In the past, I've (1) contacted to a positive and then (2) enalrged to make
the negative, doing all the burning and dodging and most of the contrast
adjustment at the second stage. The original and the contact were tri-x in
hc-110b, and the final negative was AGFA n31p (purchased from Palladio,
quite expensive). This worked relatively well, but took a long time, and I
had a hard time controlling the grain.
I'm wondering how people have fared with direct-positive film, and what
films and developers work well together.
daniel barber
danl@sirius.com