Re: dye mordanting

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From: Christina Z. Anderson (zphoto@montana.net)
Date: 10/07/02-09:41:06 AM Z


Thanks, Gordon, I have all those ingredients so it should be possible. I
did use the permanganate bleach (boy is permanganate a glorious color--rich
red violet eggplant) but not with the bisulfite after. I will try this at
your and Judy's suggestion.
     After saturday I was ready to give up on the process (actually, the
last couple times I have done it I have said that) but I seem to never be
able to let something alone so back I'll go. I just hope I am not beating a
dead horse, and if there is someone out there who has been successful I
would feel so much better.
     BTW Jon and anyone else who teaches, I would never teach this process
to a class. Mordancage, yes; you only have to clean up little bits of black
gelatin that float everywhere. This, if you get a SPECK of the dye in the
atmosphere it is everywhere, staining, messy, gross. The bleaching part is
much less smelly than the mordancage bleach but the dyeing part is so messy
I could never trust a class of 14 to not ruin a darkroom and their clothes.
I also found out (the hard way) I had a minute hole in my rubber gloves,
because my hands have been brilliant pink for several days.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon J. Holtslander" <holtsg@duke.usask.ca>
To: "Alt Photo List" <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 12:02 AM
Subject: Re: dye mordanting

> Here's a bleaching formula from photographic facts and formula's, under
> the stain removing section, for bleaching and redevoloping a stained
> negative (to remove the stain I assume)
>
> It recomends treating the film in a formalin hardener for two or three
> minutes
>
> from the book:
>
> Formalin hardener (Kodak sh-1)
> formalin, 37% formaldehyde solution 10cc
> Sodium carbonate 5 g
> water to make 1000cc
>
> Wash for five minutes and the bleach in:
>
> Stain remover (Kodakk s-6)
>
> stock soln A
> pottasiun permanganate 5.3 g
> water to make 1000 cc
>
> stock soln B
> sodiun chloride (table salt) 75.0 g
> Sulfuric acid C.P. (concentrated) 16 cc
> water to make 1000 cc
>
> Use equal parts of solutions A and B, which should be mixed only at the
> time of use, as they keep well in seperate solutions but not in
> combination. Be sure that the potassium permangante is thoroughly
> dissolved as any particles of it out of solution will cause blemishes on
> the negative.
>
> Bleach for three to four mintues and the remove the brown stain by first
> rinsing the bleached film in water and placing it in a 1 percent solution
> of sodium bisulfite. Wash for three of four minutes/
>
> I assume you don't want to do this part, it goes on to say...
>
> /and expose to a strong light until the white image turns purple.
> Redevelop in a non-staining developer suach as amidol without the use of
> bromide.
>
> This book also list a variety of bleaches used with bromoil, but its
> getting late :) Let me know if you want these.
>
> Gord
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> Gordon J. Holtslander Dept. of Biology
> holtsg@duke.usask.ca 112 Science Place
> http://duke.usask.ca/~holtsg University of Saskatchewan
> Tel (306) 966-4433 Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> Fax (306) 966-4461 Canada S7N 5E2
> ---------------------------------------------------------
>


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