Re: bromoil, anyone?

Chris,

You need to get a copy of Gene Laughter's book Bromoil 101. He has
all kinds of solutions for brushes, papers, etc. using modern
materials. This is a self-published book that is/was sold through
Bostick and Sullivan.

Sandy

>Good morning all,
> I know this is hard to believe I can think about something other
>than gum, but this week I got the hairbrained idea to use bromoil as
>my technical research project for a printmaking class. I was
>inspired to do so after seeing Tom Micklin's prints in the traveling
>portfolio (so Tom, please chime in here). The hairbrained part was
>deciding to produce an edition of 10 different prints for the
>critique.
>
> Let me say that I have read about bromoil extensively,
>researching it and condensing a workflow for my Experimental
>Workbook, in which is my "quickie" bromoil method. I tested it way
>back when, but no students ever chose to do bromoil, and I was not a
>printmaker at the time which I now am. Thus I am a bromoil neophyte.
>
> I mixed my own bromoil solution and it worked great. This is good.
>
> First mistake: I knew that Ilford papers are resistant to
>bleaching, but did not know if this resistance would entail a longer
>bleach etch time in the bromoil solution. Silly me--just because it
>resists bleaching does NOT mean it resists etching. I bleach etched
>for 16 minutes, and all of those prints (11x14's,) delaminated. It
>was like bromoiling on top of a mordancage. I was NOT happy. I
>should have known this because Ilford is a WONDERFUL paper for
>mordancage--it veils very quickly.
>
> I then reprinted all, using these papers: Ilford MGIV matte,
>Ilford MGIV warmtone pearl, Forte Polywarmtone RC, Bergger VCCB. I
>found out some stuff in my mistakes. For one, Forte RC was by far
>the best! I am surprised. It is glossy, too. Next was the Ilford
>MGIV matte.
>
> Question: what are your fave papers, you bromoilists? Not the
>special bromoil papers, but regular ones. Do you use glossy or matte?
>
> Two, since I ruined the first batch of prints and had to redo
>the whole process with a time limit facing me, I found that an 8
>minute etch was plenty sufficient, and that I could go right from
>the etch bath to inking up with no problem. Thus it wasn't really
>necessary to dry mount press the prints in between the bleach/etch
>bath and printing up as it is said (to make them ink up better).
>
> Question: is there a cheapy brush source anyone can recommend?
>And brush catalog number? I used rollers for this process. On
>Forte RC with rollers you can essentially get back your print to
>looking just like a photograph, which...what's the point...so I
>wanted to try a brush for my next go around. The local drugstore
>did not even know what a man's shaving brush is.
>
> One more question: do you bromoilists print one stop darker and
>duller as a general rule, or something other? Oh, and how long do
>you think a print takes to dry? I was thinking of pressing it
>between baking parchment paper in the drymount press, to prevent ink
>from getting on things.
>
> I guess what I am interested in, really, is any bromoil
>dialogue...so tawlk amungst yurselfs...your workflow, your mistakes,
>anything!
>Chris
Received on Sat Nov 13 08:50:21 2004