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Re: Vandyke Brown

Chris,

Almost any good paper will work for VDB. I have a big bunch of Cranes
Platinotype so I use that but I have put VDB onto canvas quite successfully 
(See PF No. 1). I think you will find that different
papers will have an effect on the speed of your sensitized paper so
I advise the use of tests strips and a 21 step wedge if you have one.

I have some 10-12 year old VDBs which still have not faded. Personally, I 
think that stuff about VDB fading is another myth. I have yet to see any 
proof. Nevertheless, I have toned VDB in a gold toner (the same as you would 
use for POP). It just makes the image darker brown.

Cyanotypes are also supposed to be subject to fading but again, where is the 
proof? I have a cyanotype postacard with a 1901 postmark that
looks fine.

There are claims that ammonium dichromate can be used to control contrast 
but my opinion is that its best to make a negative specifically for VDB 
since chemical contrast control is limited.

Your comment about your selenium-toned VDBs looking like a platinum
prints is quite interesting. It is an often overlooked point but
cyanotype and VDB (which is a version of kallitype) both have tonal
ranges approaching that of platinum. Indeed there was some discussion a 
while back on the "list" about the possibility of old "platinum"
prints actually being kallitypes or VDBs. I think someone suggested a
test involving hydrogen peroxide but I forget what it was. Anyway,
if some old "platinums" are really VDB then that is another argument
for stability and long tonal range.

Happy printing!

Bob Schramm


>From: CMPatti@aol.com
>Reply-To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>Subject: Vandyke Brown
>Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 21:12:27 -0400 (EDT)
>
>I've been playing around w/ my first bottle of VDB.  It's so cheap and 
>easy,
>I figured there must be a catch, so I began to wonder, how permanent is it?
>I believe I've heard that, because the silver grains are finer than in 
>silver
>gelatin, it's more susceptible to chemical attack.  Then I thought, maybe
>toning would help.  I tried a couple of prints in selenium, which turned 
>them
>from brown to a slightly warm grey ("these sure do look a lot like
>platinums") and bleached them somewhat (OK, b/c my first efforts were too
>dark after dry down).  So questions for you VDB afficianados: (1) Will 
>these
>prints last?  (2) Will selenium toning make them last longer?  (3) Any
>suggestions on paper? (I was using some Arches Platine I had lying around;
>worked OK.)  (4) Is there any way to control contrast, or do I just have to
>make perfect negatives?  Thanks for any help.
>
>Chris Patti

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