Yes, and you also don't want the shadows so dense you can't "get through"
them with the next exposure.
> 3006 or 3005 drum using HC-110(1:19 from concentrate) at 70 F. for 4
> minutes(rotation speed 4). The positive is enlarged onto same film and
What, for us peasants back in the manual age, is "rotation speed 4"? How
many rotations per minute, or whatever?
> developed in same chemistry and temp. for 9 to 12 minutes in a JOBO
> 11x14 or 16x20 PRINT drum. The print drum works fine and cost much
> less than the JOBO film drum. I suspect that Judy Seigel's open tube
Just for curiosity, what does the 16 by 20 print drum cost, about?
> method would work equally well as JOBOs don't grow on trees. The
But I REALLY like the open tube -- and one other thing. For economy, I
got the clear acrylic. After that came into a piece of PVA tube from the
street. I like the clear acrylic better -- can see right off if
something awful is happening (like putting the film in emulsion side out,
a bad thing I myself would never do by accident, of course).
> my right AND 3 months coming up away from photo students, I just might
> find what I am looking for (OR wish that I was on a beach somewhere
> sipping Gin and Tonics)
Jonathan, don't do that -- gin rots your braincells. I'll add, BTW, that I
develop N31P in Dektol 1 to 6 to 1 to 10, for 3 minutes, 4 minutes tops,
rolling at comfortable constant speed. That's for flat negatives for gum
printing.
Judy