From: Scott Wainer (smwbmp@starpower.net)
Date: 12/29/02-11:43:19 PM Z
Thanks to everybody who remarked on my problems. Hope you're having
wonderful holidays.
About the cyanotypes,
I tried 6-7 different papers that I had quick access to with Ware's formula
and experienced the same problems with all of them. To make sure that it was
the paper/chemistry, I mixed a batch of traditional cyanotype chemistry per
the Christopher James book and it worked beautifully with all the papers
(even the ones that were double gelatin-sized).
I did find that with my "bullet-proof" lith negs the exposure times run
about 30-45 minutes with a bank of 14 BL tubes about 3-4 inches from the
print frame. I'm currently working on getting thinner lith negs using Liam's
reversal process which should speed up exposures drastically.
About Digital Negs,
I just gave up on Dan Burkholder's method, after two years of experimenting.
I reverted to using this process:
1. Scan as grayscale (if from film) or change mode to grayscale (if
from digital camera).
2. Adjust the image using curves/levels til it looks right.
3. Bump the contrast (subjectively using curves/levels) in the shadows
and mid-tones for the printing process used.
4. Invert the image from a positive to a negative.
5. Print as a B&W image (using either black or color inks) on
transparency film (lie to the printer - tell it i'm printing on photo
paper).
Generally, I make 2-3 negs to get a good print, though they don't have the
same "sharpness" as lith negs.
I have found that 3M and HP transparency films result in "grainy" (gritty
might be a better word) images. I am going to try some of the Portico
transparency film and see if that makes a difference. I am also going to try
printing on photo paper and oiling or waxing to make it more transparent,
but am concerned about printing the texture of the paper fibers.
Thanks again,
Scott Wainer
smwbmp@starpower.net
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