Re: Paper for Cyanotyping
Michael R. Coble (groundglass@delphi.com)
Thu, 12 Sep 1996 20:41:17 -0400
>After my first experiments with cyanotyping, which went quite well, thanks
>to the archives and your input, I have some questions about the paper:
>
>Until now I used "blotting paper", which we use in the lab, non sized and
>non buffered. I would like to start testing different commercial papers.
>As I understood from the archives this paper should be non-buffered and
>non-sized watercolor paper. I found some brand names but I am not sure if
>these are sold in Holland.
>
>So I would like to have suggestions about specifications of a good
>Cyanotype paper (weight, rag content, others). The (test) paper I now use
>can stand water, but the wet image tends to be very vunerable, this is
>standard? And how long do you wash a Cyanotype (I guess until the yellow
>color of the unexposed salt is removed), is it possible that the blue
>fades a bit after prolonged washing?
>
>Cor Breukel
>http://ruly70.medfac.leidenuniv.nl/~cor/cor.html
>"The Infrared Gallery"
>http://ruly70.medfac.leidenuniv.nl/~cor/ir-gallery.html
>
>
>I would recommend going to a business supply house and buying Crane 100%
rag bond
resume paper.Its fairly inexpensive,although a little thin and requires
gentle handling in the wash.Basically anything works with Cyanotype-It's
great for proofing negs,and for demonstrating photography to younger
students(preschool,elementary)with photograms.
I've even used it on pre-cut puzzle boards with success and developed with a
spoonge.
The important thing is to have fun and to learn from your
experiences.
Keep a notebook using a negative you think is good and try different
types of paper.The only way to tell what paper works is using a
paper you find that works for you.One that delivers the kind of
image YOU want.
Best Wishes,
Michael Coble
Groundglass Camera Repair
groundglass@delphi.com