquarelle/Papier-aquarelle-Fabriano-a-bords-franges-Blanc-intense.html Extra white soft exists in 300g/sm and 640 g/sm: items? # 3-17000 and # 3-170001 Here is the home link to this supplier : ? ? http://www.geant-beaux-arts.fr/ I understand that this information will mainly interest French speaking European members of the list . Knowing that ?Le g?ant des Beaux-Arts? is a marketing subsidiary of the very large German suplier of art products ?Gerstaecker?, I had the idea to check whether there were also bargains on Fabriano Artistico on? the Gerstaecker site. And I found 33% rebates on all Fabriano Artistico products. Here it is: ? ? http://www.gerstaecker.de/shop/unser-angebot/malgruende-papier/aquarellpapier-bogen-rolle/fabriano-artistico-extraweiss-buetten-aquarellkarton-online-kaufen-bei-gerstaecker.de-11301a and the home link is: ? ? http://www.gerstaecker.de/ So, I hope this will be useful for our German speaking European members! Hope it helps, Alternative cheers from France, ? ? Jean _______________________________________________ Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From gemeentehuis at gmail.com Mon Jun 10 12:24:00 2013 From: gemeentehuis at gmail.com (Bert Kuijer) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 14:24:00 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Important rebates (50%) on prices of Fabriano Artistico in France and Germany In-Reply-To: <838E34DCD0004E93B5E3913F7447F9C0@Jeandesktop> References: <838E34DCD0004E93B5E3913F7447F9C0@Jeandesktop> Message-ID: Hi Jean, Supplier Gerstaecker is available in several countries: - Germany: http://www.gerstaecker.de - Switzerland: http://www.gerstaecker.ch - Austria: http://www.gerstaecker.at - The Netherlands: http://www.gerstaecker.nl You can switch between sites by choosing the correct flag in top of the right corner to choose the correct country. May save you some extra shipping costs if you are in/near one of these countries. They all seem to have 33% discount until July 1st, 2013 on: - Fabriano Artisico - extra white - Fabriano Artistico - traditional white - Fabriano Disegno 5, and a lot of other Fabriano papers ;-) "Have fun and catch that light beam!" Bert from Holland http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup 2013/6/10 Jean Daubas > Hi all, > Regarding the recent discussions about Fabriano Artistico papers > (especially about the FA Extra White soft 300g/sm) and the general > appraisal of these papers, I wanted to share with you (mostly the European > members of the list), an opportunity to buy all Fabriano papers at very > reduced prices before the end of June (...) > From christinazanderson at gmail.com Mon Jun 10 15:48:54 2013 From: christinazanderson at gmail.com (Christina Anderson) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 09:48:54 -0600 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Argyrotype on Fabriano Artistico Extra White Soft Press 300gsm (140lb) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0CFCAAD9-A3F9-4727-A2B2-24D6C7EEFA61@gmail.com> Beautiful highlight detail!! Chris Christina Z. Anderson christinaZanderson.com On Jun 10, 2013, at 1:07 AM, Loris Medici wrote: > Hi all, > > A new print from this weekend, again on FAEW/SP. It's a small one (15x12cm > / ?~5.9x4.7"), the humidity is high recently (around 60%), therefore the > image color is much much more neutral than previous prints made at lower > humidity. (Around 45%...) Toned with diluted gold-thiourea toner. Image > detail is fine despite the small size combined with the texture from the > paper. FAEW/SP paper's texture is just about right; not too much to chop > too much detail, but still has texture. Best parts of both worlds... > > See here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/loris-medici/9000137718/lightbox/ > > Regards, > Loris. > > > > 2013/5/28 Loris Medici > >> Hi all, >> >> I finally managed >> ? ? >> ?to make a *real* 2+1 diluted Argyrotype print on Fabriano Artistico Extra >> White paper (which was de-alkalized with sulfamic acid), see the result >> below: >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/loris-medici/8870289247/ (Same photo for >> sake of comparison...) >> >> Once tamed with sulfamic acid, this paper is a real delight combined with >> the absolute lack of reluctance shown by 2+1 diluted Argyrotype. BTW, the >> image is not cold / neutral or even split toned because I use diluted >> toner; 40ml fresh toner + 360ml used toner, image size 8x10"... >> >> Regards, >> Loris. >> >> >> >> 2013/5/20 Loris Medici >> >>> Hi all, >>> >>> This is just for the records; I managed to get smooth Argyrotype test >>> prints on FAEW/SP (de-alkalized with sulfamic acid), which have good dmax >>> and won't show any bronzing or unevenness to the naked eye. >>> >>> See my working parameters below: >>> (These may help as a starting point for some of you...) >>> - 2+1 diluted sensitizer >>> - 0.25ml coating solution per 10 sq. in. (brush coating) >>> - 2 drops 10% Tween 20 per ml of coating solution >>> - Drying time: 60 minutes @ 23C / 50% RH >>> - Gold-thiourea toning >>> >>> See the result here: >>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/loris-medici/8757864351/ >>> >>> That's all from my part, I'll continue to the calibration and do my first >>> real print on this paper in a couple of days. Done with testing / tech >>> talk, lots of printing from now on... >>> >>> Regards, >>> Loris. >>> >> > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From mail at loris.medici.name Tue Jun 11 11:03:48 2013 From: mail at loris.medici.name (Loris Medici) Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 14:03:48 +0300 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Argyrotype on Fabriano Artistico Extra White Soft Press 300gsm (140lb) In-Reply-To: <0CFCAAD9-A3F9-4727-A2B2-24D6C7EEFA61@gmail.com> References: <0CFCAAD9-A3F9-4727-A2B2-24D6C7EEFA61@gmail.com> Message-ID: Thanks Christina, I like very much the results I can get; just want to shoot more and more new images so I can print them! :) Regards, Loris. 2013/6/10 Christina Anderson > Beautiful highlight detail!! > Chris > Christina Z. Anderson > christinaZanderson.com > > On Jun 10, 2013, at 1:07 AM, Loris Medici wrote: > > > Hi all, > > > > A new print from this weekend, again on FAEW/SP. It's a small one > (15x12cm > > / ?~5.9x4.7"), the humidity is high recently (around 60%), therefore the > > image color is much much more neutral than previous prints made at lower > > humidity. (Around 45%...) Toned with diluted gold-thiourea toner. Image > > detail is fine despite the small size combined with the texture from the > > paper. FAEW/SP paper's texture is just about right; not too much to chop > > too much detail, but still has texture. Best parts of both worlds... > > > > See here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/loris-medici/9000137718/lightbox/ > > > > Regards, > > Loris. > > > > > > > > 2013/5/28 Loris Medici > > > >> Hi all, > >> > >> I finally managed > >> ? ? > >> ?to make a *real* 2+1 diluted Argyrotype print on Fabriano Artistico > Extra > >> White paper (which was de-alkalized with sulfamic acid), see the result > >> below: > >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/loris-medici/8870289247/ (Same photo for > >> sake of comparison...) > >> > >> Once tamed with sulfamic acid, this paper is a real delight combined > with > >> the absolute lack of reluctance shown by 2+1 diluted Argyrotype. BTW, > the > >> image is not cold / neutral or even split toned because I use diluted > >> toner; 40ml fresh toner + 360ml used toner, image size 8x10"... > >> > >> Regards, > >> Loris. > >> > >> > >> > >> 2013/5/20 Loris Medici > >> > >>> Hi all, > >>> > >>> This is just for the records; I managed to get smooth Argyrotype test > >>> prints on FAEW/SP (de-alkalized with sulfamic acid), which have good > dmax > >>> and won't show any bronzing or unevenness to the naked eye. > >>> > >>> See my working parameters below: > >>> (These may help as a starting point for some of you...) > >>> - 2+1 diluted sensitizer > >>> - 0.25ml coating solution per 10 sq. in. (brush coating) > >>> - 2 drops 10% Tween 20 per ml of coating solution > >>> - Drying time: 60 minutes @ 23C / 50% RH > >>> - Gold-thiourea toning > >>> > >>> See the result here: > >>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/loris-medici/8757864351/ > >>> > >>> That's all from my part, I'll continue to the calibration and do my > first > >>> real print on this paper in a couple of days. Done with testing / tech > >>> talk, lots of printing from now on... > >>> > >>> Regards, > >>> Loris. > >>> > >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > From dickburk at ix.netcom.com Wed Jun 12 07:44:16 2013 From: dickburk at ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow) Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 00:44:16 -0700 Subject: [Alt-photo] Test message References: <516F6305.2030301@ieee.org> Message-ID: I've tried something to see if I can get the list via e-mail. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickburk at ix.netcom.com From marekmatusz at hotmail.com Wed Jun 12 13:03:32 2013 From: marekmatusz at hotmail.com (Marek Matusz) Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 08:03:32 -0500 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Test message In-Reply-To: References: <516F6305.2030301@ieee.org> Message-ID: Got it and reply Marek Sent from my iPhone On Jun 12, 2013, at 2:44 AM, "Richard Knoppow" wrote: > I've tried something to see if I can get the list via e-mail. > > > -- > Richard Knoppow > Los Angeles > WB6KBL > dickburk at ix.netcom.com > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From dickburk at ix.netcom.com Wed Jun 12 22:42:39 2013 From: dickburk at ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow) Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 15:42:39 -0700 Subject: [Alt-photo] Yet another test Message-ID: To see if messages sent via my "dickburk" subscription are sent to the ARRL reflector. I know others can see these messages, I am testing to see if they are forwarded to me. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickburk at ix.netcom.com From 1oldlens1 at ix.netcom.com Wed Jun 12 22:47:58 2013 From: 1oldlens1 at ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow) Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 15:47:58 -0700 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Yet another test References: Message-ID: ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Knoppow" To: Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 3:42 PM Subject: [Alt-photo] Yet another test > To see if messages sent via my "dickburk" subscription > are sent to the ARRL reflector. > I know others can see these messages, I am testing to see > if they are forwarded to me. > Whoopy!!!! It came through. I don't have to look at the archive constantly to keep up. