lrryr@attbi.com
Date: 08/22/02-10:18:10 AM Z
Patricia,
Dan's book is a great reference, and started all of this
after all.
If you need density's of 1.3 or less then the C80 is the
very best IMO. I thought this was due to the inks used
but I found out yesterday, and verified, that the C80's
black ink doesnt dry on glossy media, so if you choose a
glossy media in the printer dialog it doesnt use the
black ink at all. The result is the most well behaved
correction curve I've seen yet, at a max density of 1.3
or so. And it's a 2880 printer so the printer artifacts
are minimized. I put a curve for pictorico up on the web
at:
http://home.attbi.com/~lrryr/digneg.html
This gives me the best negatives yet, by far. I'm
printing POP ziatypes with gold chloride as a
contrasting agent.
If you need more density than that you can select a
matte media in the printer driver and the black ink will
kick in, resulting in density's of 2.8 or so max, but
with a wild curve to rope in the dense parts of the
negative. I'll add a curve or two for that to my web
page this weekend. I've always gotten posterization in
the dense values if it's pushed too far however, the
thing to do there is use Dan's colorization methods, in
which case a 1280 makes more sense so you can take
advantage of all the work Dan has done already. BTW,
Epson has a $100 mail in rebate on the 1280 going on
right now.
In the last week or so Mike Kravit has been very
successful using a 1280 with the Colorbyte rip, which is
the only one I know of where the pictorico has actually
been profiled. This is much better than applying curves
to straighten out the damage done by a printer driver
that does the wrong thing for pictorico in the first
place. Downside is the rip is $500 per printer.
Larry
> Larry-
> I believe this is what I'm looking for.
> Would Dan Burkholder's book be my best reference to get started making
> negatives?
> Would the printer manual be of help as well?
> P
>
> >>> lrryr@attbi.com 08/21/02 05:52PM >>>
> Be sure to get a model with 2880 dpi (Epson 1280), the
> improvement over the 1440 models is very noticable. If
> you want to go inexpensive and 8.5" wide is enough then
> the Epson C80 is an excellent choice, someone was
> dumping them on ebay a short while ago for ~$100.
>
> Larry
> > Everything (art & the theory discussed here) is something and has
> > value.
> > I have been happy to read every email I have received on the list.
> >
> > Mark,
> > I am not looking for anything larger than 13 x19. Any specific
> > recommendations?
> > P
> >
> >
> > >>> Ender100@aol.com 08/21/02 03:22PM >>>
> > My guess is that Van Dyke and Cyan digital negatives would be done
> much
> > like
> > platinum, but with a Photoshop curve that is tuned to each
> process...
> > then
> > fine tuned to how you do that process, the paper you use, what you
> > expose it
> > with, etc... all those little variables that make alt such a
> wonderful
> >
> > challenge.
> >
> > How big a negative do you want to make? Lots of the desktop
> printers
> > will go
> > up to 13 x 19... do you need larger?
> >
> > Mark Nelson
> > In a message dated 8/21/02 2:32:30 PM, preed@kumc.edu writes:
> >
> > << No kidding!
> > How about some links to references on the web on how to make your
> own,
> > enlarged half tone negatives for cyan & van dyke printing and what
> is
> > the best inexpensive printer on the market to make larger digital
> > negatives for the same processes? >>
> >
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