Re: Liquitex

--- pete <temperaprint@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> Loris,
>
> Thanks for your kind comments. Ed Buffaloe has very
> genorously published a
> new revised update on the process including further
> pictures illustrating
> the felexabilty inherant in this process.
>
> http://unblinkingeye.com

Yes, I noticed it right after I asked about Liquitex.
Congrats & thanks for your publication. Thanks to Ed
Buffaloe too; unblinkingeye is very first site I look
when I'm searching something on photography technique.

> ...
> Color Choices by Stephen
> Quiller
> Watson Guptill 1989 ISBN 0-8230-0696-4.He has a
> fantastic Colour Wheel which
> is the basic starting point of all colour mixing

Thanks for the tip, will definitely look for it!

> complete a print in three to four hours. The order
> of printing is:
>
> * Black ? ? [mars} 1+6 one coat
> * Yellow ? [cad lemon] 1+7 two coats
> * Magenta [acra ] 1+8 two coats
> * Cyan ? ? [phalo blue] 1+15 one or two coats
> * Sometimes a Complementary further 1+8 one or
> two coats of burnt umber
> or emerald green using the black printer.

Thanks! I can see that Hellena uses a different yellow
than yours; she uses the transparent one (Yellow Light
Hansa), you use the 830 I presume. (Actually it
doesn't matter anymore because I ordered the colors
from DickBlick)

> One last point: I prefer to clear the dichromate
> stain with a 1% solution
> sulphuric. Acid drain clear works just as well.

Ok, no-problem... I use sulfuric acid for reversal
processing, I have it and I'm familiar with it.

> > 3) I noticed a Liquitex product called "airbrush
> medium", do you use it
> > (or any other additive) to further thin your
> colors?
>
> No need to use it ! you will only be adding acrylic
> to the mix which could
> give problems

Ok, thanks for the warning. Time to struggle now... (I
have ordered casein too, will try Guido's variation to
your technique)
Received on Mon Apr 19 13:27:21 2004