TERRY KING <KINGNAPOLEONPHOTO@compuserve.com> wrote:
>I have never had an attack of mould on my cyanotype mixtures either when A
>& B are mixed together for storage or kept for up to a year. In both cases
>the solutions provide goodprints. But I have never added any oxalic acid
>to the mixtures.
Cor Breukel <cor@ruly46.medfac.leidenuniv.nl> wrote:
>..Tom, what is the advantage/use of adding Oxalic acid and Ammonium
>Dichromate?..
I have always used this formula. I believe it is from Sward's "The New
Photography" and the Oxalic Acid is used as a "preservative" while the
Ammonium Dichromate is "I assume" added for contrast. I will have to try
the simpler version!
sal <sal@napc.com>
>I have had many a nest of mold on my cyanotype "A" solution. I just grab
>it with a pencil or pen and throw it away. The stuff seems to cling
>together in one big disgusting globule. I suppose if you were worried
>about excess mold being left behind you could filter it. I have never
>bothered and am currently using the same "A" solution for the past year
>and a half without any ill effects to my prints.
I've gotten this response from a number of people. I simply "assumed" that
anything moldy belonged in the trash ;-) I will try using it (after the
mold is remove).....ICHK!
Richard Sullivan <richsul@earthlink.net>
>Mike Ware's New Cyanotype eliminates both problems. First it doesn't grow
>mold and secondly it is a one solution system. We sell it. Yes it is more
>expensive but as alt-photo stuff goes it will cost perhaps 15 cents per
>8x10, so in practice pretty cheap. It also gives much darker blues.
Actually I have tried it. I started this series on some very old Parchmont
Wove I purchased from B&S perhaps 6 years ago (with my regular cyanotype
formula). I then tried the Ware version (from B&S) and loved it. I ran
out of the old paper and the Ware at the same time. Ordered more of both
from B&S, then nothing worked. I couldn't get the Ware to clear beyond
about zone 6.5. My regular cyanotype formula worked the same on the new
paper? I tried changing from citric to hydrochloric acid in the first
clearing bath. I tried adding citric acid to the Ware mix. I tried a few
other papers. B&S were as helpful as could be, spent quite a bit of time
on the phone with me trying to solve my problem. They even sent me a new
bottle free of charge. I just couldn't make the stuff work anymore?
Others obviously have had success with this formula, I'd love to hear from
them. I do hate "defeat"!
About this time someone on the list (Bob Schramm was that you??) mentioned
that double coating cyanotype resulted in about the same d-max as the Ware
formula. I tried it, it worked, I never looked back ;-)
I really want to thank everyone who replied so quickly.... What a wonderful
resource we have in this list. Thank you all.
tomf2468@pipeline.com (Tom Ferguson)