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickburk at ix.netcom.com From emanphoto at gmail.com Sat Jun 15 18:14:03 2013 From: emanphoto at gmail.com (eric nelson) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 01:14:03 +0700 Subject: [Alt-photo] Awagami International Miniature Print Exhibition Message-ID: http://miniprint.awagami.jp/index.html -- Eric Nelson Photography 086 343 1612 http://ericnelsonphoto.tumblr.com/ https://www.facebook.com/EricNelsonPhotographyBangkok From marekmatusz at hotmail.com Mon Jun 17 01:33:24 2013 From: marekmatusz at hotmail.com (Marek Matusz) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 01:33:24 +0000 Subject: [Alt-photo] Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: All Happy Father's day to all alt fathers. I do have a tip for printing on Epson printers, mine is 3800, but others might apply. I feel silly for "discovering " it only after years of printing. I have been working on another set of low color saturation gums (a la Chia) and printing 4 negatives each. At 11x14 size pictorico was too much in terms of cost so I was using Ultrafine Crystal CLear transparency. However some of my negatives were coming out in different size. It was curios as some of them were just narrower by a quarter of an inch (something that I only discovered during printing). Strangely enough the negative was cut off (or it's printing was cut off) so that they still matched perfectly, but left a stripe of unprinted layer on the paper. Today I came across a negative that was about 3/8 inch narrower. I really could not tell what was happening. As of some time I was putting a piece of blue painter's tape at the edge of transparency (bottom) to make sure that the printer will recognize the transparency as paper to feed it. Ultrafine transparency comes with a white tape stripe along the long edge of the sheet. I was always feeding it at the right edge of the printer (as you are looking at the front of it) thinking that that where the sensor is looking for an edge of the paper. I guess I was wrong. As soon as I placed the white stripe on the left I got a consistent print (just like it would be on paper). No need to add another tape edge along the short side. It took me so many years to fix this intermittent problem. The other trick is to increase platen gap from a standard setting. I was seeing some stripes on the prints (venetian blinds) and as soon as I increased platen gap they went away. I think this was mentioned a couple times over the years, but I never felt the need to apply that. Anyways I finished 4 sets of negatives (4 negatives per print) and printed black layer. A very productive weekend. Marek From frangst at gmail.com Mon Jun 17 04:45:31 2013 From: frangst at gmail.com (francis schanberger) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 00:45:31 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thank you Marek for sharing. -Francis On Sunday, June 16, 2013, Marek Matusz wrote: > > > All Happy Father's day to all alt fathers. I do have a tip for printing on > Epson printers, mine is 3800, but others might apply. I feel silly for > "discovering " it only after years of printing. I have been working on > another set of low color saturation gums (a la Chia) and printing 4 > negatives each. At 11x14 size pictorico was too much in terms of cost so I > was using Ultrafine Crystal CLear transparency. However some of my > negatives were coming out in different size. It was curios as some of them > were just narrower by a quarter of an inch (something that I only > discovered during printing). Strangely enough the negative was cut off (or > it's printing was cut off) so that they still matched perfectly, but left a > stripe of unprinted layer on the paper. Today I came across a negative that > was about 3/8 inch narrower. I really could not tell what was happening. As > of some time I was putting a piece of blue painter's tape at the edge of > transparency (bottom) to make sure that the pr > inter will recognize the transparency as paper to feed it. Ultrafine > transparency comes with a white tape stripe along the long edge of the > sheet. I was always feeding it at the right edge of the printer (as you are > looking at the front of it) thinking that that where the sensor is looking > for an edge of the paper. I guess I was wrong. As soon as I placed the > white stripe on the left I got a consistent print (just like it would be on > paper). No need to add another tape edge along the short side. It took me > so many years to fix this intermittent problem. The other trick is to > increase platen gap from a standard setting. I was seeing some stripes on > the prints (venetian blinds) and as soon as I increased platen gap they > went away. I think this was mentioned a couple times over the years, but I > never felt the need to apply that. Anyways I finished 4 sets of negatives > (4 negatives per print) and printed black layer. A very productive weekend. > Marek > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > -- francis schanberger www.francisschanberger.com From workshops at polychrome.nl Mon Jun 17 09:03:17 2013 From: workshops at polychrome.nl (Kees Brandenburg) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 11:03:17 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 17 jun. 2013, at 03:33, Marek Matusz wrote: > The other trick is to increase platen gap from a standard setting. I was seeing some stripes on the prints (venetian blinds) and as soon as I increased platen gap they went away. Hi Marek, Did you know you can define 'custom paper' options from the printers display? Click on Menu | Custom Papers. Here you can make presets for special papers like sheets for negatives. You can define platen gap settings, but also drying time and two paper feed fine tuning options (A and B). There's also a paper thickness check. Once set the printer saves the setting under a custom paper number you can choose from the menu each time you want to print negatives. I use one for negatives with a slightly higher platen gap and some extra drying time. Works perfectly. Kees From sanking at clemson.edu Mon Jun 17 14:32:19 2013 From: sanking at clemson.edu (Sandy King) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 10:32:19 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> I am surprised that the inks from the 3800 dry with the Ultrafine clear transparency material. When I used it with the 3800 the ink would just sit on the surface and never fully dry. I bought a lot of it so was pretty disappointed, but I found out that the Ultrachrome worked nicely when used between the negative and my sensitized carbon tissue. Sandu On Jun 16, 2013, at 9:33 PM, Marek Matusz wrote: > > > All Happy Father's day to all alt fathers. I do have a tip for printing on Epson printers, mine is 3800, but others might apply. I feel silly for "discovering " it only after years of printing. I have been working on another set of low color saturation gums (a la Chia) and printing 4 negatives each. At 11x14 size pictorico was too much in terms of cost so I was using Ultrafine Crystal CLear transparency. However some of my negatives were coming out in different size. It was curios as some of them were just narrower by a quarter of an inch (something that I only discovered during printing). Strangely enough the negative was cut off (or it's printing was cut off) so that they still matched perfectly, but left a stripe of unprinted layer on the paper. Today I came across a negative that was about 3/8 inch narrower. I really could not tell what was happening. As of some time I was putting a piece of blue painter's tape at the edge of transparency (bottom) to make sure that the pr > inter will recognize the transparency as paper to feed it. Ultrafine transparency comes with a white tape stripe along the long edge of the sheet. I was always feeding it at the right edge of the printer (as you are looking at the front of it) thinking that that where the sensor is looking for an edge of the paper. I guess I was wrong. As soon as I placed the white stripe on the left I got a consistent print (just like it would be on paper). No need to add another tape edge along the short side. It took me so many years to fix this intermittent problem. The other trick is to increase platen gap from a standard setting. I was seeing some stripes on the prints (venetian blinds) and as soon as I increased platen gap they went away. I think this was mentioned a couple times over the years, but I never felt the need to apply that. Anyways I finished 4 sets of negatives (4 negatives per print) and printed black layer. A very productive weekend. Marek > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From donsbryant at gmail.com Mon Jun 17 15:17:47 2013 From: donsbryant at gmail.com (Don) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 11:17:47 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> Message-ID: > I am surprised that the inks from the 3800 dry with the Ultrafine clear transparency material. When I used it with the 3800 the ink would just sit on the surface and never fully dry. I bought a lot of it so was pretty disappointed, but I found out that the Ultrachrome worked nicely when used between the negative and my sensitized carbon tissue. > I had the same results as Sandy described. I gave up on the product and threw a fair amount of the product in the trash. Don Bryant From bobkiss at caribsurf.com Mon Jun 17 15:25:31 2013 From: bobkiss at caribsurf.com (BOB KISS) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 11:25:31 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> Message-ID: I have used Inkpress film with my Epson 3800 since I bought it years ago. The only kink I had was some pizza wheel marks regardless of which of the loading method I used. They were quickly solved by increasing the drying time for each pass so I am very happy with this combination. CHEERS! BOB -----Original Message----- From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of Sandy King Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 10:32 AM To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip I am surprised that the inks from the 3800 dry with the Ultrafine clear transparency material. When I used it with the 3800 the ink would just sit on the surface and never fully dry. I bought a lot of it so was pretty disappointed, but I found out that the Ultrachrome worked nicely when used between the negative and my sensitized carbon tissue. Sandu On Jun 16, 2013, at 9:33 PM, Marek Matusz wrote: > > > All Happy Father's day to all alt fathers. I do have a tip for printing on Epson printers, mine is 3800, but others might apply. I feel silly for "discovering " it only after years of printing. I have been working on another set of low color saturation gums (a la Chia) and printing 4 negatives each. At 11x14 size pictorico was too much in terms of cost so I was using Ultrafine Crystal CLear transparency. However some of my negatives were coming out in different size. It was curios as some of them were just narrower by a quarter of an inch (something that I only discovered during printing). Strangely enough the negative was cut off (or it's printing was cut off) so that they still matched perfectly, but left a stripe of unprinted layer on the paper. Today I came across a negative that was about 3/8 inch narrower. I really could not tell what was happening. As of some time I was putting a piece of blue painter's tape at the edge of transparency (bottom) to make sure that the pr > inter will recognize the transparency as paper to feed it. Ultrafine transparency comes with a white tape stripe along the long edge of the sheet. I was always feeding it at the right edge of the printer (as you are looking at the front of it) thinking that that where the sensor is looking for an edge of the paper. I guess I was wrong. As soon as I placed the white stripe on the left I got a consistent print (just like it would be on paper). No need to add another tape edge along the short