RE: how to make daguerreotypes

Kara,

    I won't say that you can not learn how to make daguerreotypes on your
own, but I will say that
I considered this once myself and after considerable reading about the
process I decided that there were to many important points that were too
vague and that I needed to know more about how to handle the very toxic
chemicals. I might add that my field was experimental nuclear physics and
I was somewhat familiar with certain substances like mercury; nevertheless,
considering that the
process can be dangerous, I felt I needed the guidence of an expert.
    Now let me elaborate. L.J.M. Daguerre's instruction manual can be found
in the library in the original french and in translation, but it does not
give sufficient detail. For example, when you fume the plate with iodine,
you fume it until a certain yellow color is reached. Since there are perhaps
thousands of shades of yellow, you really need an expert to show you the
correct color. Likewise,
how does one know that a plate is properly polished and buffed. There are a
lot of tricks of the trade so to speak that you can only pick up by being
taught by a master daguerreotypist.
     I would therefore strongly recommend attending a workshop. George
Eastman House used to run a daguerreotype workshop.
     The process is not dangerous if you have the proper equipment and
facilities and know what you are doing which is another argument for
attending a workshop. If you don't know how to handle
mercury, iodine and bromine you can do yourself a lot of damage. Now there
is a daguerreotype process (the Becquerel process) which does not use
mercury or bromine, but exposures are very long (20 minutes or more) and
development can take hours.
      There is a lot of expense associated with the process. Plates cost
about $30 each. You have to
build most of your equipment or pay to have it built. Two fuming boxes cost
about $1000. A steel
mercury pot might cost $200 but the heater and temperature controller costs
upwards of $600.
A commercial fume hood is about $5000 but I chose to build my own for a few
hundred dollars and a lot of work. I also wear a respirator with special
cartriges that absorb iodine, bromine and mercury vapor that cost about
$200. That may not be absolutly necessary but I feel better for it. Of
course you need a camera that will take a plate (not film holder) and some
other minor equipment.
       You may get some replys telling you quicker and cheaper ways to make
daguerreotypes but
I would adviise you to consider if these methods mght comprimise your
safety.

I hope this does not discourage you but I felt that it was important to let
you know what you are
getting into. I have always been very glad that I persued my dream of being
able to do "the first
process." Daguerreotypes have a beauty that must be seen to be appreciated
and a look that no
other process can duplicate. You can see copies of some of my dags on my web
page but you really
have to see them in person. The thrill of creating my first daguerreotype
was akin to the thrill of seeing my first silver gelatin print come up a
long time ago when I was nine years old.

In the words of the master I wish you bon chance!

Bob Schramm
Check out my web page at:

  http://www.SchrammStudio.com

>From: Kara Clark <karasclark@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>Subject: how to make daguerreotypes
>Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 17:32:43 -0400
>
>Hi. I'm new to this list so I apologize if this topic has been
>covered extensively. I really want to learn how to make
>daguerreotypes. I know there is a workshop in Montana for this, but
>unfortunately it doesn't fit into my schedule this summer. Are there
>any other workshops that offer this technique? Is this the sort of
>thing I could learn on my own, or do I really need an instructor?
>How toxic is the process?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Kara
Received on Tue Apr 26 21:22:44 2005