From: R Pyle (foto.alt@lycos.com)
Date: 09/06/01-03:46:32 PM Z
To add my 2 cents to this issue..
Presoaking is really optional for the modern films most of us use. Ilford specifically recommends against presoaking because they say the "wetting agent" built into their films that is intended to facilitate the quick and even spreading of the developer when poured into the tank or tube, will be washed out in presoaking.
That said, I started using presoaking when developing 35mm film and all of my development times are based upon presoaking. It has worked fine for me for years. I recently started doing 120 roll film development in tanks and use presoaking, again after testing for proper development times, etc.
However, for 4x5 and larger sheet film, I use BTZS and do not presoak, as suggested by Phil Davis, the inventor/developer of these tubes. (I believe Phil said he tested both methods, and found no difference). Again, my testing for development time (for sheet films) was done without presoaking.
I have been very pleased with the results of both methods of developing, and those good results are based on testing with the process you use.
This is a rather long winded discussion, but the bottom line is that one should use presoaking if one has done their development time tests using presoaking, etc.
Many will swear by one method or another, but that is based upon their experience (and I assume tests) and thus are as valid as any.
Hope this helps.
BobP
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DATE: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 13:54:27 From: Shannon Stoney <shannonstoney@earthlink.net> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Eric wrote:
> A 5 minute presoak is necessary for all films and > formats.
I always did this for 35mm film and 120 film, but when I got my combiplan I stopped doing it, because the directions that came with it said it wasn't necessary. I haven't noticed any problems. Similarly, I just went to the BTZS site where they show you how to use the BTZS tubes, and the directions don't include a pre-soak. (Also they tell you to stop and fix in trays rather than in the tubes.) I wonder if people have experimented with both ways and concluded that actually a pre-soak is needed with the tubes. Also I wonder why the makers of the tubes suggest stopping and fixing in trays rather than in the tubes?
--shannon
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