side. It took me so many years to fix this intermittent problem. The other trick is to increase platen gap from a standard setting. I was seeing some stripes on the prints (venetian blinds) and as soon as I increased platen gap they went away. I think this was mentioned a couple times over the years, but I never felt the need to apply that. Anyways I finished 4 sets of negatives (4 negatives per print) and printed black layer. A very productive weekend. Marek > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo _______________________________________________ Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 8459 (20130617) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From marekmatusz at hotmail.com Mon Jun 17 15:57:34 2013 From: marekmatusz at hotmail.com (Marek Matusz) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:57:34 +0000 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: , , <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu>, Message-ID: Ultrafine transparency does not have as much ink holding capacity as Pictorico, but plenty for gum negatives. My workflow is QTR printing with 25% of yellow and 25% photoblack ink. WIth unidirectional printing it goes pretty slow and I never have issues with the ink not drying. WHen you start printing with light inks that add solvent but little ink density you might start running into issues even at low negative densities. QTR is so great as it allows for direct control of the inks (in a very simple way), both the amount that is used and ink selection. Marek > From: bobkiss at caribsurf.com > To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 11:25:31 -0400 > Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > > I have used Inkpress film with my Epson 3800 since I bought it years ago. > The only kink I had was some pizza wheel marks regardless of which of the > loading method I used. They were quickly solved by increasing the drying > time for each pass so I am very happy with this combination. > CHEERS! > BOB > > -----Original Message----- > From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org > [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of > Sandy King > Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 10:32 AM > To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > > I am surprised that the inks from the 3800 dry with the Ultrafine clear > transparency material. When I used it with the 3800 the ink would just sit > on the surface and never fully dry. I bought a lot of it so was pretty > disappointed, but I found out that the Ultrachrome worked nicely when used > between the negative and my sensitized carbon tissue. > > Sandu > > > On Jun 16, 2013, at 9:33 PM, Marek Matusz wrote: > > > > > > > All Happy Father's day to all alt fathers. I do have a tip for printing on > Epson printers, mine is 3800, but others might apply. I feel silly for > "discovering " it only after years of printing. I have been working on > another set of low color saturation gums (a la Chia) and printing 4 > negatives each. At 11x14 size pictorico was too much in terms of cost so I > was using Ultrafine Crystal CLear transparency. However some of my negatives > were coming out in different size. It was curios as some of them were just > narrower by a quarter of an inch (something that I only discovered during > printing). Strangely enough the negative was cut off (or it's printing was > cut off) so that they still matched perfectly, but left a stripe of > unprinted layer on the paper. Today I came across a negative that was about > 3/8 inch narrower. I really could not tell what was happening. As of some > time I was putting a piece of blue painter's tape at the edge of > transparency (bottom) to make sure that the > pr > > inter will recognize the transparency as paper to feed it. Ultrafine > transparency comes with a white tape stripe along the long edge of the > sheet. I was always feeding it at the right edge of the printer (as you are > looking at the front of it) thinking that that where the sensor is looking > for an edge of the paper. I guess I was wrong. As soon as I placed the white > stripe on the left I got a consistent print (just like it would be on > paper). No need to add another tape edge along the short side. It took me so > many years to fix this intermittent problem. The other trick is to increase > platen gap from a standard setting. I was seeing some stripes on the prints > (venetian blinds) and as soon as I increased platen gap they went away. I > think this was mentioned a couple times over the years, but I never felt the > need to apply that. Anyways I finished 4 sets of negatives (4 negatives per > print) and printed black layer. A very productive weekend. Marek > > > _______________________________________________ > > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature > database 8459 (20130617) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > http://www.eset.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From mail at loris.medici.name Mon Jun 17 16:13:29 2013 From: mail at loris.medici.name (Loris Medici) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 19:13:29 +0300 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> Message-ID: Another option could be the "new formulation" Permajet Film. See here: http://artofplatinum.wordpress.com/2013/02/18/permajet-film-new-forumulation-vs-pictorico-film/ I was using Ultrafine years ago with my dye based Epson (890 / 1290) and it was working extremely very well with those dyes, not so well with pigment inks. BUT, the only pigment inks I tested with Ultrafine wasn't any of the current inksets - it was the first incarnation of John Cone's Piezography Selenium Tone inkset. Regards, Loris. 2013/6/17 Marek Matusz > Ultrafine transparency does not have as much ink holding capacity as > Pictorico, but plenty for gum negatives. My workflow is QTR printing with > 25% of yellow and 25% photoblack ink. WIth unidirectional printing it goes > pretty slow and I never have issues with the ink not drying. WHen you start > printing with light inks that add solvent but little ink density you might > start running into issues even at low negative densities. QTR is so great > as it allows for direct control of the inks (in a very simple way), both > the amount that is used and ink selection. > > > > Marek > > > > From: bobkiss at caribsurf.com > > To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > > Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 11:25:31 -0400 > > Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > > > > I have used Inkpress film with my Epson 3800 since I bought it years ago. > > The only kink I had was some pizza wheel marks regardless of which of the > > loading method I used. They were quickly solved by increasing the drying > > time for each pass so I am very happy with this combination. > > CHEERS! > > BOB > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org > > [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On > Behalf Of > > Sandy King > > Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 10:32 AM > > To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > > Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > > > > I am surprised that the inks from the 3800 dry with the Ultrafine clear > > transparency material. When I used it with the 3800 the ink would just > sit > > on the surface and never fully dry. I bought a lot of it so was pretty > > disappointed, but I found out that the Ultrachrome worked nicely when > used > > between the negative and my sensitized carbon tissue. > > > > Sandu > > > > > > On Jun 16, 2013, at 9:33 PM, Marek Matusz wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > All Happy Father's day to all alt fathers. I do have a tip for > printing on > > Epson printers, mine is 3800, but others might apply. I feel silly for > > "discovering " it only after years of printing. I have been working on > > another set of low color saturation gums (a la Chia) and printing 4 > > negatives each. At 11x14 size pictorico was too much in terms of cost so > I > > was using Ultrafine Crystal CLear transparency. However some of my > negatives > > were coming out in different size. It was curios as some of them were > just > > narrower by a quarter of an inch (something that I only discovered during > > printing). Strangely enough the negative was cut off (or it's printing > was > > cut off) so that they still matched perfectly, but left a stripe of > > unprinted layer on the paper. Today I came across a negative that was > about > > 3/8 inch narrower. I really could not tell what was happening. As of some > > time I was putting a piece of blue painter's tape at the edge of > > transparency (bottom) to make sure that the > > pr > > > inter will recognize the transparency as paper to feed it. Ultrafine > > transparency comes with a white tape stripe along the long edge of the > > sheet. I was always feeding it at the right edge of the printer (as you > are > > looking at the front of it) thinking that that where the sensor is > looking > > for an edge of the paper. I guess I was wrong. As soon as I placed the > white > > stripe on the left I got a consistent print (just like it would be on > > paper). No need to add another tape edge along the short side. It took > me so > > many years to fix this intermittent problem. The other trick is to > increase > > platen gap from a standard setting. I was seeing some stripes on the > prints > > (venetian blinds) and as soon as I increased platen gap they went away. I > > think this was mentioned a couple times over the years, but I never felt > the > > need to apply that. Anyways I finished 4 sets of negatives (4 negatives > per > > print) and printed black layer. A very productive weekend. Marek > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus > signature > > database 8459 (20130617) __________ > > > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > > > http://www.eset.