RE: Mercury Halide Exposure How to..

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From: Leyba, Matt (MLeyba@Denverpost.com)
Date: 08/20/02-04:20:06 PM Z


I don't use a vacuum frame, but here is how I use that type of light. I have
my unit in a seperate room from where I coat my paper. I leave it on during
the entire print session. After coating I carry my contact frame with the
open side against my chest to keep the light off the image and then quickly
slide it under the light. I used to cover the the image area with an empty
black film bag, but found it made no difference. I just don't think the few
seconds of fall off light that hits the image during my short transport
hurts anything. My only problem is wandering off for a minute during my
exposures and forgeting when I put the print under. I'm always trying to do
too many things at once. I would think you could just be quick about it, the
same way each time if you can, and get consistant results.

----------------------------
Matt Leyba

> ----------
> From: Robert Newcomb
> Reply To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
> Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 9:27 AM
> To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
> Subject: Mercury Halide Exposure How to..
>
> Hello,
> I know their has been much discussion about mercury halide exposure
> units and blacklight fluorescent exposure units on this list...and yes I
>
> have read the archives and Sandy Kings very informative article on this
> subject. But i don't seem to find any information on the real world
> printing ie: how to deal with the warm up aspects of homemade ( without
> light integrators) mercury halide exposure.
> If the light has to be on and warm up to full brightness, how do you put
>
> the negative and light sensitive paper in your vacuum frame? Is it with
>
> the light on and just be quick about it? If you turn off the light
> during loading the frame, then you have to wait for the lamp to cool off
>
> before restarting it and then it has to warm up again... Seems like it
> all goes in a circle.
>
> Thanks for your imput,
> Robert Newcomb
>
>
>
>
>


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