>In a message dated 4/8/98 11:12:06 PM, FotoDave@aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>>2. When you move the film from the developer to the stop bath, do you move as
>>frantically fast as I do (has to be less than 3 seconds)?
>Yes, but see below
>>
>>3. What dilution and development time do you use? I am developing the film
>for gum.
>
>I am using HC110 diluted 1:10 as a first bath for 2 minutes, then a quick dip
>(usually 1 min) in some very tired Ilford paper developer. I don't worry about
>drip drying it in between. Then off to the stop bath quickly.
>
It is wonderful and interesting how many paths lead to one destination in
the alt-process world! This is similar to my methods, but I'm curious
about a few things.
Is your "1:10" HC-110 concentration from pure (strait out of the bottle)
solution?? Or are you making a dilution first (if memory serves, Kodak
suggests a "pre-dilution"). I use about a 4:00 time in HC-110 at 18ml per
liter (strait out of the bottle, or about 1:55). Wording "concentrations"
for HC-110 is confusing (due to Kodak's "pre-dilution"). I like the longer
developing time, as I get (with my film and working methods) less mottling
and better shadow separation at 4:00. I've always found tray development
times less than 3:00 dangerous with film. What is rour aggetation with a
2:00 minute development time?
Why do you use "very tired Ilford paper developer"? For gum or cyan negs,
I find the HC-110 just fine. For plat or palladium negs, I use diluted
Zone VI paper develop as a second development bath, typically for 45
seconds. I dilute this 1:7 as opposed to it's normal 1:3. I suspect any
paper developer at twice it's normal dilution (1/2 strength) would do.
What advantage do you get with using the "tired". How do you maintain
consistency?
tomf2468@pipeline.com (Tom Ferguson)