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RE: NEGS FOR PT/PD
What does "flagellating a moribund equine quadruped" mean? Something about a
gassy horse?
My personal experience with sensitometry involved a number of 2 a.m.
darkroom sessions with a densitometer, potato chips and Wynton Kelly. My
negs and prints improved some. Then I got rid of the densitometer, went out
and shot a lot of photos, switched to pretzels and Robert Cray. My negs and
prints improved a lot. I don't know for sure if the experience with the
densitometer is what got me where I am or not. I guess what I came away with
was that when I approached the subject in simple terms my pd/pt prints
shined. When I obsessed they sucked. I know many people like to study curves
and such, that's cool, but I would rather spend any and all extra time
hauling around my axe. Maybe someday I'll switch and do the opposite. Just
not now :).
I don't know if this is appropriate for this list, but does anyone have any
11x14 holders for sale?
Mateo Leyba
Golden, Colorado
mleyba@denverpost.com
> ----------
> From: Sandy King
> Reply To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 7:53 AM
> To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
> Subject: Re: NEGS FOR PT/PD
>
>
>
> Bob Kiss wrote:
>
>
> >
> > If you have a negative with decent shadow detail and open (not
> blocked)
> >highlights that prints well on your favorite silver-gelatin paper, with
> some
> >testing, you should have no problem expanding the density range during
> the
> >interpos-to-enlarged neg process (or, if you are feeling bold, with
> direct
> >copy film) to yield a density range for any alt process you want. One
> needs
> >to know a bit of sensitometry but sometimes we, on this list, persist in
> flagellating a moribund equine quadruped.
>
>
> In making an enlarged negative either directly by reversal (as per
> the Lawless method presented in a past edition of Post-Factory
> Photography) or by the interpositive route the most important
> consideration is good shadow detail, i.e. you should start with a
> well-exposed, or even slighly over-exposed negative. You can work
> with a negative that gives blocked highlights on the silver print
> perhaps this most likely indicates over-development for silver
> printing that may be just fine for one of the alternative processes
> that requires a negative with a high DR. I have personally had more
> success with the Lawless reversal method than with the interpositive
> route. However, the interpostive method offers more control.
>
> BTW, there is an article in the current issue of View Camera Magazine
> on making enlarged negatives with interpositives using the Freestyhle
> APH(S) film. In the article the author writes that Freestyle actually
> sells two stocks of this film, one made in the US and the other in
> Japan. He recommends that you ask for the Japanese stock since it
> contains more silver and is better for making enlarged negatives.
>
> I am still trying to figure out what Bob means by sensitometry and
> "flagellating a moribund equine quadruped". Sensitometry is really
> fairly simple to learn, and very easy to apply once learned. Some
> people avoid sensitometry and point out that one does not need to
> know anything about it to make good prints, which is of course true.
> However, in its place we see a lot of personal systems for exposure
> and development control that appear to me to be a lot more
> complicated than the sensitometry that these people are trying to
> avoid.
>
> Sandy King
>
>
> --
>
>