> Judy was/is correct re seperating the resin coating (RC) from the paper
> … however, a very simple manner to do so is the trick of placing the
> print in rather warm water. Temperature is not important, just make sure
> is is much wrmer than your body temp but not hot to scald or bother you.
>
> Let sit for a mintue so as to let the heat penetrate, then, holding the
> print on the bottom of the tray (smooth bottom helps here) slightly
> "rough" the corner with your finger by pulling your index finger down
> over the pointed corner. In a few strokes, the backing ought to start to
> seperate.
That's very ingenious Jack... did you think that up, or learn it from a
student? (source of many a trick, needless to say). But now, since you
know so much, how about a few words on WHY? Does the peeled skin work
better in contact than the full RC paper? Perhaps for a hand-coated
process it does -- where times could be quite long. But isn't that skin
awfully curly, so that it's a problem to get to lay flat? I've never done
this trick, as noted, but any peeling with fibre paper does curl
seriously.
However, I did a lot of contacting of doubleweight fibre prints to make
enlarged negatives... there times are about 25 seconds at f 5.6, so time
isn't a problem... To get good enough contact though (without peeling) I
had to use a vacuum easel... the NOISE is heinous.
cheers,
Judy
> If you are a nervous person and bit your fingernatils it may be hard to
> graps, if so, use a pair of tweezers, otherwise, grasp the corner …
> still under the warm water … and pul slowly the two layera apart. It
> really goes swiftly if you do this.
> I have tried, fruitlessly, and, as Ms. S notably notes, 'abjectly'
> failed to get the twain to unmeet.
>
> You can easily learn this technique in moments and it is easy.
>
> Jack Fulton
>
>
>