The following formula is easy to make and will work well w/negs. of 1.80 to +/- 2.10
density range.
If Carmen coats the tissue on some scrap RC test prints it may make the whole
thing a little easier. This is a great tissue and has yielded very nice prints from
my negs.
She may also want to try her first carbon prints on some fixed out RC or Fiber Base
paper (fiber base will need a 20-30min pre-soak before transfer) as this will
increase her chances of getting positive results as she is learning the variables of
the process.
Soak 10g (Knox) + 5g sugar in 60ml cold water. Let swell for 30 min.
(a small glass jar would work for a container).
Cover and place in a water bath stabilized @ 103-105 deg. F. Let this stand
30 min. Uncover and slowly stir in 1/2cc alcohol, cover and let stand another 30 min.
Check the melt for bubbles (suspended in the melt and at the top) and
stir another 1/2cc alcohol to the mix. Let stand another 15-20min. and there should
be no bubbles anywhere! Now carefully stir in 2ml Green Bottle Sumi ink (the cheap
student grade) and your ready to coat. Any bubbles that occur
after this point are most likely caused during the coating in the form of air bells
that can occur during poring/spreading and as long as they arn't right on top I
wouldn't worry too much. A piece of damp nylon stocking placed over the mouth of the
jar may help as does poring out the pigmented emulsion close (1-2 inches above) the
substrate to be coated.
After the sheet has set, tack w/push pins to board and place in a vert position in a
dust free (give it your best shot) area to dry. " Have patience young Skywalker even
though you experience the power of the Dark Side of carbon printing and your labors
will be rewarded if you faint not".
Sensitize in a tray of cold 3% ammonium dichromate sol. (use ice cubes in a zip lock
for temp. controll) 60-63 deg.F for 3min. Make sure to remove all airbells from the
pigment surface during the first 30secs. Drain at corner and tack to board to dry
(vert) in a cool dark room. I'd leave it overnight and print the next day for speed
stability sake.
Safelight = 1 60watt bug light @ 5-7ft. from work area. Trial exposure of 20mins. to
a 175watt (clear type) mercury bulb placed 16 inches (f16) or 10mins. at 11 inches
(f11) from the printing frame is a good starting point w/negs that do not have FBF
levels over 0.10 and upper highlight densities over 2.10-2.20. I would place a fan to
blow air across the face of the frame to minimize any heat generated from light.
Transfer in a stale water bath @ 60-65deg.F. Use zip locks w/ice for temp controll.
Exposed tissue in face up. Use soft brush to dislodge any air bells, turn over and do
same to back. Tissue face up again and keep it under.
Take a piece of fixed out RC paper (no conditioning soak required) and slip it in the
tray w/the pigment tissue. Dislodge any air bells from the reciever
side, bring the two face to face under water and draw them out as a sandwich. Total
transfer time 45sec-1min.
Place sandwich on plate glass and w/short quick (not hard) strokes, work from the
center out to the sides with your squeege to expell the water. Dry well around the
enges and let it sit for 10-15 mins. (20-30mins. for fixed out fiber base paper
w/proper per-soak. All excess water should be blotted off both sides and the sandwich
laid on newsprint during the lay by time. No weight is necessary as adheasion to the
substrate is generated by the suction created at the substrate interface as the
pigment tissue completes its swelling during the redistribution of water within the
gelatin pigment film. Its like a sponge you got part wet...it will continue to expand
until it reaches an equilibrium with the water inside it. Soak too long in the
transfer bath and no suction because too water was absorbed. Too short and the
developing of the print or even the removal of the backing sheet may
be impossible.
Develop in tray of water 100-105deg.F as you normally (or abnormally) would
and if you have a good results after say 3-5min move to a cold water bath to chill
then move on to the wash for at least 30 min. Lay face up on screen to dry. Any
dichromate staining left can be removed later...thats another story.
All The Above Info Is To Be Considered A Point Of Departure Only And Not The Only Way
To Make Carbon Tissue Or Prints.
Best Regards,
Michael Sandquist
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>Hello all, and thanks for the get well wishes; I'm strong enough today to
>make ginger tea, a new formula from neighbor Dugdale which is *very*
>invigorating, if not better than chicken soup.... but here's the letter