Re: Rockland Halo Chrome

From: Jack Fulton ^lt;jefulton1@comcast.net>
Date: 02/18/04-12:31:56 AM Z
Message-id: <25C46722-61DC-11D8-8BA3-00306572A490@comcast.net>

I cannot let this slip by. When one used Halochrome™ by Rockland, one
can use it two ways.
        1. you can work with a fully fixed image and turn the black portions
of the
                print into a plated silver or gold color. They recommend using an
image
                which of great contrast so as to intensify the toned aspect while
also being
                slightly less exposed than normal.
        2. you can use an image that is developed but NOT fixed and you print
it so
                it's a bit darker than normal to it will stand out against the
silvered background.

When you do the latter, you must use the Halochrome™ in your enclosed
darkroom. Yes, if you work at night you can bring it out and into a
perhaps better ventilated area. The Halochrome™ solution is diluted
with seven (7) parts of water and it is (in my mind) still a very
strong ammonia solution. If one works in their closed darkroom with not
too good ventilation (such as mine) it will DEFINITELY mess with your
nose. Period. No bones about it. However, some folks don't smell well.
I had a friend whose wife made him change the diapers of their two
children because he could not smell.

Since I am onto this, Richard Knoppow had good suggestion to work with
an alkaline fix. There is a nice one by Photographer's Formulary or,
I'll bet Ryuji has a great formula.
I don't know about adding the correct hardener but I'd go for Potassium
Alum. Ryuji's magic liquid hardener might well be smart too. But, the
print made from the #1 method above should be fixed.

Cheers
Jack F.

Jack, I was toning 11x14 prints, with 10cc of the toner in 100 cc of
> water... of that 10 cc, I'd guess about 1/2 cc *TOPS* was ammonia. 1/2
> cc of ammonia won't even remove warts, let alone a whole nose.
Received on Wed Feb 18 00:36:35 2004

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