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > From sanking at clemson.edu Mon Jun 17 16:59:03 2013 From: sanking at clemson.edu (Sandy King) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:59:03 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> Message-ID: <60E20A23-E097-48C6-80BC-E81DD8137AA6@clemson.edu> The article mentions that the new Permajet Film has a lower base density than Pictorico. That would be a big advantage if true because the current generation of Pictorico Ultra Premium has a UV base density of about log 0.25. That adds almost a full stop to the exposure of digital negatives. Sandy On Jun 17, 2013, at 12:13 PM, Loris Medici wrote: > Another option could be the "new formulation" Permajet Film. See here: > http://artofplatinum.wordpress.com/2013/02/18/permajet-film-new-forumulation-vs-pictorico-film/ > > I was using Ultrafine years ago with my dye based Epson (890 / 1290) and it > was working extremely very well with those dyes, not so well with pigment > inks. BUT, the only pigment inks I tested with Ultrafine wasn't any of the > current inksets - it was the first incarnation of John Cone's Piezography > Selenium Tone inkset. > > Regards, > Loris. > > > 2013/6/17 Marek Matusz > >> Ultrafine transparency does not have as much ink holding capacity as >> Pictorico, but plenty for gum negatives. My workflow is QTR printing with >> 25% of yellow and 25% photoblack ink. WIth unidirectional printing it goes >> pretty slow and I never have issues with the ink not drying. WHen you start >> printing with light inks that add solvent but little ink density you might >> start running into issues even at low negative densities. QTR is so great >> as it allows for direct control of the inks (in a very simple way), both >> the amount that is used and ink selection. >> >> >> >> Marek >> >> >>> From: bobkiss at caribsurf.com >>> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org >>> Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 11:25:31 -0400 >>> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip >>> >>> I have used Inkpress film with my Epson 3800 since I bought it years ago. >>> The only kink I had was some pizza wheel marks regardless of which of the >>> loading method I used. They were quickly solved by increasing the drying >>> time for each pass so I am very happy with this combination. >>> CHEERS! >>> BOB >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org >>> [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On >> Behalf Of >>> Sandy King >>> Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 10:32 AM >>> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org >>> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip >>> >>> I am surprised that the inks from the 3800 dry with the Ultrafine clear >>> transparency material. When I used it with the 3800 the ink would just >> sit >>> on the surface and never fully dry. I bought a lot of it so was pretty >>> disappointed, but I found out that the Ultrachrome worked nicely when >> used >>> between the negative and my sensitized carbon tissue. >>> >>> Sandu >>> >>> >>> On Jun 16, 2013, at 9:33 PM, Marek Matusz wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> >>>> All Happy Father's day to all alt fathers. I do have a tip for >> printing on >>> Epson printers, mine is 3800, but others might apply. I feel silly for >>> "discovering " it only after years of printing. I have been working on >>> another set of low color saturation gums (a la Chia) and printing 4 >>> negatives each. At 11x14 size pictorico was too much in terms of cost so >> I >>> was using Ultrafine Crystal CLear transparency. However some of my >> negatives >>> were coming out in different size. It was curios as some of them were >> just >>> narrower by a quarter of an inch (something that I only discovered during >>> printing). Strangely enough the negative was cut off (or it's printing >> was >>> cut off) so that they still matched perfectly, but left a stripe of >>> unprinted layer on the paper. Today I came across a negative that was >> about >>> 3/8 inch narrower. I really could not tell what was happening. As of some >>> time I was putting a piece of blue painter's tape at the edge of >>> transparency (bottom) to make sure that the >>> pr >>>> inter will recognize the transparency as paper to feed it. Ultrafine >>> transparency comes with a white tape stripe along the long edge of the >>> sheet. I was always feeding it at the right edge of the printer (as you >> are >>> looking at the front of it) thinking that that where the sensor is >> looking >>> for an edge of the paper. I guess I was wrong. As soon as I placed the >> white >>> stripe on the left I got a consistent print (just like it would be on >>> paper). No need to add another tape edge along the short side. It took >> me so >>> many years to fix this intermittent problem. The other trick is to >> increase >>> platen gap from a standard setting. I was seeing some stripes on the >> prints >>> (venetian blinds) and as soon as I increased platen gap they went away. I >>> think this was mentioned a couple times over the years, but I never felt >> the >>> need to apply that. Anyways I finished 4 sets of negatives (4 negatives >> per >>> print) and printed black layer. A very productive weekend. Marek >>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >>> >>> __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus >> signature >>> database 8459 (20130617) __________ >>> >>> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. >>> >>> http://www.eset.com >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >> > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From mail at loris.medici.name Mon Jun 17 19:02:29 2013 From: mail at loris.medici.name (Loris Medici) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 22:02:29 +0300 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: <60E20A23-E097-48C6-80BC-E81DD8137AA6@clemson.edu> References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> <60E20A23-E097-48C6-80BC-E81DD8137AA6@clemson.edu> Message-ID: <8920455507482849765@unknownmsgid> Hi Sandy, FWIW, I use Agfa SelectJet/CopyJet, identical ink receptive coating as Pictorico (curves are interchangeable) but with lower ~ log 0.2 (max!) base density. Regards, Loris. On 17 Haz 2013, at 19:59, Sandy King wrote: > The article mentions that the new Permajet Film has a lower base density than Pictorico. That would be a big advantage if true because the current generation of Pictorico Ultra Premium has a UV base density of about log 0.25. That adds almost a full stop to the exposure of digital negatives. > > Sandy > > > On Jun 17, 2013, at 12:13 PM, Loris Medici wrote: > >> Another option could be the "new formulation" Permajet Film. See here: >> http://artofplatinum.wordpress.com/2013/02/18/permajet-film-new-forumulation-vs-pictorico-film/ >> >> I was using Ultrafine years ago with my dye based Epson (890 / 1290) and it >> was working extremely very well with those dyes, not so well with pigment >> inks. BUT, the only pigment inks I tested with Ultrafine wasn't any of the >> current inksets - it was the first incarnation of John Cone's Piezography >> Selenium Tone inkset. >> >> Regards, >> Loris. >> >> >> 2013/6/17 Marek Matusz >> >>> Ultrafine transparency does not have as much ink holding capacity as >>> Pictorico, but plenty for gum negatives. My workflow is QTR printing with >>> 25% of yellow and 25% photoblack ink. WIth unidirectional printing it goes >>> pretty slow and I never have issues with the ink not drying. WHen you start >>> printing with light inks that add solvent but little ink density you might >>> start running into issues even at low negative densities. QTR is so great >>> as it allows for direct control of the inks (in a very simple way), both >>> the amount that is used and ink selection. >>> >>> >>> >>> Marek >>> >>> >>>> From: bobkiss at caribsurf.com >>>> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org >>>> Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 11:25:31 -0400 >>>> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip >>>> >>>> I have used Inkpress film with my Epson 3800 since I bought it years ago. >>>> The only kink I had was some pizza wheel marks regardless of which of the >>>> loading method I used. They were quickly solved by increasing the drying >>>> time for each pass so I am very happy with this combination. >>>> CHEERS! >>>> BOB >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org >>>> [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On >>> Behalf Of >>>> Sandy King >>>> Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 10:32 AM >>>> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org >>>> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip >>>> >>>> I am surprised that the inks from the 3800 dry with the Ultrafine clear >>>> transparency material. When I used it with the 3800 the ink would just >>> sit >>>> on the surface and never fully dry. I bought a lot of it so was pretty >>>> disappointed, but I found out that the Ultrachrome worked nicely when >>> used >>>> between the negative and my sensitized carbon tissue. >>>> >>>> Sandu >>>> >>>> >>>> On Jun 16, 2013, at 9:33 PM, Marek Matusz wrote: >>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> All Happy Father's day to all alt fathers. I do have a tip for >>> printing on >>>> Epson printers, mine is 3800, but others might apply. I feel silly for >>>> "discovering " it only after years of printing. I have been working on >>>> another set of low color saturation gums (a la Chia) and printing 4 >>>> negatives each. At 11x14 size pictorico was too much in terms of cost so >>> I >>>> was using Ultrafine Crystal CLear transparency. However some of my >>> negatives >>>> were coming out in different size. It was curios as some of them were >>> just >>>> narrower by a quarter of an inch (something that I only discovered during >>>> printing). Strangely enough the negative was cut off (or it's printing >>> was >>>> cut off) so that they still matched perfectly, but left a stripe of >>>> unprinted layer on the paper. Today I came across a negative that was >>> about >>>> 3/8 inch narrower. I really could not tell what was happening. As of some >>>> time I was putting a piece of blue painter's tape at the edge of >>>> transparency (bottom) to make sure that the >>>> pr >>>>> inter will recognize the transparency as paper to feed it. Ultrafine >>>> transparency comes with a white tape stripe along the long edge of the >>>> sheet. I was always feeding it at the right edge of the printer (as you >>> are >>>> looking at the front of it) thinking that that where the sensor is >>> looking >>>> for an edge of the paper. I guess I was wrong. As soon as I placed the >>> white >>>> stripe on the left I got a consistent print (just like it would be on >>>> paper). No need to add another tape edge along the short side. It took >>> me so >>>> many years to fix this intermittent problem. The other trick is to >>> increase >>>> platen gap from a standard setting. I was seeing some stripes on the >>> prints >>>> (venetian blinds) and as soon as I increased platen gap they went away. I >>>> think this was mentioned a couple times over the years, but I never felt >>> the >>>> need to apply that. Anyways I finished 4 sets of negatives (4 negatives >>> per >>>> print) and printed black layer. A very productive weekend. Marek >>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >>>> >>>> __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus >>> signature >>>> database 8459 (20130617) __________ >>>> >>>> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. >>>> >>>> http://www.eset.