Re: Silver chloride contact printing papers - not AZO

Also Forte Polywarmtone and Ilford regular and warmtone.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Liam Lawless" <liam.lawless@blueyonder.co.uk>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 10:40 PM
Subject: RE: Silver chloride contact printing papers - not AZO

> Thanks, Etienne, that could be very useful. A few warm-tone papers used
> to give good print-outs straight from the box - Kentmere Art Classic and
> Kentona are a couple I remember; I think Oriental Seagull was another.
> But that was maybe 10 years ago, and I think many paper emulsions have
> been "revised" since then. How would you describe the images you get on
> Azo and Kodabromide?
>
>
>
> Liam
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Etienne Garbaux [mailto:photographeur@softhome.net]
> Sent: 29 January 2004 02:58
> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> Subject: RE: Silver chloride contact printing papers - not AZO
>
>
> > Judy wrote:
> >
> > I'll add, though that DOP can be made into POP with a chloride
> > bleach... I think Chris Anderson, or maybe it was Liam, or both(?)
> > have done that too... You bleach it back with hydrochloric acid & (as
> > I recall) a bichromate bleach... and just leave it in the sun or
> > strong light and forget about it... You think nothing is happening,
> > but in a few days you have a brown tone quite tactile photograph.
> > Could probaably gold tone it too, if you felt the urge.
> >
> >
> > Richard Knoppow wrote:
> >
> > Somewhere, in the all too distant past, I also had instructions for
> > making POP out of DOP. Mainly I remember that it was treated in a
> > solution that included silver nitrate. I can no longer remember where
> > I saw this but have a vague clue that I can follow up.
> >
> >
> > Liam quoted L.C. Clerc and elaborated:
> >
> > Well, I tried once with 0.5% silver nitrate and (probably) a
> > chlorobromide paper. As I recall, the silver bath had no effect at
> > all, compared with an untreated sheet. As I understand these things,
> > the free silver nitrate permits much greater image densities from
> > printing out, by combining with the halogen liberated by light
> > exposure of the original silver halides to form more silver chloride
> > or bromide as printing proceeds. I'd hazard a guess that the problem
> > is that the original silver salts of the development paper just aren't
>
> > sensitive enough to UV, their speed in this respect (I guess) having
> > been determined by the emulsification process. Maybe develop-out
> > papers were different in Clerc's day, but it might be interesting for
> > someone with time on his (her?) hands to try again with a developer.
>
>
> Maybe the Clerc recipe is a typo. Think albumen. I have had acceptable
> to good results using AgNO3 solutions in the 5% range, usually with a
> bit of citric, tartaric, or acetic acid. Float the paper (emulsion
> down, for those of you not familiar with salted paper or albumen), don't
> immerse it. Make sure you use "real" DOP, not the developer-incorporated
> stuff that so often passes for photo paper these days. I've used
> Kodabromide (sadly,
> discontinued) and Azo successfully this way.
>
> Best regards,
>
> etienne
>
>
Received on Thu Jan 29 06:43:23 2004