ken (watsok@frii.com)
Wed, 20 Oct 1999 21:19:57 -0600
It would be easier to add groves to the inside of the PVC pipe. If you can
find a good wood working store or someone who is a wood carver they would
have a gouge with a small radius or a corner chisel that could easily cut
grooves in the PVC for the same effect (negative bumps for negative
processing). It might be easier for them to show YOU how to use the tool :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Jen & Steve [mailto:czks@email.msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 12:34 PM
To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
Subject: Re: jobo help
I've been using a Jobo-like drum processor that uses raised dimples inside
the drum to keep the film from touching the surface. I was wondering if some
sort of adhesive could be applied to the inside surface of the abs tubes to
form "dot candy" style dimples to prevent the film from touching the surface
and causing the staining problems.
-steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Kerik717@aol.com <Kerik717@aol.com>
To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Date: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 5:07 PM
Subject: Re: jobo help
Don Bryant writes:
> Great tips about the Beseler motor bases, I am already
> using them with Beseler 8x10 and 11x14 tubes, but
> are you processing your film with pyro/PMK. If so
> are you pre-soaking the film before loading into
> the drum.?
I've been using nothing but Pyro (PMK and more recently "Rollo") for the
past 5 or 6 years and always by rotary methods. I've been aware of Pyro's
great compatibility with platinum printing since I began using it and was
also immediately aware of it's ability to produce "multi-purpose" negatives
back when I was still making silver gelatin prints. As more and more people
seem to be discovering, Pyro is Good Stuff.
Anyway, I do not wet-load the Jobo drums or my home-made tubes. I find if I
place the 8x10 film in the Jobo Expert drum with the "C" facing away from
the center of the drum, I almost never have a problem with the film sticking
to the interior surface and leaving residual anti-halation dye. For my
home-made tubes, I do a 5 minute metaborate presoak (in the rotating drum).
Halfway through the presoak time, I open the drum (lights off!) and gently
peel the film away from the interior surface of the drum. Once a little
water gets behind the film, there is never any problem with sticking or
residual anti-halation dye.
hope that helps,
Kerik
www.Kerik.com
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.0b3 on Fri Nov 05 1999 - 21:26:28