Thanks Sam,
Please, I just care about very high standards and "with too little salt you
may have the wrong taste" and obviously no shortcuts for high standards.
I agree with "gum is an artistic process where expression...." but the
artist must express what he wants not what it comes out by chance, you
follow me?
What is your website address?
Thanks
Giovanni
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: XCAXZOWCONEUQZAAFXISHJEXXIMQZUIVOT
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Gum dichromate issue
> Hi Giovanni,
>
> If you really want "accurate" colors, I suggest doing Ilforchrome or
C-prints, or even "Giclee". With gum
> you will not find information that will give you accuracy unless you spend
a lot of time working it out in
> your own lab. If there were such information out there, everybody would be
making color-correct, and
> boring, gum images.
>
> The books on the subject all deal with commercial methods of truthful
reproduction of colors, but gum
> is an artistic process, where expression is more important thant mere
reproduction. So I would
> recommend doing your own tests instead of relying on what someone else
might have written.
>
> I've always believed that it's better to learn with "elbow grease" and
take theory or someone else's
> writing with "a grain of salt". It's good to do some reading, but there
are no shortcuts.
>
> Sam Wang
> >
> > Wrom: QNQEMSFDULHPQQWOYIY
> > Date: 2004/08/10 Tue AM 12:23:59 EDT
> > To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> > Subject: Re: Gum dichromate issue
> >
> > Thanks Etienne,
> > No, I do not have problems with the registragion and I print on 16x20
canvas
> > size pictures of 14x11, I size the paper and I am on the limit of
problems.
> > I do my threee negatives with Photoshop and I print full color
confortably,
> > I am trying to learn and read more to avoid possible mistakes.
> > Most of my errors come from specific pictures so the proper negative is
an
> > issue, sometimes I change the curve factor (on photoshop which is the
> > contrast in a conventional film) on the Red negative but again I am
> > guessing. Why? I read somewhere that it was the most important of the
three
> > negatives. Why? Is the first I use to print, then I go with the Blue
(Yellow
> > pigment) and I start guessing the solar exposure time and finally I do a
> > third guess with the magenta pigment to "see" the picture.
> > The other issue is the pigment, remember "pure colors" do not exist, how
> > should this be dealt or handle in reality?
> > Giovanni
>
>
>
Received on Tue Aug 10 09:04:38 2004
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