My favorite combo is FP4+ in PMK for 8 to 10 minutes at 80 degrees F. I
process all my sheet film by rotary methods. I use Jobo Expert drums
for 8x10 and 4x5. I don't own a Jobo processor. Rather, I turn these
drums on Beseler Motor bases that I've picked up used for about $25 to
$40 each.
I strongly recommend using distilled water for both the stock and
working solutions. I do not add EDTA to my Pyro solutions.
I start with a 5-minute pre-soak in a solution of 1/2 teaspoon of sodium
metaborate per liter of water at the developer temp.
For the 8x10 drum I make up 2 liters of working solution. While the
drum is turning, I use a large funnel with a short piece of flexible
hose attached to pour 1 liter of the working solution into the drum.
Pour slowly or developer will slosh out of the end of the drum. Every
30 seconds to 1 minute, I pick up the drum turn it upright momentarily,
then place it back down on the base facing the opposite direction so it
now turns in the opposite direction. This helps to prevent streaking
that can sometimes accompany rotary processing. At the half-way point
of the processing time, I dump out the developer and pour in the second
half of the volume as before. For stop bath, I use plain water; 2
baths, approximately 30 seconds each. I fix for 3 minutes in Kodak
Rapid Fixer (hardner left out). For the Pyro after-bath, I use a
solution of sodium metaborate (same as the presoak) rather than the
spent developer. I found that with rotary processing, the developer
gets so highly oxidized that it turns a deep red color and the
after-bath had the tendency to impart a reddish stain rather than the
normal yellow-green Pyro stain. Wash for 20 minutes, dip in photo-flo
and hang to dry.
For 7"x17", 8"x20", 11"x14" and 12"x20" films, I use the same
procedure, except that rather than using a Jobo drum, I've made
processing tubes from 3" and 4" diameter black ABS pipe. I use soft
rubber caps that are made for this type of material to cover the ends.
I make the tubes 3 or 4 inches longer than the film to avoid higher
density buildup that seems to be caused turbulence near the ends of the
drums. I have 3 motor bases, so I can process 3 sheets of these large
films at one time. Works great for me!
I've also used the Jobo 4x5 drums with the reel-like thingys
(2500-series??), but found that they were somewhat susceptible to edge
density build-up. I have a 6-sheet drum and 12-sheet drum for sale, if
anyone wants them...
Someone (Carl, I think) asked specifically about HP5+. I use this film
occaisionally when I absolutely need the film speed, but it has a very
high degree of base fog and in my experience does not produce nearly as
nice a negative for platinum/palladium as FP4+. HP5+ does stain well,
but it just isn't a film that I like.
By the way, I also use PMK for 35mm and 120 roll films with great
success. No special instructions, other than keeping the reels
absolutely free of Photo-flo, as others have mentioned. I never dunk my
roll film reels into PhotoFlo any more. I remove the film from the
reel, then Photo-flo it in a tray.
That's what I know...
Kerik Kouklis
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http://www.jps.net/kerik/
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