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Re: bleach/etch mordancage




On Tue, 31 Jul 2001, Christina Z. Anderson wrote:
>  ... there seems to be a couple main possibilities with the
> process.  One is to wipe off all the gelatin that dissolves, in which case
> you are left with an image that redevelops as a negative or reverse of the
> first image.  The other is to leave part of the image adhering to the paper
> base, in which case you have a positive or non-reverse of the original
> image.

My own variant, which happened because nearly all my silver gelatin
printing was solarizing, was to make a solarized (Sabatier) print, which
was mostly negative, then reverse that, so print was mostly positive.

> ... I find it interesting that
> really there are quite a few variables to produce different looks with this
> process, thus it has an appealing flexibility: e.g. do the process to a
> photogram or a regular
> image; how about using a paper negative, and thus ending up with a positive
> with complete rubbing?  Original high contrast image/low contrast image.
> Original on RC/fiber.  performing the
> process pre fix or post fix.  Developing/toning the etched print once vs.
> twice.  rubbing vs. not rubbing.

The temp (heat) of the water and strength of the bleach, also length of
the bleach, affect how much & how hard you have to rub... so rub/no rub
isn't an absolute.

 I find it very intriguing in process and
> end product, and well worth the stench.  Now, how to figure out how to share
> it with 24 students this next semester--outside--hoping it won't snow....(if
> it snowed 14 inches on June 14 it can snow anytime in MT)

Did it **really** snow 14 inches on June 14 ????!!! This year? (So
next year, will it snow 30 inches on June 30 ????)

Judy