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >> _______________________________________________ >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From chiahans at pictoform.nu Mon Jun 17 19:21:56 2013 From: chiahans at pictoform.nu (Hans & Chia) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 21:21:56 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Marek You woke me up! I have during the last years always taped my film to a sheet of paper. Pain and wasted time so I was eager today to try your version with a white stripe to the left. The Epson said Ready!!! Also tried without a stripe and the machine said Ready again (Epson 4800) and printed me a negative - to my surprise! I also tested it in our 9800 (then only with the white stripe to the left - we don't use this machine anymore for negatives but I was curious.) The machine said Ready! I love these machines when they act as I will! My husband Hans reminded me that some of the overhead films for laser have a white stripe at the top. I use the Agfa CopyJet film and have made a gum curve in QTR that works for me. Tried Pictorico years ago - too expensive here. Thanks (negatives ? Marek) Chia 17 jun 2013 kl. 03.33 skrev Marek Matusz: > > > All Happy Father's day to all alt fathers. I do have a tip for printing on Epson printers, mine is 3800, but others might apply. I feel silly for "discovering " it only after years of printing. I have been working on another set of low color saturation gums (a la Chia) and printing 4 negatives each. At 11x14 size pictorico was too much in terms of cost so I was using Ultrafine Crystal CLear transparency. However some of my negatives were coming out in different size. It was curios as some of them were just narrower by a quarter of an inch (something that I only discovered during printing). Strangely enough the negative was cut off (or it's printing was cut off) so that they still matched perfectly, but left a stripe of unprinted layer on the paper. Today I came across a negative that was about 3/8 inch narrower. I really could not tell what was happening. As of some time I was putting a piece of blue painter's tape at the edge of transparency (bottom) to make sure that the pr > inter will recognize the transparency as paper to feed it. Ultrafine transparency comes with a white tape stripe along the long edge of the sheet. I was always feeding it at the right edge of the printer (as you are looking at the front of it) thinking that that where the sensor is looking for an edge of the paper. I guess I was wrong. As soon as I placed the white stripe on the left I got a consistent print (just like it would be on paper). No need to add another tape edge along the short side. It took me so many years to fix this intermittent problem. The other trick is to increase platen gap from a standard setting. I was seeing some stripes on the prints (venetian blinds) and as soon as I increased platen gap they went away. I think this was mentioned a couple times over the years, but I never felt the need to apply that. Anyways I finished 4 sets of negatives (4 negatives per print) and printed black layer. A very productive weekend. Marek > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo PS . V?r hemsida ?r nu ?ntligen uppdaterad! Our website is, finally, updated! Atelier Pictoform Hans Nohlberg & Chia N-L?fqvist Folketshusgatan 1 SE - 267 41 Bjuv Sweden +46 (0)42 141818 Mobile: 0739 744424 www.pictoform.nu www.artphotocollection.com www.etsabild.com www.goldstreetstudios.com.au From greg.mikol at ieee.org Tue Jun 18 00:17:36 2013 From: greg.mikol at ieee.org (Greg Mikol) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 17:17:36 -0700 Subject: [Alt-photo] Permajet Digital Transfer Film Message-ID: <51BFA720.2010601@ieee.org> Anybody know of a place that sells the Permajet film in the USA? --Greg From klindgren2 at gmail.com Tue Jun 18 02:41:49 2013 From: klindgren2 at gmail.com (Kirk Lindgren) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 19:41:49 -0700 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Permajet Digital Transfer Film In-Reply-To: <51BFA720.2010601@ieee.org> References: <51BFA720.2010601@ieee.org> Message-ID: Amazon has it listed. Good luck. Kirk On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 5:17 PM, Greg Mikol wrote: > Anybody know of a place that sells the Permajet film in the USA? > > --Greg > ______________________________**_________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/**mailman/listinfo > From christnze at gmail.com Tue Jun 18 07:20:30 2013 From: christnze at gmail.com (Christian Nze) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 09:20:30 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Permajet Digital Transfer Film In-Reply-To: References: <51BFA720.2010601@ieee.org> Message-ID: Hi all I 've tried a lot of different film these last year : pictorico, agfa , tecco, folex. Pictorico is one of the best but hard to get in France. I find a film which is as good at revolution transfer. http://www.revolutiontransfers.co.uk/Media/Media_Film both the premium and hd are really good. I create negative with a 4.0 density dmax with my epson 7600 and 3800. The shipping is quite good , it just cost me 20? for 2 17" roll.( one of each to test). Feel free to tell that I give you the link , It may help when I ask for larger size of the HD best regards Christian Nze 2013/6/18 Kirk Lindgren > Amazon has it listed. Good luck. > > Kirk > > > > > On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 5:17 PM, Greg Mikol wrote: > > > Anybody know of a place that sells the Permajet film in the USA? > > > > --Greg > > ______________________________**_________________ > > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/**mailman/listinfo< > http://lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo> > > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > From workshops at polychrome.nl Tue Jun 18 07:51:28 2013 From: workshops at polychrome.nl (Kees Brandenburg) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 09:51:28 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Permajet Digital Transfer Film In-Reply-To: References: <51BFA720.2010601@ieee.org> Message-ID: <5274C8B8-5478-4036-92EE-94501D879E02@polychrome.nl> I am using Sihl spirit film 130 (glossy 3642 130 ?m) for many years now. It's excellent for negatives. Sihl also coats substrates for other brands. http://www.sihl.de/content/Products.aspx?Nid=34&Aid=101&ID=272&ArID=1&GrpID=2&CatID=7&FamID=143 Kees From johnbrewerphotography at gmail.com Tue Jun 18 10:04:05 2013 From: johnbrewerphotography at gmail.com (John Brewer) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 11:04:05 +0100 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Permajet Digital Transfer Film In-Reply-To: References: <51BFA720.2010601@ieee.org> Message-ID: Christian I used to use that but I now use this http://www.colourbyte.co.uk/content/blogcategory/110/1672/ almost identical apart from the price. John Sent from my iPhone On 18 Jun 2013, at 08:20, Christian Nze wrote: > Hi all > > I 've tried a lot of different film these last year : pictorico, agfa , > tecco, folex. Pictorico is one of the best but hard to get in France. > > I find a film which is as good at revolution transfer. > http://www.revolutiontransfers.co.uk/Media/Media_Film > > both the premium and hd are really good. I create negative with a 4.0 > density dmax with my epson 7600 and 3800. > > The shipping is quite good , it just cost me 20? for 2 17" roll.( one of > each to test). > > Feel free to tell that I give you the link , It may help when I ask for > larger size of the HD > > best regards > > Christian Nze > > > > 2013/6/18 Kirk Lindgren > >> Amazon has it listed. Good luck. >> >> Kirk >> >> >> >> >> On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 5:17 PM, Greg Mikol wrote: >> >>> Anybody know of a place that sells the Permajet film in the USA? >>> >>> --Greg >>> ______________________________**_________________ >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/**mailman/listinfo< >> http://lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >> > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From christnze at gmail.com Tue Jun 18 10:40:14 2013 From: christnze at gmail.com (Christian Nze) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 12:40:14 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Permajet Digital Transfer Film In-Reply-To: References: <51BFA720.2010601@ieee.org> Message-ID: Thanks John That's perfect for me 2013/6/18 John Brewer > Christian > > I used to use that but I now use this > http://www.colourbyte.co.uk/content/blogcategory/110/1672/ almost > identical apart from the price. > > John > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 18 Jun 2013, at 08:20, Christian Nze wrote: > > > Hi all > > > > I 've tried a lot of different film these last year : pictorico, agfa , > > tecco, folex. Pictorico is one of the best but hard to get in France. > > > > I find a film which is as good at revolution transfer. > > http://www.revolutiontransfers.co.uk/Media/Media_Film > > > > both the premium and hd are really good. I create negative with a 4.0 > > density dmax with my epson 7600 and 3800. > > > > The shipping is quite good , it just cost me 20? for 2 17" roll.( one of > > each to test). > > > > Feel free to tell that I give you the link , It may help when I ask for > > larger size of the HD > > > > best regards > > > > Christian Nze > > > > > > > > 2013/6/18 Kirk Lindgren > > > >> Amazon has it listed. Good luck. > >> > >> Kirk > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 5:17 PM, Greg Mikol > wrote: > >> > >>> Anybody know of a place that sells the Permajet film in the USA? > >>> > >>> --Greg > >>> ______________________________**_________________ > >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/**mailman/listinfo< > >> http://lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo> > >>> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From sanking at clemson.edu Tue Jun 18 13:46:24 2013 From: sanking at clemson.edu (Sandy King) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 09:46:24 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Permajet Digital Transfer Film In-Reply-To: References: <51BFA720.2010601@ieee.org> Message-ID: Pictorico is now distributed in the US by Mitisibishu Imaging and one can order directly from them. There seem to be Mitisubishi distribution centers in Europe as well. http://www.mpm.co.jp/inkjet/english/world_network.html Sandy On Jun 18, 2013, at 6:40 AM, Christian Nze wrote: > Thanks John > > That's perfect for me > > > 2013/6/18 John Brewer > >> Christian >> >> I used to use that but I now use this >> http://www.colourbyte.co.uk/content/blogcategory/110/1672/ almost >> identical apart from the price. >> >> John >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On 18 Jun 2013, at 08:20, Christian Nze wrote: >> >>> Hi all >>> >>> I 've tried a lot of different film these last year : pictorico, agfa , >>> tecco, folex. Pictorico is one of the best but hard to get in France. >>> >>> I find a film which is as good at revolution transfer. >>> http://www.revolutiontransfers.co.uk/Media/Media_Film >>> >>> both the premium and hd are really good. I create negative with a 4.0 >>> density dmax with my epson 7600 and 3800. >>> >>> The shipping is quite good , it just cost me 20? for 2 17" roll.