From: Christina Z. Anderson (zphoto@montana.net)
Date: 10/06/02-09:42:41 PM Z
Yes it is true. It was found to be usable on paper by Lumiere and Seyewitz
in 1925, but was originally used to color film. I was thinking that if it
were on film it wouldn't be that big of a deal if there was minimal stain in
the clears, especially if you took three of different colors together and
sandwiched them to approximate color for the people at that time.
I have to say it has been a failure as far as I am concerned also.
Today I look at my images, and they are bleeding into the borders a brownish
stain. Oh, but that is only on the rhodamine ones, and I know red is
seriously unfast as a dye in general unless it is heat treated. I mean,
they look quite interesting in that they are brilliantly colored, but all
that work for a print that barely has unstained highlights is kinda dumb.
I will try the sulfite as Judy has suggested...I have more tests to do
such as leave them in the sun to see if they are lightfast so maybe
something else will come up, but I was wracking my brain, wrecking prints
left and right to try some new method.
One thing I did find has possibilities is that if you overprint an
image one stop darker, and then bleach and dye mordant, and then leave in
the fixer (rapid) for a while, it solarizes the darks a funky yellowy
orange.
I do have formulae for several different clearing baths, but chose to
test the permanganate/sulfuric acid one first. As I said, don't bother. It
doesn't clear the highlights well and removes more color than it clears in
my experience.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Liam Lawless" <liam.lawless@blueyonder.co.uk>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Sunday, October 06, 2002 9:30 PM
Subject: RE: dye mordanting
> Chris,
>
> I tried dye mordanting a few years ago and failed miserably, my problem
> being inability to clear whites. But I was discussing it with Dunstan
> Perera recently and his opinion was that it was intended for use on film,
> not paper, and was once widely used by the motion picture industry. Could
> this be true?
>
>
>
> Liam
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Judy Seigel [mailto:jseigel@panix.com]
> Sent: 07 October 2002 03:49
> To: Alt Photo List
> Subject: Re: dye mordanting
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, 6 Oct 2002, Christina Z. Anderson wrote:
>
> > Dear Lists,
> > My questions: I have yet been able to get the highlights to clear
> > completely. Neither has Nate Apkon. I have used the permanganate clear
> > bath which in my opinion does more to decolorize the dyes than it does
> clear
> > the highlights. I have used ammonia and no budge. I have used hot
water.
> > Nope. I have rinsed the print overnight, like for 3/4 of a day. Nope.
I
> > have found, certainly, that RC will clear faster, and my prints are
> *almost*
> > there, but so far my conclusion is that the process, without the
clearing
> of
> > the highlights, resembles Berg color Toners, and that route would be so
> much
> > easier.
> > Is there anyone out there who has successfully cleared highlights
and
> > how?
>
> Chris,
>
> I've never done dye mordanting, so this could be utterly useless, but I've
> done clearing baths where option of potassium permanganate, sodium sulfite
> or sodium bisulfite was given (usually for dichromate stain).... I found
> the potassium permanagate less efficient than either of the others. As I
> recall a 10% solution (?) of those was called for, but also worked with
> weaker. This may of course be apples & oranges, but possibly worth a try.
>
> Judy
>
>
>
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