From: Yu rei (nanocrystals2003@yahoo.co.jp)
Date: 07/23/03-01:00:02 AM Z
Nigel, (for David),
Interesting.
Some questions:
Is the smaller paper and the larger paper the same, and if
so are they from the same stock?
If it works fine for the smaller sheets, and they are
truely identical with the larger sheets, and you are (he
is) processing in the same trays etc., then the problem
must be comming from a difference related to the size of
the paper. Things that come to mind are a longer wet time
due to the larger size requiring more time for both
coating and drying... perhaps the coating on the larger
size is not drying evenly by the time the susequent coat
is being applied.
Also, has the gelatin deterioated due to being held warm
for long times? What happens if now, you go back to the
smaller sizes? does it still work perfectly as before?
More likely, it is possible that the repeated applications
of gelatin are in fact causing a weaker bond. (gelatin -
gelatin bonding is weaker than gelatin - paper bonding)
In my experience, I have rarely needed hardener for paper
prints. I have never had any problem with friling
with any commercial or home made emulsion.
It is important, however, to make sure you are using a
neutral paper.
Exactly which paper are you using?
I am not sure, are these toners acidic ?
> We are aware that we are using more than the
> recommended amount of Liquid
> Light per print but...reducing
> the amount of liquid light produces a poorer print
> (blacks etc).
D-max will only increase up to a point with reperted
application, what if you:
1. give the paper a weak gel. solution subbing, or not at
all if it has been presubbed (and if it is a good quality
watercolor paper, it probably has) w/wo hardener.
2. eliminate the two 50% coats
3. Coat heavier than before, but with straight emulsion
4. If needed, recoat.
Let me know how it goes!
Ray
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