( one of >>> each to test). >>> >>> Feel free to tell that I give you the link , It may help when I ask for >>> larger size of the HD >>> >>> best regards >>> >>> Christian Nze >>> >>> >>> >>> 2013/6/18 Kirk Lindgren >>> >>>> Amazon has it listed. Good luck. >>>> >>>> Kirk >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 5:17 PM, Greg Mikol >> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Anybody know of a place that sells the Permajet film in the USA? >>>>> >>>>> --Greg >>>>> ______________________________**_________________ >>>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/**mailman/listinfo< >>>> http://lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo> >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >> _______________________________________________ >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From greg.mikol at ieee.org Tue Jun 18 19:56:35 2013 From: greg.mikol at ieee.org (Greg Mikol) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 12:56:35 -0700 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Permajet Digital Transfer Film In-Reply-To: <51BFA720.2010601@ieee.org> References: <51BFA720.2010601@ieee.org> Message-ID: <51C0BB73.4060909@ieee.org> Thanks, I saw that, but I was hoping that it might actually be cut in imperial sizes (8.5x11 / 11x17). I heard back from Permajet, and they said they'll ship direct, but who knows how much that would cost. --Greg > Amazon has it listed. Good luck. > > Kirk > > On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 5:17 PM, Greg Mikol wrote: > >> Anybody know of a place that sells the Permajet film in the USA? >> >> --Greg From samwang864 at gmail.com Wed Jun 19 12:50:59 2013 From: samwang864 at gmail.com (sam wang) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 08:50:59 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> Message-ID: <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> Feeding the film from the front also helps eliminate pizza wheels. But the not-drying was a problem. After Sandy told me about using his stash of Ultrafine as interleafing or cover sheets for Pictorico, I arrived at what I thought was best of both worlds: print a 2nd reversed left-to-right negative and sandwich the 2 face to face. The surprise was that using just photo black I made almost straight line negatives perfect for PD. Wish Don asked me before throwing his Ultrafine in the trash - Ultrafine alone makes nice gums. Love the clear base. All you need is to back the non-dry negative with very thin piece of Duralar and it would work great. That is, if your Epson behaves as it should - mine just died. Or at least the PK print head seems to have just died - completely clogged with a 7/10 full cartridge. Sam Wang On Jun 17, 2013, at 11:25 AM, BOB KISS wrote: > I have used Inkpress film with my Epson 3800 since I bought it years ago. > The only kink I had was some pizza wheel marks regardless of which of the > loading method I used. They were quickly solved by increasing the drying > time for each pass so I am very happy with this combination. > CHEERS! > BOB > From bobkiss at caribsurf.com Wed Jun 19 13:15:24 2013 From: bobkiss at caribsurf.com (BOB KISS) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 09:15:24 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> Message-ID: As I mentioned in my original e-mail, I had pizza wheels ***regardless*** of which loading method I used. Front loading did *nothing* to eliminate them. The only thing that did the trick was to extend the drying time for each printer pass. CHEERS! BOB -----Original Message----- From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of sam wang Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 8:51 AM To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip Feeding the film from the front also helps eliminate pizza wheels. But the not-drying was a problem. After Sandy told me about using his stash of Ultrafine as interleafing or cover sheets for Pictorico, I arrived at what I thought was best of both worlds: print a 2nd reversed left-to-right negative and sandwich the 2 face to face. The surprise was that using just photo black I made almost straight line negatives perfect for PD. Wish Don asked me before throwing his Ultrafine in the trash - Ultrafine alone makes nice gums. Love the clear base. All you need is to back the non-dry negative with very thin piece of Duralar and it would work great. That is, if your Epson behaves as it should - mine just died. Or at least the PK print head seems to have just died - completely clogged with a 7/10 full cartridge. Sam Wang On Jun 17, 2013, at 11:25 AM, BOB KISS wrote: > I have used Inkpress film with my Epson 3800 since I bought it years ago. > The only kink I had was some pizza wheel marks regardless of which of the > loading method I used. They were quickly solved by increasing the drying > time for each pass so I am very happy with this combination. > CHEERS! > BOB > _______________________________________________ Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 8466 (20130619) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From donsbryant at gmail.com Thu Jun 20 23:39:07 2013 From: donsbryant at gmail.com (Don) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 19:39:07 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> Message-ID: <3D30F0F3EA52413794F985754834C23F@FireBreather> > Wish Don asked me before throwing his Ultrafine in the trash - Ultrafine alone makes nice gums. Love the clear base. All you need is to back the non-dry negative with very thin piece of Duralar and it would work great. That is, if your Epson behaves as it should - mine just died. Or at least the PK print head seems to have just died - completely clogged with a 7/10 full cartridge. > At the time that I was using this product I was printing with a 1280 and 2200, both produced beaucoup pizza wheel trackswhich made black dots on the prints. Couple that problem with the poor ink drying and the act of thrashing the Ultrafine was cathartic. - "Out ye devils!" Besides it wasn't that much of the product. :) Hard to believe but that was almost 10 tears ago: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum128/9740-ultrafine-clear-film.html Perhaps this product might be worth trying: http://www.ultrafineonline.com/dyscprinfi.html Don From alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com Thu Jun 20 23:42:41 2013 From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com (Jeremy Moore) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 18:42:41 -0500 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: <3D30F0F3EA52413794F985754834C23F@FireBreather> References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> <3D30F0F3EA52413794F985754834C23F@FireBreather> Message-ID: This product is quite a bit cheaper and specifically mentions alt process printing: http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulinwafi.html - Jeremy On Jun 20, 2013, at 6:39 PM, "Don" wrote: > >> > Wish Don asked me before throwing his Ultrafine in the trash - Ultrafine > alone makes nice gums. Love the clear base. All you need is to back the > non-dry negative with very thin piece of Duralar and it would work great. > That is, if your Epson behaves as it should - mine just died. Or at least > the PK print head seems to have just died - completely clogged with a 7/10 > full cartridge. >> > > At the time that I was using this product I was printing with a 1280 and > 2200, both produced beaucoup pizza wheel trackswhich made black dots on the > prints. Couple that problem with the poor ink drying and the act of > thrashing the Ultrafine was cathartic. - "Out ye devils!" Besides it wasn't > that much of the product. :) > > Hard to believe but that was almost 10 tears ago: > > http://www.apug.org/forums/forum128/9740-ultrafine-clear-film.html > > Perhaps this product might be worth trying: > > http://www.ultrafineonline.com/dyscprinfi.html > > > Don > > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From donsbryant at gmail.com Thu Jun 20 23:44:18 2013 From: donsbryant at gmail.com (Don) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 19:44:18 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> Message-ID: <6CE1ED4DD0E94DC4B223D9F411814597@FireBreather> > Wish Don asked me before throwing his Ultrafine in the trash - Ultrafine alone makes nice gums. Love the clear base. > This product maybe the new and improved Ultrafine Clear Film http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulinwafi.html Much less expensive. From alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com Fri Jun 21 21:14:22 2013 From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com (Jeremy Moore) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 16:14:22 -0500 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: <6CE1ED4DD0E94DC4B223D9F411814597@FireBreather> References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> <6CE1ED4DD0E94DC4B223D9F411814597@FireBreather> Message-ID: I have a dye and a pigment printer so I ordered a box of the cheaper ultrafine OHP to test out. Plus, I have a project requiring 121 negatives so cheaper is better! - Jeremy On Jun 20, 2013, at 6:44 PM, "Don" wrote: > Wish Don asked me before throwing his Ultrafine in the trash - Ultrafine > alone makes nice gums. Love the clear base. > > This product maybe the new and improved Ultrafine Clear Film > > http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulinwafi.html > > Much less expensive. > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From ejnphoto at sbcglobal.net Fri Jun 21 22:28:55 2013 From: ejnphoto at sbcglobal.net (Eric Neilsen) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 17:28:55 -0500 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> Message-ID: <010001ce6ece$b80c5f60$28251e20$@net> The Ultra Fine from Photographers Warehouse? Would work with inks like Cones Piezotones, the older inks that have been discontinued. However, I have been able to get a reasonable print on it with my 7800 that is tinted like a sepia print. I am not however using these for negs. Demo enlargements for a customer to hang in a show, these were only testing an idea. Eric Neilsen 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 Dallas, TX 75226 214-827-8301 www.ericneilsenphotography.com SKYPE ejprinter -----Original Message----- From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of Don Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 10:18 AM To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > I am surprised that the inks from the 3800 dry with the Ultrafine clear transparency material. When I used it with the 3800 the ink would just sit on the surface and never fully dry. I bought a lot of it so was pretty disappointed, but I found out that the Ultrachrome worked nicely when used between the negative and my sensitized carbon tissue. > I had the same results as Sandy described. I gave up on the product and threw a fair amount of the product in the trash. Don Bryant _______________________________________________ Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From ejnphoto at sbcglobal.net Fri Jun 21 22:33:20 2013 From: ejnphoto at sbcglobal.net (Eric Neilsen) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 17:33:20 -0500 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> <6CE1ED4DD0E94DC4B223D9F411814597@FireBreather> Message-ID: <010101ce6ecf$55f6db10$01e49130$@net> Inkpress is what I use for my printing negs. 7800, 4800, K3 inks. Eric Neilsen 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 Dallas, TX 75226 214-827-8301 www.ericneilsenphotography.com SKYPE ejprinter -----Original Message----- From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of Jeremy Moore Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 4:14 PM To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip I have a dye and a pigment printer so I ordered a box of the cheaper ultrafine OHP to test out. Plus, I have a project requiring 121 negatives so cheaper is better! - Jeremy On Jun 20, 2013, at 6:44 PM, "Don" wrote: > Wish Don asked me before throwing his Ultrafine in the trash - Ultrafine > alone makes nice gums. Love the clear base. > > This product maybe the new and improved Ultrafine Clear Film > > http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulinwafi.html > > Much less expensive. > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo _______________________________________________ Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com Fri Jun 21 22:51:31 2013 From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com (Jeremy Moore) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 17:51:31 -0500 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: <010101ce6ecf$55f6db10$01e49130$@net> References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> <6CE1ED4DD0E94DC4B223D9F411814597@FireBreather> <010101ce6ecf$55f6db10$01e49130$@net> Message-ID: 100x 8.5x11 new ultrafine transparency: $45 100x 8.5x11 inkpress: $85 I'm going to try it with the 7800 (K3 inks) and the 1400 (claria dye inks). - Jeremy On Jun 21, 2013, at 5:33 PM, "Eric Neilsen" wrote: > Inkpress is what I use for my printing negs. 7800, 4800, K3 inks. > > > Eric Neilsen > 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 > Dallas, TX 75226 > 214-827-8301 > > www.ericneilsenphotography.com > SKYPE ejprinter > > > -----Original Message----- > From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org > [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of > Jeremy Moore > Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 4:14 PM > To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > > I have a dye and a pigment printer so I ordered a box of the cheaper > ultrafine OHP to test out. Plus, I have a project requiring 121 negatives so > cheaper is better! > > - Jeremy > > On Jun 20, 2013, at 6:44 PM, "Don" wrote: > >> Wish Don asked me before throwing his Ultrafine in the trash - Ultrafine >> alone makes nice gums. Love the clear base. >> >> This product maybe the new and improved Ultrafine Clear Film >> >> http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulinwafi.html >> >> Much less expensive. