Re: Bank o' BLs: Spacing?

About this list Date view Thread view Subject view Author view

From: Dave Rose (cactuscowboy@attbi.com)
Date: 02/07/03-09:14:11 AM Z


I'd prefer to be addressed as "Cactus Cowboy" or "Dave Rose". "Cactus Rose"
is a name better suited for a womans dress shop specializing in western
fashions!

To construct my exposure unit I started with (4) 24" dual-tube fixtures. I
pulled all of the components out of the metal housings and discarded the
housings. (This was actually less expensive than purchasing all the
components seperately). The bi-pin holders were attached to the inside of a
wooden box, positioned to provide 1/2" spacing between bulbs. Since I did
not use the metal housings, it was necessary to attach a large piece of
sheet metal behind the bulbs. I agree that it would have been more
expedient and simpler to have just mounted the four complete fixtures into a
box.

By building it the way I did, I realize three advantages:
1. Weight reduction, as noted by Sandy.
2. The box is shallower, thus reducing bulk.
3. Ballasts are mounted outside the wooden frame, thus greatly reducing
heat build-up inside the unit.

My exposure unit is mounted on the wall in my darkroom. A homemade vacuum
easel is hinged onto the bottom of the unit. It swings open and a chain
holds it at a horizontal position for easy loading.

Best regards,
Cactus Cowboy
Big Wonderful Wyoming

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sandy King" <sanking@clemson.edu>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: Bank o' BLs: Spacing?

> Cactus Rose wrote:
>
>
> >Assuming you're handy with tools, I'd recommend building 'from scratch'
> >using components assembled inside a wooden frame.
>
> If by building "from scratch" Dave means assembling dual-tube holders
> inside a wooden frame I agree with your recommendation. If by scratch
> he means assembling the unit with bi-pin holders inside a wooden
> frame, then I think it is not worth the trouble --- and the wiring is
> much more complicated. And the only advantage is, possibly, some
> slight saving in weight. I have built and used both types and in my
> opinion there is absolutely nothing to be gained by building with the
> bi-pin holders.
>
> > It's very important to
> >have a large piece of sheet metal immediately behind the bulbs - they
won't
> >work without it.
>
>
> Not really. If you construct with the dual-tube units there is no
> need for sheet metal behind the bulbs. Just be sure to connect to a
> power outlet with a ground, and ground all of the dual units together
> to this outlet and the unit will work fine. But you should ground all
> electrical units anyway!!
>
>
> > Drill some ventilation holes into your wooden frame to let
> >heat escape. I installed the ballasts on the outside of my frame, that
> >helps reduce heat buildup considerably. The interior dimension of my
frame
> >is 16.5" x 24", with .5" spacing between each of the eight bulbs.
>
> You definitely need the ventilation holes, and even better in my
> opinion, put a small 3-4" diameter fan on one side of the exposing
> unit. This will eliminate heat build up.
>
>
> >
> >Stay away from shop lights and other cheap components. Buy quality
ballasts
> >and fixtures and you'll have no problems.
>
> You can buy good dual-tube units from most home supply stores today
> with either magnetic or electronic ballast. You pay a little more for
> the electronic ballast, but it is far superior.
>
> Sandy King


About this list Date view Thread view Subject view Author view

This archive was generated by hypermail 2.1.5 : 03/04/03-09:19:08 AM Z CST