Re:waterproof/removable glue

J. Wayde Allen 303-497-5871 (allen@boulder.nist.gov)
Mon, 22 Jan 1996 10:10:40 -0700 (MST)

On Mon, 22 Jan 1996, Judy Seigel wrote:

> Well, speaking of great minds, Luis mentioned gelatine, too. I don't
> know if the gelatine would stick to aluminum -- the metal has been sanded,
> so it might.

I would guess that the rough sanded surface would be sufficient, but
you'll have to give it a try to know for sure. It might also be possible
to improve the adhesion by anodizing the aluminum, and coating it with the
gelatin layer without first sealing the anodized layer. The unsealed
anodized coating is very porous, and might soak up some of the gelatin.

I have heard of people sensitizing aluminum sheets by "dying" the
anodized film with light sensitive chemicals. Has anyone on this list
tried this?

> But note that just doing the *outside edges* is beside the point,
> insufficient, and no good, unless the paper is thicker than I'm trying to
> use, as I explained initially. (Though, Sam, I think you're using a much
> heavier paper than I am, which might indeed work.) But gluing just the
> edges would be the same as using a waterproof tape around the edges as I
> have done, or even a *non-soluble* glue around the edges.

I would think that you could glue the entire sheet to a layer of gelatin.
Separating the support from your paper would then be essentially the same
as removing the temporary support in the carbon transfer process.
Aluminum is also a good thermal conductor, so simply heating it would
likely melt the gelatin layer without much trouble. I don't know if this
would disturb your print though.

- Wayde Allen
(allen@boulder.nist.gov)