Argyrotypes

BMercerTX@aol.com
Tue, 03 Feb 1998 08:08:12 -0500 (EST)

I have received several questions about the Artyrotypes and I will try to
answer them although I still consider myself a novice with Argyrotypes and
certainly with Alt processing of any kind.

Michael,
I have not tried to alter the contrast. I am shooting still life images with
a 5x7 camera and since I can control lighting, I have figured out how to
expose and develop to get a neg that will print okay.

I have also not tried the process yet with a digital neg but I am sure it will
work.

Please share your Selenium toning procedure because if I left a print in the
selenium toner for 15 minutes it would have bleached to a sickly yellow-
orange. I don't know how you can get a purple color with this chemistry.

Karen,
I too started printing with the Argyrotypes last year....maybe 8 or 9 months
ago. Before that I had done a few Van Dykes. It is difficult for me to
compare the two processes because I have so little experience with the Van
Dykes. When I started to use the Argyrotype process things just came together
for me and looking back now I realize that it was as much just gaining
experience as it was the different chemistry. I am having good success with
this process.

I was in England last fall and had the opportunity to visit with Mike Ware who
developed the chemistry. I took along some prints to show him and he was
pleased that I was getting good results with the process. You might want to
go to his web site. He makes a few remarks about the archival properties of
Argyrotypes. mike@mikeware.demon.co.uk

About the whites in the Argyrotypes....I find that the paper makes a
difference. I get the whitest whites with the Cranes Parchmont. And
sometimes on the same printing session I will get a white in one print and
not the other of the same neg. I don't know enough about alternative
processes to say why this happens. What paper are you using?

I have not tried to print on fabric.

John,
Yes I do mean 1/4 teaspoon of Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner to 500 ml of water.

Now for all of you. What is your processing procedure? Mine is
Expose
Develop in tap water for 5 minutes (at one time I tried distilled water
because I worried that the chlorine in the tap water might bleach the print)
Tone (if I wish)
Fix (sodium Thiosulfate 1-1/2 tsp to 500 ml water - I think Terry mentioned
that it should be a 2% solution of hypo. Don't know if this qualifies or not)
Wash in 4 changes of water (2 minutes)
Kodak Hypo clearing Agent (2 minutes)
Wash for 15 minutes

Is this the right way to do it? I have no idea but it is working for me.

If anyone will be in Houston for Foto Fest in March, I will have a show of
this work up at Archway Gallery.

Billie