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From marekmatusz at hotmail.com Sat Jun 22 14:53:56 2013 From: marekmatusz at hotmail.com (Marek Matusz) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 14:53:56 +0000 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: , , <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu>, , <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com>, <6CE1ED4DD0E94DC4B223D9F411814597@FireBreather>, , <010101ce6ecf$55f6db10$01e49130$@net>, Message-ID: Jeremy Are you using QTR for printing? Marek > From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com > Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 17:51:31 -0500 > To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > > 100x 8.5x11 new ultrafine transparency: $45 > > 100x 8.5x11 inkpress: $85 > > I'm going to try it with the 7800 (K3 inks) and the 1400 (claria dye inks). > > - Jeremy > > On Jun 21, 2013, at 5:33 PM, "Eric Neilsen" wrote: > > > Inkpress is what I use for my printing negs. 7800, 4800, K3 inks. > > > > > > Eric Neilsen > > 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 > > Dallas, TX 75226 > > 214-827-8301 > > > > www.ericneilsenphotography.com > > SKYPE ejprinter > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org > > [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of > > Jeremy Moore > > Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 4:14 PM > > To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > > Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > > > > I have a dye and a pigment printer so I ordered a box of the cheaper > > ultrafine OHP to test out. Plus, I have a project requiring 121 negatives so > > cheaper is better! > > > > - Jeremy > > > > On Jun 20, 2013, at 6:44 PM, "Don" wrote: > > > >> Wish Don asked me before throwing his Ultrafine in the trash - Ultrafine > >> alone makes nice gums. Love the clear base. > >> > >> This product maybe the new and improved Ultrafine Clear Film > >> > >> http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulinwafi.html > >> > >> Much less expensive. > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > _______________________________________________ > > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com Sat Jun 22 15:02:04 2013 From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com (Jeremy Moore) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 10:02:04 -0500 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> <6CE1ED4DD0E94DC4B223D9F411814597@FireBreather> <010101ce6ecf$55f6db10$01e49130$@net> Message-ID: <0AD0D39F-B0E4-421D-A802-518DF67ECDE4@gmail.com> Yes, I use QTR to print my negatives. - Jeremy On Jun 22, 2013, at 9:53 AM, Marek Matusz wrote: > Jeremy > > Are you using QTR for printing? > > Marek > >> From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com >> Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 17:51:31 -0500 >> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org >> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip >> >> 100x 8.5x11 new ultrafine transparency: $45 >> >> 100x 8.5x11 inkpress: $85 >> >> I'm going to try it with the 7800 (K3 inks) and the 1400 (claria dye inks). >> >> - Jeremy >> >> On Jun 21, 2013, at 5:33 PM, "Eric Neilsen" wrote: >> >>> Inkpress is what I use for my printing negs. 7800, 4800, K3 inks. >>> >>> >>> Eric Neilsen >>> 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 >>> Dallas, TX 75226 >>> 214-827-8301 >>> >>> www.ericneilsenphotography.com >>> SKYPE ejprinter >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org >>> [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of >>> Jeremy Moore >>> Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 4:14 PM >>> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org >>> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip >>> >>> I have a dye and a pigment printer so I ordered a box of the cheaper >>> ultrafine OHP to test out. Plus, I have a project requiring 121 negatives so >>> cheaper is better! >>> >>> - Jeremy >>> >>> On Jun 20, 2013, at 6:44 PM, "Don" wrote: >>> >>>> Wish Don asked me before throwing his Ultrafine in the trash - Ultrafine >>>> alone makes nice gums. Love the clear base. >>>> >>>> This product maybe the new and improved Ultrafine Clear Film >>>> >>>> http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulinwafi.html >>>> >>>> Much less expensive. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >> _______________________________________________ >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From marekmatusz at hotmail.com Sat Jun 22 15:14:29 2013 From: marekmatusz at hotmail.com (Marek Matusz) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 15:14:29 +0000 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: <0AD0D39F-B0E4-421D-A802-518DF67ECDE4@gmail.com> References: , , <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu>, , <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com>, <6CE1ED4DD0E94DC4B223D9F411814597@FireBreather>, , <010101ce6ecf$55f6db10$01e49130$@net>, , , <0AD0D39F-B0E4-421D-A802-518DF67ECDE4@gmail.com> Message-ID: Then you should have no issues selecting and controlling the ink. What process are you planning to use them for? I just noticed the word NEW next to the transparency. That always worries me. My box is perhaps 2-3 years old. It was a large size 11x17 and it just sat there until I started this series of gum prints inspired by Chia's method. They are all 11x14 and I am working on another set of 4 prints. Hopefully the transparency changes for the better. Keep us posted as my box of 100 is getting used up pretty fast. Off to coat the yellow layer Marek > From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com > Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 10:02:04 -0500 > To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > > Yes, I use QTR to print my negatives. > > - Jeremy > > On Jun 22, 2013, at 9:53 AM, Marek Matusz wrote: > > > Jeremy > > > > Are you using QTR for printing? > > > > Marek > > > >> From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com > >> Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 17:51:31 -0500 > >> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > >> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > >> > >> 100x 8.5x11 new ultrafine transparency: $45 > >> > >> 100x 8.5x11 inkpress: $85 > >> > >> I'm going to try it with the 7800 (K3 inks) and the 1400 (claria dye inks). > >> > >> - Jeremy > >> > >> On Jun 21, 2013, at 5:33 PM, "Eric Neilsen" wrote: > >> > >>> Inkpress is what I use for my printing negs. 7800, 4800, K3 inks. > >>> > >>> > >>> Eric Neilsen > >>> 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 > >>> Dallas, TX 75226 > >>> 214-827-8301 > >>> > >>> www.ericneilsenphotography.com > >>> SKYPE ejprinter > >>> > >>> > >>> -----Original Message----- > >>> From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org > >>> [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of > >>> Jeremy Moore > >>> Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 4:14 PM > >>> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > >>> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > >>> > >>> I have a dye and a pigment printer so I ordered a box of the cheaper > >>> ultrafine OHP to test out. Plus, I have a project requiring 121 negatives so > >>> cheaper is better! > >>> > >>> - Jeremy > >>> > >>> On Jun 20, 2013, at 6:44 PM, "Don" wrote: > >>> > >>>> Wish Don asked me before throwing his Ultrafine in the trash - Ultrafine > >>>> alone makes nice gums. Love the clear base. > >>>> > >>>> This product maybe the new and improved Ultrafine Clear Film > >>>> > >>>> http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulinwafi.html > >>>> > >>>> Much less expensive. > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com Sat Jun 22 15:34:36 2013 From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com (Jeremy Moore) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 10:34:36 -0500 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> <6CE1ED4DD0E94DC4B223D9F411814597@FireBreather> <010101ce6ecf$55f6db10$01e49130$@net> <0AD0D39F-B0E4-421D-A802-518DF67ECDE4@gmail.com> Message-ID: <668E39D4-B500-453D-9F2E-2DE81CB15E1E@gmail.com> Gum, cyanotype, casein, pt/pd, carbon, etc, etc. Why limit myself? :) - Jeremy On Jun 22, 2013, at 10:14 AM, Marek Matusz wrote: > Then you should have no issues selecting and controlling the ink. What process are you planning to use them for? > > I just noticed the word NEW next to the transparency. That always worries me. My box is perhaps 2-3 years old. It was a large size 11x17 and it just sat there until I started this series of gum prints inspired by Chia's method. They are all 11x14 and I am working on another set of 4 prints. Hopefully the transparency changes for the better. Keep us posted as my box of 100 is getting used up pretty fast. > Off to coat the yellow layer > Marek > >> From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com >> Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 10:02:04 -0500 >> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org >> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip >> >> Yes, I use QTR to print my negatives. >> >> - Jeremy >> >> On Jun 22, 2013, at 9:53 AM, Marek Matusz wrote: >> >>> Jeremy >>> >>> Are you using QTR for printing? >>> >>> Marek >>> >>>> From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com >>>> Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 17:51:31 -0500 >>>> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org >>>> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip >>>> >>>> 100x 8.5x11 new ultrafine transparency: $45 >>>> >>>> 100x 8.5x11 inkpress: $85 >>>> >>>> I'm going to try it with the 7800 (K3 inks) and the 1400 (claria dye inks). >>>> >>>> - Jeremy >>>> >>>> On Jun 21, 2013, at 5:33 PM, "Eric Neilsen" wrote: >>>> >>>>> Inkpress is what I use for my printing negs. 7800, 4800, K3 inks. