RE: gum redevelopment

Giovanni,

My use of Clorox as it relates to that post is in a diluted form for the
purpose of affecting the last layer of gum, either to remove it, fade it, or
change the contrast. I should add that frequently I "fix" a number of
layers with the use of acrylic varnish, Krylon spray, hardened gelatin, etc.
This allows me to add further layers, and usually be able to remove said
layers without harming what is under the fixative.

As to what (I think) you are addressing, you are quite correct. Soaking a
gum photo in Clorox will usually remove the gum, the pigment, and the size.
I've also found that Clorox will remove whatever quality in the paper that
makes it water resistant. Meaning it tends to get really soft and prone to
tearing.

Keith

-----Original Message-----
From: Giovanni Di Mase [mailto:gdimaseu@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2004 10:07 PM
To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Subject: Re: gum redevelopment

Keith,
I found out that I can't use properly again the paper treated with Clorox.
It just does not print reliable.
What about you?
Giovanni
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Gerling" <Keith@gumphoto.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2004 12:03 AM
Subject: RE: gum redevelopment

> Chris,
>
> I've never found it possible to redevelop a print with water, hot or cold,
> after it has dried. And believe me, I have tried.
>
> On the other hand, I do occasionally use ammonia and Clorox to whack away
at
> the gum on a dry print. The results vary, as you can imagine.
>
> Keith
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christina Z. Anderson [mailto:zphoto@uslink.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2004 7:46 PM
> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> Subject: gum redevelopment
>
>
> Hi all,
> List has been somewhat quiet as of late, and since I'm not worried
> about editioning until I get as famous as Ansel Adams (aw gees, ya betcha
as
> Minnesotans say), I thought I'd broach a different subject.
> How 'bout a poll to all you gum printers out there:
> It is sometimes suggested that after a print has dried completely,
and
> even after some time, you can resoak and redevelop it, if needs be.
> Demachy said that the suggestion to do this is really a half truth,
as,
> for one, the shadows are more soluble than the highlights in this state,
> etc. etc.
> My poll: how many of you use this technique? If so, are you using
> warm water and/or an alkali like ammonia or bleach? And how long after the
> print has been dried (e.g.1 day vs 2 weeks or whatever)? How often do you
> use it/how good a suggestion do you consider it?
> I personally find the suggestion promises more than it delivers. It
> wouldn't be my first suggestion of choice, which is why I am interested in
> hearing from those of you having success with this troubleshooting method.
> With ammonia (15ml to a liter of warm water on a month old print) it does
> solubilize the gum, but not as effectively as I would hope.
> Chris
>
>
Received on Wed Jul 7 21:42:04 2004