Don Bryant (dsbryant@worldnet.att.net)
Tue, 19 Oct 1999 21:23:39 -0400
Kerik,
I haven't used Rollo yet since I am loath to change anything that requires
me to retest my film development. Generally I'm pretty pleased with giving
the film a 2 min. presoak in a very dilute Kodalk bath prior to loading into
the drum. I only process 4x5 sheets nothing larger but never the less the
large drums work quite well for 8 sheets at a time. Plus I can purchase used
beseler drums really cheap. Usually $5 to $10 each.
BTW, I also use drums for processing with XTOL and HC110 with fine results.
Thanks for sharing your techniques and I really enjoy your new Web pages.
How do you scan your images? I assume with a flat bead scanner.
Don Bryant
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kerik717@aol.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: jobo help
> Don Bryant writes:
>
> > Great tips about the Beseler motor bases, I am already
> > using them with Beseler 8x10 and 11x14 tubes, but
> > are you processing your film with pyro/PMK. If so
> > are you pre-soaking the film before loading into
> > the drum.?
>
> I've been using nothing but Pyro (PMK and more recently "Rollo") for the
past 5 or 6 years and always by rotary methods. I've been aware of Pyro's
great compatibility with platinum printing since I began using it and was
also immediately aware of it's ability to produce "multi-purpose" negatives
back when I was still making silver gelatin prints. As more and more people
seem to be discovering, Pyro is Good Stuff.
>
> Anyway, I do not wet-load the Jobo drums or my home-made tubes. I find if
I place the 8x10 film in the Jobo Expert drum with the "C" facing away from
the center of the drum, I almost never have a problem with the film sticking
to the interior surface and leaving residual anti-halation dye. For my
home-made tubes, I do a 5 minute metaborate presoak (in the rotating drum).
Halfway through the presoak time, I open the drum (lights off!) and gently
peel the film away from the interior surface of the drum. Once a little
water gets behind the film, there is never any problem with sticking or
residual anti-halation dye.
>
> hope that helps,
> Kerik
> www.Kerik.com
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