From: Ken Watson (watsok@frii.com)
Date: 09/17/02-09:16:09 PM Z
Mac,
Nitric acid in the developer is crazy.... I need to try this sometime;<) I
would agree about dangerous chemistry if this was required. Most wet heads
use acetic acid, about 14 ml to 500 ml of water. This is about the same
strength as household vinegar.
I know some literature calls for Potassium Cyanide as a fixer. This is an
option as Hypo works well.
Collodion will not work under most enlargers. In full sun and when wet the
exposure is about f16 and three seconds. Enlargers are a long way away from
the suns intensity in general and about a light year away from the UV / high
end blue light that these old process's love. AND on top of this you want
to let the collodion dry and expose it. I do not know for sure but I THINK
the collodion is some 25 times less sensitive dry than if wet, if it works
at all. Dry, it may work more like POP so if you can get some POP paper,
try to print that with an enlarger then you will get a good idea of the
magnitude of the exposure required.
If you are successful let us all know!!
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "filmpro" <filmpro@mac.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 8:22 PM
Subject: Re: SAFER: MODERN AMBROTYPES & THE WEB
> >Mac,
> >I wonder at your question. The developer for wet plate is vinegar and
> >ferrous sulfate. This ferrous sulfate is an Iron supplement for your
garden.
> >Also mixed in is touch of paint thinner known as denatured alcohol along
> >with a lot of water. It smells and is sometimes referred to as old cider
> >and nails.
> >Nothing dangerous here in the big scheme of things.
> >
> >For collodion emulsion they are the same as for modern photography.
> >
> >Ken
>
>
> The formula in keepers says you need Nitric Acid in the developer? Also,
>
> If i wanted to let the plate dry after sensitizing. And later 24 hours,
> expose under an enlarger, would it still work? i realize sensitivity
> would be lost but should work?
>
> thanks
>
>
> Mac
>
>
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