>My print was very blah so I followed the instructions given and
>diluted the emulsion with my Dektol developer but as soon as the
>Dektol hits the emulsion, the mixture turns gray. I exposed it anyhow
>and the print was much better as far as values went,but now there's a
>gray wash over the parts of the print that should be white--the same
>gray that the mixture was! They don't tell you that in their product
>brochure.
>Does anyone know how to overcome this drawback?
Michele,
I remember going through the traumas of liquid light! I think I went
through $200 worth before I started getting dependable results.
When you order it, make sure to get all the bottles from the same
emulsion batch--there will be a date on the box or bottle. The age of
the emulsion affects the contrast and the newer the emulsion, the
slower it will be.
When you dilute the emulsion with dektol, use the recommended
developer-to-emulsion ratio of 1:10 (I think that was it) and apply at
least 2 coats of liquid light. Also dry the coated paper in the dark;
your safe light may be fogging the emulsion.
I was making 22 x 30 inch prints and having trouble with extra long
exposure times. The Rockland staff recommended this procedure: coat
the paper (without any developer added) and when dry put the paper in
your dektol tray, as if you were processing a print.
When the paper with emulsion is thoroughly saturated with dektol,
place it immediately in your easel and expose it like a normal print.
You will see the image develop before your eyes and can turn off the
enlarger light when the density is sufficient. It also makes
burning-in easier.
This sounds easier than it actually is (isn't everything!) and it can
be quite messy; I've been known to threaten a student's life for
putting a wet print in an easel! However, it did work for me.
Call Rockland if you run into more trouble. The staff at Rockland can
be helpful; I bet I've called them a half-dozen times, close to tears!
Shauna
frischkornsl@jccw22.cc.sunyjcc.edu