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Eric Neilsen >>>>> 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 >>>>> Dallas, TX 75226 >>>>> 214-827-8301 >>>>> >>>>> www.ericneilsenphotography.com >>>>> SKYPE ejprinter >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>> From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org >>>>> [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of >>>>> Jeremy Moore >>>>> Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 4:14 PM >>>>> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org >>>>> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip >>>>> >>>>> I have a dye and a pigment printer so I ordered a box of the cheaper >>>>> ultrafine OHP to test out. Plus, I have a project requiring 121 negatives so >>>>> cheaper is better! >>>>> >>>>> - Jeremy >>>>> >>>>> On Jun 20, 2013, at 6:44 PM, "Don" wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Wish Don asked me before throwing his Ultrafine in the trash - Ultrafine >>>>>> alone makes nice gums. Love the clear base. >>>>>> >>>>>> This product maybe the new and improved Ultrafine Clear Film >>>>>> >>>>>> http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulinwafi.html >>>>>> >>>>>> Much less expensive. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo >> _______________________________________________ >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From marekmatusz at hotmail.com Sat Jun 22 19:08:55 2013 From: marekmatusz at hotmail.com (Marek Matusz) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 19:08:55 +0000 Subject: [Alt-photo] Gum coating video In-Reply-To: <668E39D4-B500-453D-9F2E-2DE81CB15E1E@gmail.com> References: , , <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu>, , <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com>, <6CE1ED4DD0E94DC4B223D9F411814597@FireBreather>, , <010101ce6ecf$55f6db10$01e49130$@net>, , , <0AD0D39F-B0E4-421D-A802-518DF67ECDE4@gmail.com>, , <668E39D4-B500-453D-9F2E-2DE81CB15E1E@gmail.com> Message-ID: While I was coating my yellow gum layer today I remembered that Chris mentioned that she has no luck using rollers. SO I filmed it and here it is. My way of coating with rollers. I know that many on the list are using foam rollers and there is nothing new here, but maybe somebody can learn.It was fun making the video, now to exposing and development.https://plus.google.com/photos/105732508998271877151/albums/5882305049320410433 Marek From marekmatusz at hotmail.com Sat Jun 22 20:10:07 2013 From: marekmatusz at hotmail.com (Marek Matusz) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 20:10:07 +0000 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip In-Reply-To: <668E39D4-B500-453D-9F2E-2DE81CB15E1E@gmail.com> References: , , <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu>, , <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com>, <6CE1ED4DD0E94DC4B223D9F411814597@FireBreather>, , <010101ce6ecf$55f6db10$01e49130$@net>, , , <0AD0D39F-B0E4-421D-A802-518DF67ECDE4@gmail.com>, , <668E39D4-B500-453D-9F2E-2DE81CB15E1E@gmail.com> Message-ID: DId not mean to limit your expression, just the amount of ink. Let us know in terms of QTR percentages of ink load of how much you can load this transparency material. Marek > From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com > Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 10:34:36 -0500 > To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > > Gum, cyanotype, casein, pt/pd, carbon, etc, etc. Why limit myself? :) > > - Jeremy > > On Jun 22, 2013, at 10:14 AM, Marek Matusz wrote: > > > Then you should have no issues selecting and controlling the ink. What process are you planning to use them for? > > > > I just noticed the word NEW next to the transparency. That always worries me. My box is perhaps 2-3 years old. It was a large size 11x17 and it just sat there until I started this series of gum prints inspired by Chia's method. They are all 11x14 and I am working on another set of 4 prints. Hopefully the transparency changes for the better. Keep us posted as my box of 100 is getting used up pretty fast. > > Off to coat the yellow layer > > Marek > > > >> From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com > >> Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 10:02:04 -0500 > >> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > >> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > >> > >> Yes, I use QTR to print my negatives. > >> > >> - Jeremy > >> > >> On Jun 22, 2013, at 9:53 AM, Marek Matusz wrote: > >> > >>> Jeremy > >>> > >>> Are you using QTR for printing? > >>> > >>> Marek > >>> > >>>> From: alt.photosbyjeremy at gmail.com > >>>> Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 17:51:31 -0500 > >>>> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > >>>> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > >>>> > >>>> 100x 8.5x11 new ultrafine transparency: $45 > >>>> > >>>> 100x 8.5x11 inkpress: $85 > >>>> > >>>> I'm going to try it with the 7800 (K3 inks) and the 1400 (claria dye inks). > >>>> > >>>> - Jeremy > >>>> > >>>> On Jun 21, 2013, at 5:33 PM, "Eric Neilsen" wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> Inkpress is what I use for my printing negs. 7800, 4800, K3 inks. > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> Eric Neilsen > >>>>> 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 > >>>>> Dallas, TX 75226 > >>>>> 214-827-8301 > >>>>> > >>>>> www.ericneilsenphotography.com > >>>>> SKYPE ejprinter > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> -----Original Message----- > >>>>> From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org > >>>>> [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of > >>>>> Jeremy Moore > >>>>> Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 4:14 PM > >>>>> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org > >>>>> Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Epson printing tip > >>>>> > >>>>> I have a dye and a pigment printer so I ordered a box of the cheaper > >>>>> ultrafine OHP to test out. Plus, I have a project requiring 121 negatives so > >>>>> cheaper is better! > >>>>> > >>>>> - Jeremy > >>>>> > >>>>> On Jun 20, 2013, at 6:44 PM, "Don" wrote: > >>>>> > >>>>>> Wish Don asked me before throwing his Ultrafine in the trash - Ultrafine > >>>>>> alone makes nice gums. Love the clear base. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> This product maybe the new and improved Ultrafine Clear Film > >>>>>> > >>>>>> http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulinwafi.html > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Much less expensive. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > >>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > >>>>> > >>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo From gemeentehuis at gmail.com Sun Jun 23 08:49:14 2013 From: gemeentehuis at gmail.com (Bert Kuijer) Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 10:49:14 +0200 Subject: [Alt-photo] Re: Gum coating video In-Reply-To: References: <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu> <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com> <6CE1ED4DD0E94DC4B223D9F411814597@FireBreather> <010101ce6ecf$55f6db10$01e49130$@net> <0AD0D39F-B0E4-421D-A802-518DF67ECDE4@gmail.com> <668E39D4-B500-453D-9F2E-2DE81CB15E1E@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hello Marek, Very nice, thank you. Learning by seeing always works best, in my opinion. Thanks, Bert from Holland http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl 2013/6/22 Marek Matusz > > > While I was coating my yellow gum layer today I remembered that Chris > mentioned that she has no luck using rollers. SO I filmed it and here it > is. My way of coating with rollers. I know that many on the list are using > foam rollers and there is nothing new here, but maybe somebody can learn.It > was fun making the video, now to exposing and development. > https://plus.google.com/photos/105732508998271877151/albums/5882305049320410433Marek > _______________________________________________ > Alt-photo-process-list | lists.altphotolist.org/mailman/listinfo > From bobkiss at caribsurf.com Wed Jun 26 16:36:07 2013 From: bobkiss at caribsurf.com (BOB KISS) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 12:36:07 -0400 Subject: [Alt-photo] E-MAIL ADR FOR YOUR "FAVORITE GUY" Message-ID: DEAR LIST, I recall that a few of us have had problems with COT 320 from time to time and John Horowy has been hesitant to address the issues. I need to contact John but his jhorowy at hotmail.com address returned an error ?massage?. I then sent the same e-mail to sales at bergger.com so someone there should receive it. Does anyone who has communicated with John have a different/newer e-mail address for John? Does anyone know whether he still works at Bergger USA? CHEERS! BOB Please check my website: http://www.bobkiss.com/ "Live as if you are going to die tomorrow. Learn as if you are going to live forever". Mahatma Gandhi "Earth" without "art" is just "Eh"! (Anonymous graffiti posted on Facebook) ?Madonne e fiori, trionfo eterno di giovent?!? from Mattinata Fiorentina by Antonella Ruggiero __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 8493 (20130626) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From emanphoto at gmail.com Fri Jun 28 16:20:07 2013 From: emanphoto at gmail.com (eric nelson) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 23:20:07 +0700 Subject: [Alt-photo] Bummer Message-ID: http://bostick-sullivan.invisionzone.com/cgi-sys/suspendedpage.cgi I've been trying to reach an alt photographer in Bangkok, Bill Clarke. Anyone have an email for him? Thanks e -- Eric Nelson Photography 086 343 1612 http://ericnelsonphoto.tumblr.com/ https://www.facebook.com/EricNelsonPhotographyBangkok From marekmatusz at hotmail.com Fri Jun 28 19:27:54 2013 From: marekmatusz at hotmail.com (Marek Matusz) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 19:27:54 +0000 Subject: [Alt-photo] More gum printing In-Reply-To: References: , , <13E40A95-AB58-44E2-BFAB-6AC9CE966C3C@clemson.edu>, , <5883FBF6-383F-4541-85A0-713123F78743@gmail.com>, <6CE1ED4DD0E94DC4B223D9F411814597@FireBreather>, , <010101ce6ecf$55f6db10$01e49130$@net>, , , <0AD0D39F-B0E4-421D-A802-518DF67ECDE4@gmail.com>, , <668E39D4-B500-453D-9F2E-2DE81CB15E1E@gmail.com>, , Message-ID: All, Another interesting gum printning observation to share. I have been working on my 4 color gums and a few days ago I make a first black pass and I was not happy with it. So I said, what the heck and flipped the paper to the unsized side. The paper is BFK Rives 280 on the reverse side (already soaked) and printed a graphite layer. I was never able to achieve clear highlights with no size before and it looked like the same case now during the soak development. Then I took the sprayer bottle and started spraying as I have been doing now. The highlights cleared just fine. The print has a bit more definition (finer gradation)as compared to the print on sized paper and I would go with less exposure next time. What a surprise! For comparison I have the same graphite layer printed on BFK Rives sized with my typical PVA 1:1 mix.I am not sure if it is the graphite that is so non-staining or perhaps I could go with further layers with no fog or staining. I am printing cobalt blue today. Here is the link to the picture, you have to scroll to the bottom https://plus.google.com/photos/105732508998271877151/albums/5882305049320410433/5884207401141420818?pid=5884207401141420818&oid=105732508998271877151 Marek