Re: bromoil
Peter charles fredrick (pete@fotem.demon.co.uk)
Mon, 22 Jan 1996 00:40:07 +0100
One or two further knacks might help,when you start to ink starve the print
only put a very small amount of ink onto a glass pallets, again a size of
a pea or smaller, I use a hard lino roller or brayer, as it is sometimes
called, too squash the ink and roll it out so that it forms a smooth puddle
,if you are using a brush dab it into this puddle then dab it onto the
glass ,again and again until there is almost no ink in the brush ,and only
then start to ink up the print, it does not matter at this stage if hardly
any image shows,just slowly and lightly work over the entire surface so
that if you hold it up to the light so that you can see the inks glazed
surface,now place the print face down in a tray of cold water,so that it
floats for a minute, or two , try to not to get water on the back of the
print,if you do wipe it dry before returning to inking the inking slab
,dab the surface of the print before starting to re-ink,now take the brush
back to the ink pallet and dab back into the puddle of ink and push it in
so that it is fully charged up.
With the brush fully charged with ink. Start to press down with a smudging
motion and then the image should start to appear now it is just a case
working slow and steady.
I prefer to use a foam roller for these initial manoeuvres I think I
invented this system with bromoil/oil printing making, see Creative Sun
printing focal press 1980 sadly out of print, but still in some libraries.
Another little trick is to take the bromoil matrix before initial soaking
and polish the surface with pure turps not white spirit, but the pure
turps used in oil painting, that has a lovely smell,it conditions the
matrix to take ink easily.
I hope this helps pete