From: Judy Seigel (jseigel@panix.com)
Date: 05/26/01-03:59:21 PM Z
Edwal Tray cleaner is a bichromate, probably potassium, with an
acid, probably sulfuric. There are many bichromate bleach formulas "in the
literature" which would almost certainly be cheaper to use, though you'd
have to add the acid yourself -- hydrochloride, if not sulfuric.
Bichromate bleach-and-redevelop formulas (usually with some potassium
bromide added) have infinite possibilities... also as "stain remover."
That is, if a print has stains or other discolorations you don't like, you
can bleach in the bichromate, then redevelop & presto (usually) it's gone.
However, I doubt the process as described below is going to be entirely
archival if it's only partly redeveloped by painting on Dektol or whatever
without re-fixing. That is, the color of what is apparently an
intermediate stage would probably change over time in the light.
The part about bleaching lightly the first time around is also unclear. If
the idea is to leave enough of the original halide to fool with later ...
have you tried it both ways to check? Bichromate bleaches don't bleach
silver halide (as others do), which is why they can be used for reversal
processing, but dubious that there could be enough left for an *effect,*
unless hardly fixed at all...
PS. Dektol DOES contain metol (in some formulas called "elon"). Which is
to say, this process may produce some enchanting effects, but the
explanations or "facts" it comes with are less so.
Judy
On Sat, 26 May 2001, Mare-Verde wrote:
> Interested to learn of the different colors one can get when playing with
> various chemicals. I, myself, have played a little more conventionally with
> toners on photographic images. In addition to the standard toners, one that
> I learned about from the Philadelphia photographer Robert Asman
which gives
> some very interesting results--particularly with chlorobromide papers
> (Ilford Warmtone, Agfa Portriga) is Edwal's Tray Cleaner. Check out some
> samples on my web site: http://perso.infonie.fr/mare-verde under the section
> for Michael McCarthy in the figure photo samples.
>
> Print is processed as normal with a shorter than normal fix (in a fixer
> without hardener). Most interesting results come when Tray Cleaner is
> painted onto print rather than submerging the entire print. The Tray
> Cleaner reacts with the silver remaining in the paper and begins to
> transform it. Depending on the strength and age of the mixture (I've been
> using 1 part tray cleaner to 8 parts water) you will begin to see areas
> change from black to a bright orange. I try not to let the print become too
> orange but rather to create a bit of a split tone effect leaving some areas
> untouched. Once you think you've got what you like you rinse the print off
> until the yellow residue has disappeared and then place the print back in a
> developer to watch the colors change. The bright orange disappears and
> becomes much less garish. You can get greens, reds, yellows and a shiny
> silver.
>
> I believe Robert said the best results come with the Chlorobromide papers
> and a developer than contains metol (I don't have my notes handy but this
> would include the ilford developer and Kodak Polymax-but not Dektol).
> Another thing which I've found helpful is to add a little old fix to the
> tray cleaner. And it works best for me when there's some loss silver in the
> mixture. The process makes your white borders pretty messy but seems to be
> as archival as any other processing.
>
> Ciao!
> Michael McCarthy
> ........................................................
> Photography, Art & Culture Web Site at:
> http://perso.infonie.fr/mare-verde
> ........................................................
>
>
> ----------
> >From: Juan Riera <jriera_@hotmail.com>
> >To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> >Subject: Re: re:chemigram
> >Date: Sat, May 26, 2001, 11:12 AM
> >
>
> > This is ok:
> > http://www.cchem.berkeley.edu/~wljeme/Chapt6.html
> >
> > Best wishes,
> > Juan
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jean Burdett <mailto:jburdett@chariot.net.au>
> > To: alt-photo-process-l <mailto:alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> > Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 8:32 AM
> > Subject: re:chemigram
> >
> > Judy, thanks for the reference for the Cordier article. I am intending to
> > produce relatively conventional chemigrams making use of light,but also
> > wish to try a variation, where a silver gelatin image is produced without
> > light. I could then combine these elements within images.
> >
> > Christian, sorry i didn't respond to your question earlier. I hope this
> > may be of some help. At http://www.cchem.berkley.edu/wljeme/chapt6htm.
> > There are instructions for producing arange of colours on black and white
> > chemicals on the unexposed sections of paper by placing chemicals including
> > thioucyanate on the surface of the paper as it is exposed. While this
> > method can be used as a toning effect, it can be used to paint an image,
> > using different combinations using different to produce colours.I
> > understand the colour is largely determined by ph. This is the method
> > Dominic Lam uses. I have ordered a stabiliser containing thioucyanate to
> > try this method. A range of earthy colours can be produced by applying
> > different combinations of developer, stopbath, and fixer, seperately or
> > combined, onto photographic paper and placing in the sun. I believe this is
> > the method Phil windsor (unsure about the spelling) uses. I used to have
> > an adress for a large collection of his images,but seemed to have lost the
> > link. I would apreciate any help finding it again.
> >
> > I personally am experimenting with applying household
> > chemicals(water,bleach,lemon juice,m.s.g., vinegar) and conventional
> > photochemicals to fixed and unfixed paper. i also achieve arange of blues
> > by exposing paper to light and then fix without use of developer.The idea
> > would be to use a contact print, to produce an outline, and then fill in
> > with colour. Finances allowing, I may try using copper etching methods to
> > produce a large stamp which would be used for applying the outline using
> > photochemicals as ink. also i have used wax to chemically protect regions
> > of paper. i dont know if any of that helps.
> >
> > Birdie.
> >
> >
>
>
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