Re: No More TMAX!
Richard Knoppow (dickburk@ix.netcom.com)
Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:47:21 -0800
At 06:13 PM 2/24/98 -0800, Adam Kimball wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Well, I've become tired of dealing with TMAX. I use BTZS tubes to
>develop TMAX 400 and am sick of fixing the film for 15 minutes - washing
>for 30(super-strong anti-halation coating), its easily scratching
>surfaces (when wet), etc. So..
>
>All you platinum/kallitype people out there who shoot with view
>cameras. What do you use and why? I know this must be awfully tired,
>but...
>
>Here is what I am looking forward.
>
>* Relatively fast ASA 250-> preferably
>* Decent Reciprocity characteristics
>* Ability to develop to proper platinum density levels
>* Ability to get the contrast up, and keep the tones.
>
>I.E. Everything everyone else wants. So, I'd love to hear your
>recommendations (please include something about the way you develop the
>film as well.)
>
>Take care,
>Adam
>--
>______________________________________________________________
>-Adam Kimball Fine Brand Media Incorporated-
>-akimball@finebrand.com http://www.finebrand.com-
>
Something is wrong if you need to fix this long. Do you mean
anti-halation coating or the sensitizing dye which is sometimes left in the
emulsion?
The anti-halation layer is decolorized by the developer and the fixer both.
The sensitizing dye tends to persist as a magenta stain. It can be
removed completely by a two minute treatment in Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent
or other wash aid or a 2% solution of Sodium Sulfite.
T-Max films have more Silver Iodide in them than most other films. That
leaches out into the fixer slowing it down. However, T-Max clears
completely in less than four minutes in fresh Kodak F-5 or packaged Kodak
Fixer, and a lot less in an Ammonium fixer like Kodak Rapid Fixer. Fixing
times are usually recommended to be twice clearing time although film is
completely fixed as soon as its cleared. To be sure, use a two bath
arrangement with either standard or rapid fixer. Then treat with the wash
aid and wash for five minutes.
It has been suggested that the residual dye is due to under fixing but
I've found that even extended fixing (twenty minutes) in freshly mixed hypo
doesn't completely remove it. It just does not come out in hypo. Washing
without the wash aid should be for at least half an hour in any case, and
should get most of it out. It is fugitive in light and will fade with time
in any case.
Using the wash aid is the surest way of removing it.
T-Max is excellent stuff but requires some care since it seems to be more
sentitive to developer temperature than most other films.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com